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Premium Member
1997 P38 4.6 HSE
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Cheers to my first of surely many posts. I took in a P38 on a weird trade and see myself becoming an enthusiast. I am happy to see that this truck is so well supported. I am on the road from turning it from a 22" rims G-ride into a real performing 4x4 part-time overland and material hauler. There are a lot of little issues to work out. I'll try to keep the posts separate in topic to keep it organized. Here goes post #1 with pre-apologies to anything I haven't been able to identify or understand yet. I have done a lot of searching and learning. Some things escape me so far, including RAVE. I have the files, but I think it must run on Windows. There is no logical way I can see to find the files/pdf's I need by file tree naming.

I found some hot-wiring behind the head unit. Wires were tapped from the ISO clip that supplies power. The speaker outputs clip was cut. Other oddities.

1) I find this clear cased relay. It looks professionally installed and tapped into the ISO power clip. What is this relay for? Does it have anything to do with the EAS to spring conversion? I attached a pic showing where it taps into the ISO power harness.
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2) What's up with this ground strap? It wasn't attached to anything. Where should it go?
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3) The accessory power wire is tapped and wire nut'd to a red with blue wire that looks stock. Any ideas what is going on there? I see now that this is the same color wire connected to the relay.
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4) What the heck is this thing that should reside below the clock that has had some wires chopped but retains a green with white and black wire? It looks like a sensor, maybe thermal, attached.
287486
 

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Super Moderator
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2,109 Posts
The thing below the clock is the interior temperature sensor for the climate control. As for the rest, no idea,, only that man that put it in will know that.

Of course RAVE runs under Windows, industry standard software.
 

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Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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192 Posts
You should refit that temperature sensor. It will give you correct interior temp control. It sits behind a little fan in the vent. When it's all working, shine a bright torch in the vent to see the blade spinning. You might need to oil the armature.

If you have springs and the 'EAS manual message' come up when you start then it's been bypassed correctly; look under the LHFR seat to see the EAS ECU with its large multi pin connector that should be unplugged with a couple of jumpers fitted.

That wiring looks pretty messy. I'd be working through it all and cleaning it up properly. Solder and heat shrink are your two new best friends. Follow that relay's outputs and see what they're powering. Get rid of it all if it's superfluous.

Tom
 

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Premium Member
1997 P38 4.6 HSE
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
The thing below the clock is the interior temperature sensor for the climate control. As for the rest, no idea,, only that man that put it in will know that.

Of course RAVE runs under Windows, industry standard software.
Thank you. That was my best guess. I later found that the plastic frame was broken from the bezel. The louvered cover was hacked by previous owner for a terrible audio install.

I will have to try to use the PDF's of RAVE or run an emulator.
 

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Premium Member
1997 P38 4.6 HSE
Joined
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
You should refit that temperature sensor. It will give you correct interior temp control. It sits behind a little fan in the vent. When it's all working, shine a bright torch in the vent to see the blade spinning. You might need to oil the armature.

If you have springs and the 'EAS manual message' come up when you start then it's been bypassed correctly; look under the LHFR seat to see the EAS ECU with its large multi pin connector that should be unplugged with a couple of jumpers fitted.

That wiring looks pretty messy. I'd be working through it all and cleaning it up properly. Solder and heat shrink are your two new best friends. Follow that relay's outputs and see what they're powering. Get rid of it all if it's superfluous.

Tom
Thanks Tom, your advice has been my aim. I spent most of the day cleaning the rat's nest inside the dash. I was on a big push to get working audio and figure out if I could connect into the original audio, if it was there, and if it worked. my driveway was full of tossed wires on both sides of the vehicle. Now that I am hooked into a working original HK system I can also get rid of the wonky wiring with cheapie speakers that the previous owner hacked into the vehicle on both sides under dash panels and rear deck sides. They are terrible sounding Boss cheapies that were worse with the $20 (really) head unit installed when I got the truck, but worse, he destroyed a bunch of interior panels while installing this crap setup... all the while he could have tapped into the original HK system. Shame.

Thanks for the direction about a bypassed EAS. I do get that message on start. The EAS dash button 4 lights would all light up until I changed this head unit. I have no idea what I might have done. I had a couple arcs during my cleanup, one of which popped fuse 1. Perhaps it popped what lights the EAS lights? It sounds like the the relay in the dash is ruled out for being a part of EAS bypass though. I will have to trace.

