Central locking wiring, help with aftermarket controller?

10164 Views 27 Replies 4 Participants Last post by aussiebushman, May 2, 2017

miggit

Discussion Starter · Apr 13, 2017

As part of my upgrades I'm fitting an aftermarket central locking remote with flipkeys, as I don't trust the alarm!! I've just been looking at the wiring diagram for the 89 RRC and it's not very helpful

And the Chinese instructions aren't much better!!

From what I can make out, the controller has 2, 2 way relays in it that can be used to switch either + or - pulses to the central locking system, and the RRC has 2 wires going to each motor Orange and Pink, so they must flip flop between + and - depending on which operation is going on. And now the $64000000 Question, what do I pluse to which wire? ie. is it permanently live and I pulse the earth, or is it permanently low and I pulse the live?, or are they both dead and I have to send + and - at the same time to opposite leads?

If only they had included a diagram of what was going on inside the master switch, it would have made life alot easier!

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miggit

Discussion Starter · #21 · Apr 29, 2017

Well I can report back that those actuators have got massive grunt behind them... I installed mine yesterday, and while I did have a few issues at first, I got there in the end..

Electrical wiring Electrical supply Vehicle door Gas Machine

This was the only place that I could mount the actuator, which meant that I had to extend the push / pull rod by 3", luckily I had a spare clamp block and some rod.. I connected it to the inside lock button rod, just below the door frame. I managed this by bending the rod down a bit so that I could attach the clamp and then bent it back as best I could. the second clamp block just happened to fall in to a place that is accessible, so that was easy... The button inside is noticeably stiffer, but I thought I'd try it with an independent battery before it all went back together.... WOW!! talk about positive action.. these actuators really have got some power.

It would be easy to replace an original actuator / motor with one of these... but some crafty rewiring would be needed, not impossible, and I reckon that you could use 99% of the Range Rover wiring as well.

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miggit

Discussion Starter · #22 · Apr 29, 2017

Right the plot thickens... I have been bugged by your central locking dilemma and been doing a bit of digging and have discovered that there are 2 types of central locking aftermarket kits... the common one is the remote add on, which is for use with an existing system... I suspect that this is what you have, it relies on the system working and adds the lock / unlock signal to the original controller. The second type is usually found with a kit and it uses a 5 wire actuator to power the other locks... And this is the type of thing you need, unfortunately I haven't found one that isn't part of a kit...But I have found a kit that's silly money cheap!!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252688531620?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

You can use just the controller to get your system working and sell the actuators at $5 a pop and get most if not all your dosh back!

I'm not 100% certain that your controller is wrong as you haven't posted any pictures, HINT!!, But I'm 99% sure that the previous owner / muppet has tried to fit the common remote add on in place of the LR controler, which has left the system unpowered... there is also a way to overcome the problem with a series of relays, but that rather depends on your wiring skills!

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95classiclwb

· #23 · Apr 29, 2017

miggit said:
Right the plot thickens... I have been bugged by your central locking dilemma and been doing a bit of digging and have discovered that there are 2 types of central locking aftermarket kits... the common one is the remote add on, which is for use with an existing system... I suspect that this is what you have, it relies on the system working and adds the lock / unlock signal to the original controller. The second type is usually found with a kit and it uses a 5 wire actuator to power the other locks... And this is the type of thing you need, unfortunately I haven't found one that isn't part of a kit...But I have found a kit that's silly money cheap!!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252688531620?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

You can use just the controller to get your system working and sell the actuators at $5 a pop and get most if not all your dosh back!

I'm not 100% certain that your controller is wrong as you haven't posted any pictures, HINT!!, But I'm 99% sure that the previous owner / muppet has tried to fit the common remote add on in place of the LR controler, which has left the system unpowered... there is also a way to overcome the problem with a series of relays, but that rather depends on your wiring skills!

I managed to mount both the factory and aftermarket actuator on the factory plate, then using a small diameter bolt, I ran it thru the eyelets of both actuators...
the left over hook previously attached to the original factory actuator was now attached to the newly installed small diameter bolt which now runs thru both actuators.
the new actuator was wired to the aftermarket keyless entry, now when aftermarket keyless entry receives the signal it actuates the aftermarket actuator and it in-turn activated the factory actuator thus full keyless remote lock unlock..

