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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been searching the last two days, but didn't find, what I was looking for. Search settings don't make it easier, can't search for e.g. AUX, it's too short...

I'm sure, I have seen a thread about using the CD-Input on the HU (Alpine Premium, the blue, square plug on the back) in conjunction with a silent disk in the changer, but can't find it. Maybe there's someone, who can help me?

I've got a cable with a 3.5mm jack and the blue square plug on the other end, have used it on VDO and Blaupunkt HU instead of CD-changer input, worked fine. But the Alpine HU needs a signal from the changer, in order to open the input for signals, and doesn't show DC-Error. So here the silent disk comes in. I have googled but only found several sites with silent tracks, but only in length up to 5 minutes - i want a single silent track of 70 minutes, because I've read, the HU will cut the signal, when changing from one track to another, and I don't want that. So first problem is: How to create a single silent track of 70 minutes (I have got the programs to do it - Audacity, Adobe Audition, Cubase and others, but don't know exactly how to).

The changer gets stuck again some days after I have cleaned it (hardened oil/grease in the drawer-mechanics for the cartridge), so I want to put a silent cd in it and leave it there (only that one, so the changer doesn't attempt to change the disk), and being able to play from my phone.

I have tried the cassette-adapter thing, not really good sound, in-line FM-Modulator (horrible sound, cassette actually better, much to low input signal), because my P38 blew the engine cooler the other day, my finances are a bit tight at the time, so I don't want to invest in expensive solutions like Grom or others (which mostly seem to be designed to use with Iphones - but I'm amongst the majority that has an Android), be it with or without Bluetooth. Of course this would be the best solution, but right now not for me.

IMAG0591.jpg

As you can see, there are only connectors for left, right + and common, the other five contacts are not present in this plug. Is this enough, or do I have to modify the existing plug in the vehicle harness? If signals from the changer (disk and track number) are transmitted from the changer via this plug, the one I have wouldn't do the job, I guess? But would be easiest, since it's pre-manufactured...
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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How to create a single silent track of 70 minutes
Using Audition, File New and select 44100 kHz sample rate, 16 bit, stereo. That will open a new file, then go to the Generate tab, and select Silence. A box will pop up asking how long (with the default of 10 seconds) so put 4200 in that box and 70 minutes of silence will be created. Go to File, Save as, give it a name and select the format as Microsoft wav. Then using whatever you use to burn discs, create an audio CD and drop the saved file into it, burn to disc and you will have a CD with a single track containing 70 minutes of silence.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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WOW! Seriously convoluted, but if what you want to do is listen to music being streamed from an phone or whatnot, why not use an Grom box and be done with it?
I use one that accepts USB sticks with my music, but there are models that are Bluetooth compatible that work well.
Oh, and all are "Plug and play" .....And really are!
Expensive? Well, if about 100 dollars is expensive for really great sound, then carry on. The last thing I would want to do is discourage innovation (And no, I am not being facetious) I really do admire folks that work out solutions to seemingly insurmountable problems. (Heck, I am waiting for Marty to come up with an Beagle Bone Black BECM!)
Just be sure to post the results so we can all try your solution:thumb:
You probably have, but if not Look here:
http://gromaudio.com/
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
@Gilbert: Thanks, helpful as always... Tried with Adobe Audition 2015CC, slight differences in commands, but worked! Just burned the cd, now I have to get the tray/cartridge out of the changer (means dismantle it).

@Bolt: You're completely right, best thing would be Grom, but I prioritize a little different, my finances are a bit tight fright now (the blown cooler was a bit expensive, as it happened abroad, without the option to get the car towed home and do it myself), I'm planning to repair the AC, as the condenser is punktured, I need a new set of tires (and I want quality, no China-crap) and lots of other small things, so I want this intermittent solution to be as cheap as possible. When I catch my breath, I'll go for the Grom (or what else there is). For now: The cheap and fast solution, if I can manage this with in-house-resources, and I don't have to wait for deliverance of postal order for days, I could be cruisin' with good tunes tonight:)

For the electrics: Is a ground loop isolator necessary or would it work without? And what about the signal from changer to HU, is this routed through the blue connector?
 

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The blue connector is the changer, so yes, it's signals will go through it.
You may or may not need a Ground loop isolator for this.
If the source is electrically isolated from the Chassis, there will be no loop created. Using a car charger would most likely result in a ground loop.
You will just have to try it and see!