I no longer have the fan for the temp sensor. Now I understand what the frame with the cylindrical cutout is for. Also, I understand what the other wires were that were chopped from the loom for the sensor. Why in the heck did someone do that?? 😖. Thanks for that info as well. I will have to try to find this on eBay or something.
 

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Premium Member
1997 P38 4.6 HSE
Joined
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
You should refit that temperature sensor. It will give you correct interior temp control. It sits behind a little fan in the vent. When it's all working, shine a bright torch in the vent to see the blade spinning. You might need to oil the armature.

If you have springs and the 'EAS manual message' come up when you start then it's been bypassed correctly; look under the LHFR seat to see the EAS ECU with its large multi pin connector that should be unplugged with a couple of jumpers fitted.

That wiring looks pretty messy. I'd be working through it all and cleaning it up properly. Solder and heat shrink are your two new best friends. Follow that relay's outputs and see what they're powering. Get rid of it all if it's superfluous.

Tom
For entertainments sake, this was the state of wires when I received the truck

287497
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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192 Posts
Magnificent!

Why not buy the new interior bits from a wrecker's? P38 interior parts are plentiful and low cost. You'll be much better off removing the whole fascia to get in there properly and clean it all up. That mess screams 'fire risk' to me.

Start with the window switch pack and work forward. It's all pretty easy to remove and replace. I'd be replacing that top fascia panel.

Tom
 

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Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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169 Posts
As Tom says you should bet the EAS Manual message, so that is done correctly. The EAS switch on the dash should be disconnected (i.e. unplugged) unless you want those 4 lights looking at you all the time. I'm going to guess with all of your ferreting you have dislodged the connector off the 4 light switch, inadvertently disconnecting it.
 

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Premium Member
1997 P38 4.6 HSE
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Magnificent!

Why not buy the new interior bits from a wrecker's? P38 interior parts are plentiful and low cost. You'll be much better off removing the whole fascia to get in there properly and clean it all up. That mess screams 'fire risk' to me.

Start with the window switch pack and work forward. It's all pretty easy to remove and replace. I'd be replacing that top fascia panel.

Tom
Magnificent indeed :) Thanks for the mental redirect. I have had this perspective that there maybe were just not that many in the US and it would be hard to find parts. I was not able to find many examples of sales online to establish value, thus the perception. I also don't personally recall seeing many of these on the road in that era, but also wasn't on my radar. I was about to get into plastic welding to repair all the damage...
 

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Premium Member
1997 P38 4.6 HSE
Joined
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
As Tom says you should bet the EAS Manual message, so that is done correctly. The EAS switch on the dash should be disconnected (i.e. unplugged) unless you want those 4 lights looking at you all the time. I'm going to guess with all of your ferreting you have dislodged the connector off the 4 light switch, inadvertently disconnecting it.
You are absolutely correct, sir. I did dislodge it and now regret reconnecting it this morning.

My major success of the day was "referring" a cabin blower motor to running condition this evening after seeing a post about stretching the brush springs. I followed the YouTube vid about repairing but didn't succeed due to worn brushes (not gone). After running the A/C with the second blower, it was in instant noticeable 2-3x improvement (not losing air pressure to the outside due to non-functioning blower), BUT after running through a couple damper changes via the HEVEC zone buttons, the additional pressure/cfm must have helped a flap move. It feels like Wizard of Oz comparatively now... like 8x what I had with one blower working.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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192 Posts
It all depends on what you want. While you've got the thing apart, you may as well fix it all up. That stereo installation is an abomination. Plenty of folk here who will help you get it right!

I can't abide anything that does not work properly. Is your book symbol on the HEVAC illuminated? While you've got the fascia off, attend to the blend and distribution motors and heater O-rings if they need it.

Do both fresh/recirculating motor flaps work properly - go from end to end without a loud click?

Don't discount the idea of the original radio (can be bought cheaply from a wrecker's) and have a new tablet feed into the CD input via the Grom kit or In Car Connections kit. It's a brilliant mod.

The original radio will fill the gaps up nicely too.

Depends on how far you want to go with it all.

Tom
 
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