I'm hearing a chirping noise similar to either crickets or annoying locusts coming from from A/C blower motor/fan. This usually starts after about 5 mins. of fan running after a cold start then pretty consistant thereafter. Anyone have this issue? Is it bearings or debris lodged in there possibly. I've heard if it's bearings, then entire blower motor will need to be replaced. Seen plenty of older post with similar issue but never a resolution just lots of suggestions of what it might be. Thanks in advance....
Chirping noise from A/C Blower Motor
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At $600 for the fans it is not a purchase to be taken lightly. It is also a pig of a job. Glove box, facia, air intake etc have to come out and then drop the main wiring harness and snake the entire HVAC assembly out. Still loads easier than a Classic. The you can remove the air blend box and finally the fan cover. It's 3 or 4 screws and a multiplug to lift the fan out from under the removed cover. Took me about 45 minutes the first time.
At this point you can check for debris in the fan area. You can also bench test the fan motor and with a bit of lithium spray you may be able to quiet the crickets.
Reassembly goes much faster.
At this point you can check for debris in the fan area. You can also bench test the fan motor and with a bit of lithium spray you may be able to quiet the crickets.
Reassembly goes much faster.
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Aww nuts. Forgot about those things.
Had the exact same thing, but was fortunately still covered under extended warranty. Dealer replaced the fan. Bad news is that years later the cricket is beginning to reappear!
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Yep, I'm sure, it only happens when the AC is on....no other time....going to get it check out today
Yeah we priced it, fan/blower motor actually $300 but labor will be more expensive. I'm hoping it's debris but what's weird is the chirping noise starts like clock work AFTER about 5 mins. after a cold start. I would think if it were debris it will be immediate or intermittently at least
Any update on what your issue is now that it has reappeared?
update.... 4/27/17 - Back from the mechanic, bad bearings in the blower motor so it needs to be replaced 
Told that since it is BEHIND the dashboard, the labor is about 8-16 hours. I've rec'd the following quotes $1200, $1600, $2100, $2200 and $2750. The part is only $150
2012 Range Rover HSE
Told that since it is BEHIND the dashboard, the labor is about 8-16 hours. I've rec'd the following quotes $1200, $1600, $2100, $2200 and $2750. The part is only $150 2012 Range Rover HSE
I can confirm that it is a pretty substantial undertaking to replace the blower motor, mainly due to the "buried" location and enclosed access to the blower plenum compartment.
Like many modern vehicles, the first item placed on the assembly line appears to be the HVAC unit, then they build a car around it. Just for good measure, the HVAC assembly is behind the dash frame rail tubing, which also hampers access and therefore has to be dismounted (it's a bolt on) to allow the numerous ducts to be removed from their lodgings, unharmed.
Whoever is giving you those prices needs to be asked this simple question:
When was the last time you replaced a blower motor on a 2012 L322?
Although the 2006-2009 models look very similar to the final update of the L322 model (2010-2012) "behind the scenes" these models are significantly different from the earlier edition.
It's not the end of the world if none of them have but it is an advantage if one of the vendors has carried out this work previously on a 2010-12.
The main body harness is completely different and runs across and behind the dash in a toughened plastic cavity. The "tributaries" that branch off it have specific clips and mounts which, if not refitted exactly as they left Solihull, will produce various irritating rattles and clicks behind the dash.
The main fusebox and body control is now co-located behind the lower glovebox.
The process is quite straightforward BUT there are multiple connectors which will need to be unplugged and reconnected, including multiple yellow SRS connectors.
Once the job is complete, before you accept the return of the car, make sure you test the car thoroughly to ensure that all the various switches, buttons, knobs, controls, security system, ICE and upper and lower glovebox releases etc work correctly.
FWIW, a common cause of blower bearing failures (across various makes and models) is the lack of regular cabin filter replacement.
You may want to check your cabin filter - under the hood, at the foot of the windshield cowl, in a horizontal cavity with the retainer cover held in place by four clips at the lower edge.
Rob
Like many modern vehicles, the first item placed on the assembly line appears to be the HVAC unit, then they build a car around it
. Just for good measure, the HVAC assembly is behind the dash frame rail tubing, which also hampers access and therefore has to be dismounted (it's a bolt on) to allow the numerous ducts to be removed from their lodgings, unharmed. Whoever is giving you those prices needs to be asked this simple question:
When was the last time you replaced a blower motor on a 2012 L322?
Although the 2006-2009 models look very similar to the final update of the L322 model (2010-2012) "behind the scenes" these models are significantly different from the earlier edition.
It's not the end of the world if none of them have but it is an advantage if one of the vendors has carried out this work previously on a 2010-12.
The main body harness is completely different and runs across and behind the dash in a toughened plastic cavity. The "tributaries" that branch off it have specific clips and mounts which, if not refitted exactly as they left Solihull, will produce various irritating rattles and clicks behind the dash.
The main fusebox and body control is now co-located behind the lower glovebox.
The process is quite straightforward BUT there are multiple connectors which will need to be unplugged and reconnected, including multiple yellow SRS connectors.
Once the job is complete, before you accept the return of the car, make sure you test the car thoroughly to ensure that all the various switches, buttons, knobs, controls, security system, ICE and upper and lower glovebox releases etc work correctly.
FWIW, a common cause of blower bearing failures (across various makes and models) is the lack of regular cabin filter replacement.
You may want to check your cabin filter - under the hood, at the foot of the windshield cowl, in a horizontal cavity with the retainer cover held in place by four clips at the lower edge.
Rob
Thanks so much Rob for those pertinent details. I'm definitely concerned as you stated, there is so much to be disconnected and reconnected. I'm thinking the previous owner wasn't good about getting air cabin filter replaced. I noticed you're in Grapevine, I'm in McKinney do you utilize a dealership or independent mechanic?
I currently do everything on our two RR's myself and am very fortunate to have access to the LR network for diagnostic, coding etc through a close friend.
I'll make a couple of calls and send you a PM later today, if he has any further suggestions on how to best resolve your squeal.
Rob
I'll make a couple of calls and send you a PM later today, if he has any further suggestions on how to best resolve your squeal.
Rob
Did I miss anything? If not, please... tell us which year your vehicle is...
I did mine on my 03 using the poor-man's method: one of the first owners who tried this said "You should only do this method if you are poor or a competent spanner head" Well, I think I qualify.
It's really not that hard, and I promise you that cutting off part of the plastic "thing" above the blower fan box does not hurt anything, at least in short term. It may affect the value of your truck if it becomes a classic 50 years later...
Original thread: http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post171844.html#171844
I did mine on my 03 using the poor-man's method: one of the first owners who tried this said "You should only do this method if you are poor or a competent spanner head" Well, I think I qualify.
It's really not that hard, and I promise you that cutting off part of the plastic "thing" above the blower fan box does not hurt anything, at least in short term. It may affect the value of your truck if it becomes a classic 50 years later...
Original thread: http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post171844.html#171844
I am having t he same problem with my 2012 L322. I already purchased a new blower motor and resistor. Now all I need is some instructions oon b ow to remove and replace the blower motor. I'm already familiar with the final stage resistor.
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oon b ow can be found in the shop manual. you did look at the **START HERE** FAQ above right?
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