I can fully relate to the tight $$ situation and can REALLY relate to the desire to install only top quality parts!
Looking forward to hearing about your results!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
why would the track have to be silent (though I understand the silent part is not the issue, the length is)? if the soundfron the changer is not going into the HU anyway...

Silent: I have read that some sound "get's through" to the subwoofer. As long as possible, as the HU cut's the sound for a splitsecond, when changing track - so lot's of silent five-minutes-tracks (as found via google) would give interrupted sound. So the idea is to make the HU believe it's playing one long track and start it over again (with a short gap), after the 70 minutes - and therefore continue playing the mp3's (or FLACs) from my phone.

Thinking a bit more, I guess I have to splice in to the harness from the player, because the HU needs the disk and track info, fed through the blue connector. But, by any means, correct me, if I'm wrong (hope I am).

The need for a ground loop isolator, when the phone is plugged into a charger, worries me a bit, seems there are considerable quality differences there. And starts to cost some money and has to be ordered (so much for the homemade hack with in-house resources). Right now the weather is too bad anyway, so I might have a closer look at the Grom page...
 
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if part of the sound from the changer would not go through the three wires you use in the blue block, that would mean your input would not sound right either, and it would mean the CDchanger splits the sound in subwoofer and higher notes.... seems highly unlikely to me, as the filtering is normaly done in the préamp section of the HU.

I know allmost for sure you won't get sound into you HU if the changer is disconnected, the HU won't switch to CD probably
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, it worked:).

And it wouldn't have, if I didn't have the extra blue connector (the one on the photo above). I had to take it apart, to pry out the small connections inside, so I could combine the leads from the in-car changer data lines and the cables for the headphone jack. Actually, the original plug was so robust, I had to cut it off and cut out the connectors.

IMAG0606.jpg IMAG0599.jpg IMAG0600.jpg IMAG0605.jpg

First image, just to make sure what HU I've got (and I don't know what exactly it's called, something Premium or so?), second is comparison between the two blue connectors, third the connector cut off, last connector combined with audio signal and data cables, the original audio signal cables are gathered in a heat shrink tube and put away.

There's the red and white, quite standard left and right + signals, gray and black are L R - signals, then there are the data cables from the changer, brown, purple and green. I got rid of the cable rest as good as possible (very fiddly, but have to get all insulation out, in order to have a clean soldering point), soldered the new cable on to it, secured with heat shrink tube, put the connector in to the socket again. Note, the cable with the 3.5 mm audio jack has combined L and R -/common, i divided them and soldered a contact to each of them.

Tested with silent disk in the changer, first without charger connected to phone, excellent sound, no hum or buzz. Tested again, with charger connected to phone from cigar lighter plug, still no noise, then with the engine running: No hum, no buzz, no noise! So no need for ground loop isolator.

Got good music and good sound, saved a hundred bucks - and can live with this setup, until I have fixed all the other issues with the car and can afford a Grom BT unit:clap:.

@Roger: The thing about not running a silent disk is something I've read here, didn't want to experiment, so i went for the silent disk option. And I don't get the gap in sound, when the changer goes to the next track. And as you might be able to read further up, I'm well aware of the problem with the data-cables from the changer and the nedd for a signal for the HU to switch to cd-mode.

Just a question about the HU: I had the impression, the Premium HU had the DSP option (with speed dependent volume aso.) which is reached by pressing note-symbol six times, but this option is not available on my HU. So it's a "sub-premium" HU? Everything else is there, the amps in the doors, the sub, the black box connected to the sub, HK speakers and tweeters... Is the DSP integrated in the HU or is it an extra unit, connected to the sub? In other words, can i change the HU and get the DSP-options? And what unit would that be?
 

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Congratulations! Well done, and well documented......
If you have the "Premium" sound system, you will find the DSP amplifier behind the panel that is behind the sub woofer cabinet.
It just sort of hangs there waiting in the dark to fail for no good reason......:think: (I now own 3 dead ones)
Otherwise, the amps are in the doors, and no central amp.
Again, Glad it worked so well.
 

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You've got the High Line not the DSP Premium. High Line has amps in the doors and a separate amp for the sub, Premium has no amps in the doors, everything is driven from the DSP amp that lives by the sub and has a black 42 way connector on it. To upgrade would involve an awful lot of wiring.......
 
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