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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
MOT time of year again - I think the only thing it might fail on is the exhaust - when it stops raining I'll get under and check it all out, but I don't *think* it's blowing, yet. Decided to replace it with a stainless one anyway (before, or soon after the MOT...)

So - We don't want a "sports" one with blingy exposed tailpipes, and I've been looking round and have narrowed it down to either the SS DA4240, ie this from Paddocks (et al) http://www.paddockspares.com/da4240-stainless-steel-exhaust-system-range-rover-p38-4-0-and-4-6-v8-with-twin-tailpipes.html

or this from Rimmer (which includes the downpipes+cats)
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RA1453SS
(if the cats/downpipe seem OK, then we can just get the individual components)

Does anyone know who makes the Rimmer one? If it's not SS, then is the quality as good/better/etc?

And if there is a non-blingy "larger bore" exhaust, let me know!

I *think* that's it for potential MOT issues!

But... I've just noticed a "drip" of pink coolant on the drivers side trim panel (no soaked carpet though) - so have added "new o-rings" to the jobs we need to do when we take the dash out.... (along with replace left hand blower motor, fix/replace HVAC controller, bluetooth kit, parking sensors, etc, etc....)

I'd type the whole list of jobs which need doing, but I might cry... :)

Cheers
Rich
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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MOT time of year again - I think the only thing it might fail on is the exhaust - when it stops raining I'll get under and check it all out, but I don't *think* it's blowing, yet. Decided to replace it with a stainless one anyway (before, or soon after the MOT...)

So - We don't want a "sports" one with blingy exposed tailpipes, and I've been looking round and have narrowed it down to either the SS DA4240, ie this from Paddocks (et al) http://www.paddockspares.com/da4240-stainless-steel-exhaust-system-range-rover-p38-4-0-and-4-6-v8-with-twin-tailpipes.html

or this from Rimmer (which includes the downpipes+cats)
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RA1453SS
(if the cats/downpipe seem OK, then we can just get the individual components)

Does anyone know who makes the Rimmer one? If it's not SS, then is the quality as good/better/etc?

And if there is a non-blingy "larger bore" exhaust, let me know!

I *think* that's it for potential MOT issues!

But... I've just noticed a "drip" of pink coolant on the drivers side trim panel (no soaked carpet though) - so have added "new o-rings" to the jobs we need to do when we take the dash out.... (along with replace left hand blower motor, fix/replace HVAC controller, bluetooth kit, parking sensors, etc, etc....)

I'd type the whole list of jobs which need doing, but I might cry... :)

Cheers
Rich
Pretty certain I heard SS weren't that high quality. Got a feeling the boxes were stainless but the tubing inbetween was mild steel. Ring and check first.

I bought a StainlessSteelExhausts exhaust about a year or two ago and it already shows blemishes so clearly the quality there is not what you would expect from, say, Janspeed.

As with so many things, you get what you pay for.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #3
Some of the other random issues... working out if this is where the water is getting in to the boot (and wondering why all the seals seem to have shrunk!), and not forgetting the corrosion on the lip at the bottom of the tailgate.
2016-05-15 12.04.21-resize.jpg

And then - whilst investigating that - started looking at the straps either side which were bulging from the rust in them - then realised the right hand one had completely corroded through, and it was just the rubber case holding the tailgate up - and the left hand one is nearly as bad...
IMG-20160515-WA0011.jpg IMG-20160515-WA0013.jpg

And when putting all the interior trim panels back on after the saga of the leaking bulkhead vents and corroded multiway connector, noticed this "drip"...
IMG-20160515-WA0003.jpg

And that's before I get started on the engine things... :)

Ho hum!

Rich
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #4
Pretty certain I heard SS weren't that high quality. Got a feeling the boxes were stainless but the tubing inbetween was mild steel. Ring and check first.

I bought a StainlessSteelExhausts exhaust about a year or two ago and it already shows blemishes so clearly the quality there is not what you would expect from, say, Janspeed.

As with so many things, you get what you pay for.
Thanks - I saw a couple of other comments about bits being mild steel. Might email Rimmer and see what they say about theirs. I don't mind paying (within reason!), If the SS one lasts 10 years.... but then a mild steel one *should* last that long, i guess!

Rich
 

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Tailgate wires are common, mine are much the same. The drip might be the heater 'o' rings leaking or a core going. Need to do the exhaust on mine, but not sure as to what to go for yet.
 

