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Discussion Starter #1
I have read myriads of posts on the HK set up , but hoping my specific symptoms might mean something to someone. I am not completely useless with electronics, but best assume I am and speak slowly if you know the answer...


When Power and speaker connectors are plugged in to the HU I get a continuous whine form my left tweeter. If I remove the speaker connections the whine gets louder... if I remove the power no surprise, but the whine stops. The display during this time is on, but not back-lit, and nor is the red on light properly illuminated. Although the vehicle is new to me (a couple of months) I did get it working perfectly, and then one day, hey presto, whining... a couple of times in the lead up to when it started just whining the music would go really loud, before I turned it off.. I haven't been anywhere near the insides of the left door yet.

My HU was reconditioned in 2016 by GB4x4, still could have gone wrong in the mean-time though. I have inspected it inside and the resistor/ transistor that some people report as loose down under the heat sink is fine. There's evidence of someone having reworked a few of the component solder joints previously, and it's hard to tell whether some of these may be touching, but otherwise it looks reasonable.

Any smart cookies recognise any of this?

Rgds, Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I should add that the (Carin) satnav is currently disconnected. It IS working in its own pedestrian fashion but some posts had suggested disconnecting in case it was interfering with the radio. CD player works, or at least it did when the HU last worked
 

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J.A.M.E.S was the Range Rover nav system fully introduced in 1999. Very few end of run 98's had as it was a $3K option back then.

"carIn" was a Philips aftermarket kit installed by dealers.
 

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Sounds more like an amp problem. Try swapping the left door amp with one of the others and see if the whine moves. The other place to look is in the LH foorwell. As well as the multiway connection that carries cabling for the EAS amongst other things, there's an 8 or 10 way that carries the signal from the HU to the amps. Check that for corroded pins and, if you want a permanent fix, cut the connector out completely and solder the wires straight through. The Carin11 and Carin 111 systems may have been dealer fit in the US but were a factory fit option on RHD UK or Australian market cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Since I had an old JVC HU lying around I decided to use it as a test before messing around with all the door amps etc I stumbled across this plug n play harness: https://incartec.co.uk/product/Range-Rover-P38-95-99--Steering-interface. It's almost plug and play, except it arrives without instructions (helpful customer service though), and as reported on another thread the blue/ white control wire on the harness is loose and need to be tied in to the blue wire on the ISO 8 connector in order to connect to the blue/ white from the head unit and get a switched live. The only trouble is there's so much bulk to the deamplification system and steering wheel interface on the harness it's a major mission (I haven't succeeeded yet) in jamming it all in and out of the way behind the HU (I also have the carin satnav wiring to content with. But I digress... so the amps seem fine - couple of the speakers may need replacing (right tweeter esp) - I guess the original Clarion HU may need another refurb after all as perhaps it was passing a dirty command signal to the amps
 

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Lot of money just to check the door amps. Most likely cause of whine is bad earth or one side of balanced connection feeding the amp is open circuit. Left side of car is fed via the connectors behind lower left footwell panel, which hare usually corroded, and cause exactly this problem !!

FYI, The 10-way connector behind factory radio is just five balanced feeds to the door amps to remove general electrical noise. Radio to Amp earthing is via the various body ground points. Simple check is to unplug from radio & short the +ve & -ve signal wires together, which effectively mutes the amp feed. You will still need the 12V amp trigger or the amps will shut down.

Pins . . .
1 & 2 = Right Rear
3 & 4 = Right Front
5 & 6 = Left Front
7 & 8 = Left Rear
9 & 10 = Subwoofer
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks PW, I'll be sure to check out the wiring behind the left kick panel... TBH I got the Incartech harness as I can't really be bothered resuscitating the old Clarion-based system if there's an option that will allow me my choice of after-market HU, as soon as I sniffed it working with an old JVC HU, then I rigged up this incartech harness with a new single DIN Kenwood HU this weekend, and have full steering controls, fade, balance and sub-woofer, plus courtesy of Kenwood 21st century additions such as bluetooth hands-free, DAB radio etc. There's a barely dedectible trace of electrical noise so I'll be sure to work on the wiring next time i'm in the left footwell, but for now this task drops down the priority order behind tfr box, rear diff and various front end suspension replacements. For anyone following in my footsteps with the incartech harness - I eventually had to site the deamplification harness under the HEVAC controller, to be able to pack all the wiring/ boxes in - although I'm especially cramped as I have factory-fitted rear set rear seat entertainment and carin satnav to contend with. The only two "complexities" are i. depinning the blue wire on the incartec harness and adding the blue/ white loose wire so that the blue/ white gets a live feed once the HU is switched on, and ii. finding an earth for the purple wire off the steering adapter - and neither are much of a challenge. Incartech sell an extra patch lead for a few quid to deal with the different HU manufacturers' steering interfaces, and although the main harness is pricey, shipping was free, and quick. I didn't have to adjust the deamp unit at all. The most time consuming thing was packing all the wiring in. Thanks for everyone's help on this
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just as a follow up from this, I have reduced the deamp on the 4 door-channels from 50% (as supplied) to 25%, which has eliminated some static noise which was there at zero volume.
 
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