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Discussion Starter #1
2003 L322, 4.4L BMW. Coolant expansion tank had developed a leak so I changed it out before it failed completely. All went well with the replacement, but the alternator quit working immediately afterwards. I know it is part of the cooling system, but am stumped as to how, if at all it could be related, or just poor timing. I tried bleeding the system as per the manual, but there is not a valve to bleed at the lines going into/out of the alternator, so I bled it just at the expansion tank. Previous owner had replaced all coolant lines, radiator, as well as coolant in December 2014. Any suggestions before I just default to replacing the alternator?

Thanks,

Brian
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Check your connections mainly at the alternator. Follow all them back to their respective end points and examine/clean. It is a sealed unit but the outside connections could be dirty enough after getting spilled on to cause a lack of sufficient current flow. The way you bled it is correct - through the expansion tank. Would not hurt to check all your other big gauge wires as they corrode over time.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Do the electrical tests before replacing that PIA thing.
It could also be throwing a fit due to getting wet, although doubtful. I replaced the chains, tensioners VANOS, etc a while back, and had zero alternator issues afterwards.

Martin
 

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I would definitely clean the connections good. The water cooling aspect of the alternator has nor bearing on wether it outputs current or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I cleaned the engine bay in the area to remove the coolant that had gotten onto the firewall from the leaking expansion tank. It would seem that some water got into the alternator and is perhaps the issue. Will see if I can resurrect it before I replace it.
 

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Fast evaporating cleaners do wonder for cleaning alternators. Think intake cleaner, MAF cleaner, brake cleaner... whatever you have on the shelf. These will clean out any residues and filth while cleaning the brushes and components. Do not use anything with lubricating properties or that will leave residue that can gum things up... if you can resurrect it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Fast evaporating cleaners do wonder for cleaning alternators. Think intake cleaner, MAF cleaner, brake cleaner... whatever you have on the shelf. These will clean out any residues and filth while cleaning the brushes and components. Do not use anything with lubricating properties or that will leave residue that can gum things up... if you can resurrect it.
I looked and looked, but it seems to be a sealed unit. I even took my borescope to look in areas I could not directly see, yet no openings as I have had on other alternators in other vehicles. I even tried the old school method of seeing if the back of it produced a magnetic field with a screw driver, but to no avail. traced all the wiring and it seems good. Even checked every fuse just to be sure something else had not occurred. I was getting current down the ground cable where it connects to the alternator. Will see if I can conduct a few additional test before I swap it out. Other than Parts Geek, any other vendors with good alternator prices? In no hurry as the RR is a second vehicle, so shipping time is not an issue.

Thanks for the input everyone.

Brian
 

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Well crud. I have changed two but don;t remember the fronts being sealed. I guess this just boils down to lousy timing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Lousy timing as I now have to drain and refill the coolant system again, as I just did that last weekend. Good time to change belts while I am into it I guess. Ordered the Bosch alternator from my local Advance Auto. Price was as good as anyone else and no shipping. Sweet deal, just won't be here until Monday afternoon. Bright side is I will not be wrentching this weekend. Thanks for the input.
 
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