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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,

My 96 4.0 has been acting up with the electrical lately. My youngest daughter has been the primary driver of it the last year+.

Last week it started with the usual dash notifications - gearbox fault, traction control, ect.

I did some quick tests and a few things seemed off. Did a test at alternator and was getting 14.3v and at battery was 13.4
So tonight I did the electrical sticky and things are way different. Now only seeing 11.88 At alternator.

1. Engine off, all accessories on for 30 seconds, then off. What voltage ___12.42___
2. Voltage across battery at idle (no electrical load) ______13.75______
3. Voltage across battery at 2000rpm (no electrical load) __13.83______
4. Voltage across battery at 2000rpm (everything electrical switched on) _11.70________
5. Voltage at ALTERNATOR at 2000rpm (everything switched on)_______11.65____________
6. Voltage drop between alternator body and battery negative (YES negative). Measure at max electrical load and 2000rpm __20____&___21_____ (millivolts please)
7. Voltage drop between alternator positive and battery positive. 2000rpm, max electrical load _____0________
8. Check Voltage drop from Battery Negative terminal to 1st ground point on vehicle______0________
9. Check voltage drop from 1st ground point to block___<5_______
10. Check voltage drop from Alternator Housing to block___,10_______
11. Voltage from alternator positive to alternator housing 11.88

What are your symptoms
Dash notifications - Gearbox fault, traction control, alternator fault

What have you done to fix it so far
Cleaned Battery Posts and terminals(still clean as battery was replaced back in Dec '17), cleaned Ground points on body and block, cleaned terminals on alternator.

Not sure where to go from here. Battery was tested today and passed with no problems.
 

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"11. Voltage from alternator positive to alternator housing 11.88"

This pretty much clinches it as a failing Alternator.
A 96 with, possibly the factory installed Alt would be pretty long in the tooth by now.
If the brushes are nearly gone, it will become somewhat intermittent before it finally dies completely.
This can be rebuilt, or you can just change it out.
Have it looked at and tested, in any event.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Bolt. Was kind of leaning that way. As it was showing 14.3 the other night then less than 12 tonight.

Had the Alt in the 00 rebuilt a year and a half ago at a local shop, was around 100.00US
 

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I’d pop the regulator out and check the brushes, I bet there worn out, you can buy brushes for $5, just remove the old ones, solder the new ones in, or buy a replacement regulator and swap it over, I think a $100 for an alternator overhaul is a bit steep.
 

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$100 for an alternator rebuild is quite reasonable, especially if quality parts are used. They can be quite pricey, and good labor is difficult to find. Considering the prices of cheap rebuilds, a good one for $100 is reasonable. Good show if it lasted 18 months. Ray
 

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Have to agree. $100 is not a bad price if they do brushes and bearings. with that, it should go another 20 years. Just brushes? probably another 10 easy. Heck, I have a pair of CAV units here that have been going strong with just brushes done for 40 years!
 
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