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miggit

Discussion Starter · #24 · Apr 29, 2017

That's virtually what I have done, I assume that your RRC is an older one with the 4 wire system.. because the extra actuator isn't required for a 5 wire system..

Anyhow I was referring to aussiebushman's problems where a previous owner has replaced the LR controller, under steering wheel, with an aftermarket unit and fubar'd the entire system.. Why is anyone's guess, but as he has a lack of LR controller I think it could get expensive, very quickly if it were given to a garage / auto shop to repair... I've got a fairly good grasp on how the systems operate and reckon that a cheap solution is possible... Just need to see what we're up against!!

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aussiebushman

· #25 · Apr 30, 2017

"I'm 99% sure that the previous owner / muppet has tried to fit the common remote add on in place of the LR controler, which has left the system unpowered"

Pretty sure that is exactly what has occurred. I can only detect one 12V source at the actuator plug - all other wires give no readings. I also agree this could be expensive to fix.

The actuator is also very suspect - someone had obviously ripped it apart then gummed the end up with silicone. The striker just flops in and out without any resistance and I doubt that is right.

Re your note "The second type is usually found with a kit and it uses a 5 wire actuator to power the other locks... And this is the type of thing you need, unfortunately I haven't found one that isn't part of a kit...But I have found a kit that's silly money cheap!! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2526885316...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT"

If the original controller has been ripped out, would this work?? Anything is worth a try - the cost of OEM parts is frightening

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miggit

Discussion Starter · #26 · Apr 30, 2017

Right if the controller isn't LR, then that kit has the right controller... assuming that your after straight lock / unlock, not locking on the move, it can be easily adapted to fit the Range Rover system.... I have also discovered that you can get heavy duty 2 and 5 wire actuators... they are silly money expensive in Aus... but if you go direct to China then they are stupidly cheap!! Over the last few years I have brought a lot of stuff direct from China using Aliexpress and paying with a card... it's like ebay but a lot cheaper, about 50% of it is free postage, but it does take a few weeks as it comes by sea.

H/D 5 Wire.. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Car...lgo_pvid=19eebeca-b92d-488e-9f14-5eb5e9d546d9
H/D 2 wire.. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Car-Auto-Universal-Heavy-Duty-Power-Slave-Door-Lock-Actuator-for-Motor-Central-Locking-System-2/32601414903.html?spm=2114.01020208.3.90.z2YWaB&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10065_10151_10068_10130_10136_10137_10157_10060_10138_10155_10062_10156_10154_10056_10055_10054_10059_10099_10103_10102_10096_10148_10147_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10110_10111_10112_10113_10114_10179_10181_10182_10078_10079_10073_10070_10123_10124,searchweb201603_16,ppcSwitch_7_ppcChannel&btsid=55da1393-efae-4ffb-9f11-971e369f5575&algo_expid=19eebeca-b92d-488e-9f14-5eb5e9d546d9-12&algo_pvid=19eebeca-b92d-488e-9f14-5eb5e9d546d9

As you can see they are silly money cheap compared with the prices I have seen on fleabay Aus, I dare say a C/L system might be cheaper from there too... but I'm not going to wade through thousands of pages looking, and it'll only be a few cents..

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miggit

Discussion Starter · #27 · May 1, 2017

Here is the wiring diagram for a 1990 Range Rover

I have coloured the wires in, BUT, the green is actually black / earth / negative..and the solid red is actually brown / +12v / positive.

Here is a typical diagram for the aftermarket system, which I have applied the same colours to..

Diagram Plan Technical drawing Parallel Floor plan

With 6 connections the aftermarket controller can be substituted for the missing factory controller, also your remote locking controller can be added to the system so you have keyless entry too!

The only difference between the 2 setups is the aftermarket diagram is only showing 1 5 wire master actuator, where as the factory system has 2, but due to the way that they work you can double up on the Red/Pink and Yellow/Orange wires to add another master to the after market system!!

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aussiebushman

· #28 · May 2, 2017

Thanks Miggit - you are a legend! The diagrams should make it a whole lot easier to connect the replacement actuator I have now ordered.

PLR - you were correct. I sent a picture of mine to the Holden wreckers in Cheltenham VIC who compared it with a VS Commodore D/S actuator and will supply it complete with wiring plug and pigtails for just $60 including postage - a lot better than $380 for the OEM version. With Miggit's wiring diagrams it should work

Alan

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