[aussiebushman]

I'm struggling with exactly the same problem after the PO ripped out the original control unit and alarm system, replaced it with a Chinese aftermarket unit but did not hook it up. For what it is worth, I found the following in another thread dealing with replacement of the actuators (can't remember the source) but it might help simplify the identification of the wiring.

Maybe we can both work on it and share the results. Article in part, with edits and additions of my own reads:

The first challenge is to ensure power is getting to the controller. Then with a meter or circuit tester, check the wiring FROM the controller, meaning what goes live when the remote buttons are depressed. Two of these will be the "lock/unlock" and one will probably be ground

The rear door actuators are “slaves” to the front doors and only require 2-wire connections. The driver door is a master (as it controls all doors) and requires a 5-wire hook-up. The passenger side can be either a slave or a master.

When the 2/3- wire connections that lock/unlock the rear doors have been identified, that combination will remain the same on all doors.

When you know which is the ground, there are only 2 more to test and connect to the front door actuators​

 

[aussiebushman]

Wise choice Miggit. Was asking Ward at Graeme Cooper Automotive about using aftermarket actuators, especially the "pistol" type - he claims they just do not have the required power and even if they work initially are very prone to early failure - false economy.

I still have not sorted mine out but it definitely IS a 5 wire system

 

[aussiebushman]

Miggit - I presume your last question was to me.

The PO had ripped out the entire controller and alarm circuit and replace the former with an after-market unit but had not connected it up. None of the doors now lock with the key - only lock by pushing down the top lever. The key DOES unlock the driver's door mechanically, but not electrically so there seems to be no power getting to the actuators.

I have yet to pull off the door trim and check for power to the actuator because there have been too many other minor irritating jobs to do first (like the electric seat wiring, the air con resistors and several other things). I'll get the trim off today to see what is going on - or not, as the case may be.

 

[aussiebushman]

The PO did not replace the actuators - only the controller. I have now pulled off the door trim and found that the multi-plug to the actuator had become disconnected. I have yet to check the power at the plug, but with the plug reconnected, the new controller now clicks when the new remote fob is depressed but there is no sound or movement of the actuator.

Adjusting the actuator mounting plate makes no difference - the key still only unlocks the door, but will NOT lock it so the problem may (I hope) only be mechanical - perhaps a broken over-spring so I'll have to remove the unit for inspection and bench testing. However, I expect to find the actuator is stuffed. My gurus say the aftermarket types do not have enough torque and are a waste of money and a new one is approaching $300 here.

How are you getting on with yours?

 

[aussiebushman]

Thanks Guys - all good input. Yes, I have tried all options for locking - with the window down just in case it worked!

I'm getting power to the actuator also to the key-wiring but nothing happens. I understand the actuator needs only the pink and orange wires active to operate, but it waits for a signal from the controller to do this. If black is ground, it must be the red/pink and yellow/red doing that

The workshop manager at GCA reckons the new controller fitted by the PO may not be compatible and is not sending the signal to the actuator.

I'm getting increasingly frustrated by this and may just have to pay the money for the techos to reinstall the whole lot - not a happy prospect

 

[aussiebushman]

"I'm 99% sure that the previous owner / muppet has tried to fit the common remote add on in place of the LR controler, which has left the system unpowered"
​

Pretty sure that is exactly what has occurred. I can only detect one 12V source at the actuator plug - all other wires give no readings. I also agree this could be expensive to fix.

The actuator is also very suspect - someone had obviously ripped it apart then gummed the end up with silicone. The striker just flops in and out without any resistance and I doubt that is right.

Re your note "The second type is usually found with a kit and it uses a 5 wire actuator to power the other locks... And this is the type of thing you need, unfortunately I haven't found one that isn't part of a kit...But I have found a kit that's silly money cheap!! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2526885316...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT"
​

If the original controller has been ripped out, would this work?? Anything is worth a try - the cost of OEM parts is frightening

 

[aussiebushman]

Thanks Miggit - you are a legend! The diagrams should make it a whole lot easier to connect the replacement actuator I have now ordered.

PLR - you were correct. I sent a picture of mine to the Holden wreckers in Cheltenham VIC who compared it with a VS Commodore D/S actuator and will supply it complete with wiring plug and pigtails for just $60 including postage - a lot better than $380 for the OEM version. With Miggit's wiring diagrams it should work

Alan