[95classiclwb]

Miggit, on my old 87 classic I installed keyless entry and remote start. I understand the concern and difficulty with the power lock system, in the end I used a slave actuator and attached it to the existing lock mechanism then wired the slave into the lock unlock wires of the aftermarket brain.
in this manner it emulated a hand moving the actual lock and all other locks worked. this with out damaging the existing wiring or the possibility of a short.

 

[95classiclwb]

The PO did not replace the actuators - only the controller. I have now pulled off the door trim and found that the multi-plug to the actuator had become disconnected. I have yet to check the power at the plug, but with the plug reconnected, the new controller now clicks when the new remote fob is depressed but there is no sound or movement of the actuator.

Adjusting the actuator mounting plate makes no difference - the key still only unlocks the door, but will NOT lock it so the problem may (I hope) only be mechanical - perhaps a broken over-spring so I'll have to remove the unit for inspection and bench testing. However, I expect to find the actuator is stuffed. My gurus say the aftermarket types do not have enough torque and are a waste of money and a new one is approaching $300 here.

How are you getting on with yours?

did you emulate closing the door by latching the latch in the closed position before testing lock unlock motion? front doors have a safety feature built in where they must be closed for the locking system to lock this way you don't lock your keys in the truck.
or you can roll down a front window, and then test the lock unlock function. if at this time the actuator fails to work properly you may have found your culprit.

 

[95classiclwb]

Right the plot thickens... I have been bugged by your central locking dilemma and been doing a bit of digging and have discovered that there are 2 types of central locking aftermarket kits... the common one is the remote add on, which is for use with an existing system... I suspect that this is what you have, it relies on the system working and adds the lock / unlock signal to the original controller. The second type is usually found with a kit and it uses a 5 wire actuator to power the other locks... And this is the type of thing you need, unfortunately I haven't found one that isn't part of a kit...But I have found a kit that's silly money cheap!!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252688531620?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

You can use just the controller to get your system working and sell the actuators at $5 a pop and get most if not all your dosh back!

I'm not 100% certain that your controller is wrong as you haven't posted any pictures, HINT!!, But I'm 99% sure that the previous owner / muppet has tried to fit the common remote add on in place of the LR controler, which has left the system unpowered... there is also a way to overcome the problem with a series of relays, but that rather depends on your wiring skills!

I managed to mount both the factory and aftermarket actuator on the factory plate, then using a small diameter bolt, I ran it thru the eyelets of both actuators...
the left over hook previously attached to the original factory actuator was now attached to the newly installed small diameter bolt which now runs thru both actuators.
the new actuator was wired to the aftermarket keyless entry, now when aftermarket keyless entry receives the signal it actuates the aftermarket actuator and it in-turn activated the factory actuator thus full keyless remote lock unlock..