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Discussion Starter #1
Right, not been using the rangie much for the past few weeks and it has needed a jump start on 3 occaisions.

It was last used 26.04.2010 foe a journey of around 50 miles.
Came to start it today with no joy. Needed a jump.

I have read the sticky post but I have become confused as to a possible solution.
I have conducted the required tests and report as follows:

1. Battery Voltage Across Battery Terminals before starting any tests, no loads on_11.97__________
2. Engine off, all accessories on for 30 seconds, then off. What voltage _11.87_____
3. Voltage across battery at idle (no electrical load) __13.49__________
4. Voltage across battery at 2000rpm (no electrical load) __13.54______
5. Voltage across battery at 2000rpm (everything electrical switched on) __13.20_______
6. Voltage at ALTERNATOR at 2000rpm (everything switched on)____13.80_______________
7. Voltage drop between alternator body and battery negative (YES negative). Measure at max electrical load and 2000rpm __61 (millivolts please)
8. Voltage drop between alternator positive and battery positive. 2000rpm, max electrical load ___300_______
9. Check Voltage drop from Battery Negative terminal to 1st groundpoint on vehicle____37.3__________
10. Check voltage drop from 1st ground point to block___21.8_______
11. Check voltage drop from Alternator Housing to block___0.0_______

Any help would be most appreciated.................
 

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Hi RPM,

My car does not get a lot of work and to keep it topped up and ready to go I plug it into an automatic battery charger if it has been a few weeks since I last drove it. The charger is intelligent enough to be safe to leave on the car all the time and comes with plug fittings I can easily plug in without removing the battery cover. Recently had a spell of 7 weeks without moving and I just plugged in the charger sometime the week before I was planning on needing her and she fired up first time.

Also noticed that all manner of small and insignificant electrical gremlins disappear when the battery has been topped up in this manner. Silly little things like the Hevac remembering what it was doing from last time it was turned on and better remote locking operation.

Not being an expert and looking at your figures below both the initial and charging figures seem low. I would get the battery checked and then the Alternator, I think there are two specs for the Alternator 100 and 150 amp, I wonder if this could affect the charging figures.

Cheers, Steve.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks steve.

I do intend on using her most days but I had to lay her up for 2 weeks in order to raise funds for the gearbox work.

Then she sat on my drive for a further 12 days waiting for a burst air bag to be replaced.

She has been used maybe 3 times since and I am having battery issues that have never featured in the last 18 months.

To top that I have just had a new British gas central heating system with a remote programming thermostat which appears to be a common rf interference for the becm!!

I had to jump it once though before this was installed so I am just trying to eliminate possibilities before I fork out cash on alternators and batteries!!!

Thanks
 

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I received a PM from RPM, in summary, my answers are:

Positive battery cable is faulty. Clean connections and/or replace with much larger cable eg 0 gauge. I would also replace negative but testing doesn't show a problem right now.

battery is flat and should be charged with a high grade 3 stage (or better) charger. I use a Projecta 16 amp 7 stage charger, normally in 8 amp mode on my rangie. The $200 a really good charger will cost will save you more than that in batteries in no time.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks a bunch Greg.

A friend ofmine has a prettu good charger that I am going to borrow.

I'll clean up all the connectors, get the battery fully charged and see how we go.

I'm gonna make a cigarette lighter adapter as well to run my ameter from inside the car on journeys etc.

I'll keep you updated, already saved me a stackof cash as I had lined up a new battery and alternator!
 

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Hi mate another thing to check if you can is the specific gravity of the battery,because if it is low you will need to charge it for longer to bring the SG up.
 

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I would invest in a battery drop tester so you can see what is going on. It will measure the starting amps and voltage drop and tell you instantly if the battery is duff. Otherwise you will be going round in circles. Some of them can also check the alternator output. I got a s/h professional one on ebay for about £40.
As mentioned a smart charger is also a good idea. These charge in stages. To get a full 100% charge the voltage needs to go up at the end. Often they can resurrect a poor battery (or at least make it last a bit longer). You also can't over charge with a smart charger.

Dave
:)
 
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