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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
While driving my oil lights flickered then it said to shut off engine immediately pulled over did that waited for it to cool checked fluids everything fine started up just fine got to driving noticed that the charging system wasn't working I can read the battery voltage on my deck in the dash Had the battery checked and it was bad just bought that battery so it was replaced under warranty same issue had the alternator tested it was bad bought a new alternator Put it in worked just fine Drove two blocks to the store stopped working disconnect the negative terminal and jumped it to the positive To reset ECU Got it turned the ignition over Allowed system to reset Shut the key off restarted it was working battery light went off but then came back on then went off and came back on and now it's not working again anybody know what the hell is going on
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
While driving my oil lights flickered then it said to shut off engine immediately pulled over did that waited for it to cool checked fluids everything fine started up just fine got to driving noticed that the charging system wasn't working I can read the battery voltage on my deck in the dash Had the battery checked and it was bad just bought that battery so it was replaced under warranty same issue had the alternator tested it was bad bought a new alternator Put it in worked just fine Drove two blocks to the store stopped working disconnect the negative terminal and jumped it to the positive To reset ECU Got it turned the ignition over Allowed system to reset Shut the key off restarted it was working battery light went off but then came back on then went off and came back on and now it's not working again anybody know what the hell is going on
2004 Range Rover hse
 

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No idea. The description is one long sentence, and I can't clearly follow what you're describing.
Possibly the battery was killed by a bad alternator. You replaced the alternator (no idea if it was good one, or a bad one from a junkyard), and it still isn't working.
It would take more detail and clarity to get any good responses; and to avoid a series of back-and-forth to try get enough info to be able to tell.
 

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2011 RRS 3.0 TDV6 Dynamic HSE Lux Fuji White on Ebony & Ivory
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Sounds more like a bad ground cable and somebody needs to find the “.” and “,” buttons at the least.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok sorry was a little frustrated and run on sentences like crazy. Ok here is the problem... as we know have charging issues that were noticed after normal driving. The car did overheat as well as I mentioned due to a hose behind the engine bursting. Fixed that then all was well for about 100 miles or so. Related or not then charging system goes out. Got a new battery , problem persisted, had alternator checked out, was bad replaced with rebuilt one. Started car was charging fine for about 2 blocks, then stops charging. Read somewhere that could rest ecu by disconnecting negative from battery then connecting - to +. Few few seconds. Did that and reconnecting everything as should be, started it up, start charging again! But same thing 2 blocks or so then stops. Check all the wires and nothing burnt or bad save one wire that has a yellow connector and two very small connections
These plug into battery clamp with two brown wires that are broken right at connector so are to solder. See picture. So first what is this wire and could this be the source of my problem? If not then any other suggestions? I can replicate this over and over by "reseting" ecu if that is in fact what I am doing.
Hand Gesture Finger Road surface Asphalt

View attachment 302355
Automotive tire Handwriting Gesture Finger Thumb
 

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When you say charging and not charging, how do you know? Are you monitoring voltage and when stable you assume charging and when it starts dropping, you assume not charging? I don't know what the connector is but might as well fix it to eliminate as an issue.
 

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It would probably help you a lot to download the RAVE technical manual to use for reference. It's the real service manual including system descriptions including electrical systems, and also includes wiring diagrams & other electrical details.
I may be wrong, but you sound mechanically inclined, so you may be able to find the answers to the problem pretty easy once you download the RAVE manual.
I believe it's free - check the 'stickies' posts at the top of the page, although I got a copy on CD many years ago on e-bay pretty cheap.

But since the alternator in the 2003 - 2005 is water-cooled, losing coolant & overheating can destroy an older alternator.
I had to replace mine about 12 years or so ago, but it's been fine since.
Where did you get the replacement that went into it?
New alternators for the 2003 - 2005 aren't available, only rebuilt ones are.
The OEM was Bosch, and as I said earlier I replaced mine back around 2009 or 2010 with one rebuilt by Bosch, the OEM, and it's still working great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It would probably help you a lot to download the RAVE technical manual to use for reference. It's the real service manual including system descriptions including electrical systems, and also includes wiring diagrams & other electrical details.
I may be wrong, but you sound mechanically inclined, so you may be able to find the answers to the problem pretty easy once you download the RAVE manual.
I believe it's free - check the 'stickies' posts at the top of the page, although I got a copy on CD many years ago on e-bay pretty cheap.