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I ordered a stainless middle box for my diesel from Rimmers but it was maybe 7 or 8 years ago now. It was a Double S exhaust.

http://www.stainlesssteelexhausts.co.uk/

Welding and fabrication were superb. The main body was made in 304L but the pipes were 409 grade stainless which rusts on the surface! It is technically stainless but has zero nickel in it, just 10-12% chromium. They guarantee against perforation however. All exhaust manufacturers use 409

You can order direct from the factory and get it made in anything you want. All 316 would be the best but it doesn't come cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Tailgate wires are common, mine are much the same. The drip might be the heater 'o' rings leaking or a core going. Need to do the exhaust on mine, but not sure as to what to go for yet.
Going to order a couple of new ones, then see what i can do with that pile of rust... :/

Probably the genuine ones, based on the respective pictures... http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-ALR5237

I presume they "just" bolt in... assuming I can remove the old ones first. Anything else i might want to replace at the same time? :/

Rich
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I changed the middle box on mine a couple of years ago and found it was the original. That's all that's been changed, downpipes and tailpipes are also still original now. If a mild steel one can last for nearly 300,000 miles and 15 or so years, I can't see the point in going for stainless unless you are going big bore.

Tailgate straps do rot through. I discovered one of mine was already broken and had been for years when my daughter sat on the tailgate and the other one broke. Despite being a skinny ballet dancer she still took some stick about her weight.......
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I changed the middle box on mine a couple of years ago and found it was the original. That's all that's been changed, downpipes and tailpipes are also still original now. If a mild steel one can last for nearly 300,000 miles and 15 or so years, I can't see the point in going for stainless unless you are going big bore.
That's one option - I *think* it's just the centre box "going", but my experience of replacing these things on the Series is that the chances of separating the exhaust is "minimal" after a few months, so you replace the whole lot. Are things likely to be different with the P38? And I need to double check the rest of it again....

Tailgate straps do rot through. I discovered one of mine was already broken and had been for years when my daughter sat on the tailgate and the other one broke. Despite being a skinny ballet dancer she still took some stick about her weight.......
ha :) I think I heard this one snap when I was helping a mate get some stuff from IKEA - but didn't twig at the time what the noise was!

Rich
 

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the middle box unbolts and is an easy fix tho the bolts above the axle can be fiddly, i just cut mine and fitted new nuts and bolts, its the rear that slide together.
I fitted SS exhausts to a td5 90 and several (10+) 110's and the build quality and finish are superb, I dont now fit anything else.
 

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Same here, the nuts on the clamps on the middle box were so badly rusted that I couldn't get a socket to fit on them so just cut through the bolts with an angle grinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
In case anyone is interested in an update... the tailgate straps undid surprisingly easily, and we cleaned up and replaced them just fine.

The exhaust, on the other hand... we went for the SS stainless centre box and rear sections. Started fitting from the rear, to ensure that the tailpipes "line up" ok... but I'm now on my third attempt to get it all "sealed".

the rear pipe from the centre box barely lines up with the rear section (i think the gap at the top is too big for the exhaust paste to cope with). Then the front of the center box doesn't seem to want to line up with the existing downpipe+cat section - both joins "blow" when I start the engine.

Any suggestions as to what I might be doing "wrong" here? I might take it off and compare it to the old "standard" one to check if it's the right shape!

Rich
 

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You have to fit it front to back or you will never get a seal. The wide spacing of the rear mounts gives too much leverage on the centre section joints for them to pull up properly with things just hanging there. Centre box has to mount properly on front pipe first so it sits in correct position. Then fiddle with the back.

When mine was done nearly 4 years back certain adjustments had to be made to get it all lined up. Including re-welding a bracket on the OEM front pipe. But my guys had seen it all before and knew just what to do they said "none of the non OEM systems go straight on". Fairly sure they left the rear rubber hanger off the centre box too as that didn't actually do any supporting, merely tried to pull it all out of line. My replacement was mild steel, centre box is already almost gone and MoT man not happy last week. So I'm very interested in how you get on as I'm in the market for a new centre box. Preferably OEM quiet unlike the one I have which lets a bit of V8 burble into the cabin. Not objectionable but more than I like.

Clive
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks - I redid it starting from the front. Debating leaving one hanger off, but ended up leaving them both on. Part of the problem (I think) is that it's not *exactly* the same shape as the original, and the "trumpet flares" (what's the correct term?) on the joints aren't as big, so you don't have as much "flexibility" with alignment. But... we got there, and it sealed (I think.....)

But... whilst warming it up to set the sealing paste... I spotted a drop coming from of the nearside rear silencer! Seems that condensation is getting round the weld? Here's a pic...
2016-06-05 19.49.17.jpg
and the weld isn't much better up the side/top...
2016-06-05 19.49.39.jpg

And this is the offside one.... bit better, but not great?
2016-06-05 19.50.06.jpg

I'll get back to Rimmer about it, and see what they say - beginning to wish we'd just gone with the "genuine parts" ones now, and hoped they last another 15 years :(

Rich
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'll get back to Rimmer about it, and see what they say - beginning to wish we'd just gone with the "genuine parts" ones now, and hoped they last another 15 years :(
So far I've "discovered" that Rimmer reply to a pre-order enquiry in a few minutes, a "complaint" is two days, and counting... :/

Rich
 
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