But since the alternator in the 2003 - 2005 is water-cooled, losing coolant & overheating can destroy an older alternator.
I had to replace mine about 12 years or so ago, but it's been fine since.
Where did you get the replacement that went into it?
New alternators for the 2003 - 2005 aren't available, only rebuilt ones are.
The OEM was Bosch, and as I said earlier I replaced mine back around 2009 or 2010 with one rebuilt by Bosch, the OEM, and it's still working great.
Got the alternator from advanced auto parts rebuilt... the yellow clip is srs airbag related thanks I'll look for the rave
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
When you say charging and not charging, how do you know? Are you monitoring voltage and when stable you assume charging and when it starts dropping, you assume not charging? I don't know what the connector is but might as well fix it to eliminate as an issue.
Testing with volt meter and my audio interface tells me voltage of vehicle as well as my harma spark device... when it's at 13.3 volts or better all accessories can be ran with no issues when it says 11 volts my ac, stereo, headlights, and phone charger makes the voltage drop quickly
 

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Got the alternator from advanced auto parts rebuilt..
Coincidentally, one thing I recall for certain is that I got my replacement alternator, rebuilt by Bosch, from Discount Auto Parts aka Advance Auto parts, and they had the best price at the time with an on-line discount. That was about 13 years ago though, and still running strong.:cautious:

Yes, less than about 12.5 vdc, and things will begin to drop-off & go south.
Can you isolate it to a particular load? Or you suspect it's a problem with the regulator side?
These RRs have a heavy load on the battery & alternator, but as long as the right battery & alternator are replaced and there aren't any shorts...
So apparently one of those are the weakest link.
I don't recall reading any instances of the SRS system causing a power problem.
 

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Are those little yellow blocks in the picture above inside the battery compartment and connected to a plastic cylinder on the positive battery terminal? If so that is an explosive squid that it designed to sever the positive cable when the air bags deploy. Be careful fooling with anything connected to that, or better yet don't mess with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Are those little yellow blocks in the picture above inside the battery compartment and connected to a plastic cylinder on the positive battery terminal? If so that is an explosive squid that it designed to sever the positive cable when the air bags deploy. Be careful fooling with anything connected to that, or better yet don't mess with it.
Yes that is it...no longer on the battery it was broke so I pulled it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Coincidentally, one thing I recall for certain is that I got my replacement alternator, rebuilt by Bosch, from Discount Auto Parts aka Advance Auto parts, and they had the best price at the time with an on-line discount. That was about 13 years ago though, and still running strong.:cautious:

Yes, less than about 12.5 vdc, and things will begin to drop-off & go south.
Can you isolate it to a particular load? Or you suspect it's a problem with the regulator side?
These RRs have a heavy load on the battery & alternator, but as long as the right battery & alternator are replaced and there aren't any shorts...
So apparently one of those are the weakest link.
I don't recall reading any instances of the SRS system causing a power problem.
Can not isolate the power draw or pull. When I reset battery/ecu by pulling neg cable from battery then jumping that pulled cable to positive terminal for a few mins, then hooking battery back up everything works fine-13.3 volts for a min or two then battery light comes on and voltage drops. Then battery light goes out and voltage goes up. Then battery light goes on voltage drops. Then battery light goes out voltage down etc... it does this for a couple mins then battery light stays on and voltage goes down. I've also notice that my parking brake light goes on when it's disengaged and the lever is pushed on in anyway like if I rest my arm on it have a backpack resting on center console etc... battery is brand new and good alternator is new rebuild from advanced auto parts... could this be ECU related and is there a voltage regulator somewhere???
 

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I've also notice that my parking brake light goes on when it's disengaged and the lever is pushed on in anyway like if I rest my arm on it have a backpack resting on center console etc... is there a voltage regulator somewhere???
Yes, my parking brake lever does that too, a mechanical wear issue, the switch or the stop at the lever.
Yes, the regulator is in the alternator.
 

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I had an 04 RR that had strange electrical problems. It ended up being the large connector to the ABS unit in the engine compartment. More specifically the weather seals in the connector failed, and the pins corroded and shorted. The shell for the male pin side points up like a cup, and if water (or coolant) gets in there it will not drain. I don't think a splash of water is fatal, because the engine heat will make it evaporate, but coolant will not. When I disconnected the plug there was coolant in the connector. Just prior, I had a hose failure that sprayed coolant everywhere in the engine bay.

A couple pins broke off, and I had to replace the ABS controller. Luckily, I was able to change the the electronics (from a used ABS unit) without changing the hydraulics side. There is unswitched battery going to that connector, and signals going to several other systems. The yaw sensor which connects to the ABS also failed, I believe the +12V battery shorted to the yaw sensor signal pins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I had an 04 RR that had strange electrical problems. It ended up being the large connector to the ABS unit in the engine compartment. More specifically the weather seals in the connector failed, and the pins corroded and shorted. The shell for the male pin side points up like a cup, and if water (or coolant) gets in there it will not drain. I don't think a splash of water is fatal, because the engine heat will make it evaporate, but coolant will not. When I disconnected the plug there was coolant in the connector. Just prior, I had a hose failure that sprayed coolant everywhere in the engine bay.

A couple pins broke off, and I had to replace the ABS controller. Luckily, I was able to change the the electronics (from a used ABS unit) without changing the hydraulics side. There is unswitched battery going to that connector, and signals going to several other systems. The yaw sensor which connects to the ABS also failed, I believe the +12V battery shorted to the yaw sensor signal pins.
I've had a hose go also... hose from back of engine to six pump- the plastic coupling went... so where is this located atexactly
 

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