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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, Wondering if you can shed some light on my problem.

Day1:
was driving the day before on a highway and the engine just shutdown. I coasted down the hill to the nearest ramp and tried starting again, it wouldnt. Had electrics, engine turned over but wouldnt start. Had it towed back to my house. Tow driver said he tried starting the car a few hours later and it started right up. Today i jumped the battery which was fully dead (left hazard lights on), and the truck started. Battery showed charging at 14.1-14.4, About 20 minutes into idling the car died again and wouldnt start back up (just turns over).

Day 2:
BAttery was fine and car started right up. I let it idle and after 24 minutes it shut down by it self, battery shows 12.2 and turns engine over. I also jumped the battery in case and it was showing 13.9 while being jumped, still only turns the engine but will not start. It's like there is no fuel getting to it. Once it cools in an hour I think it will start again.

p.s. when the car shuts down it just shuts down.... engine runs fine and doesn't stutter towards the end. Also when i turn the ignition key in on position i can hear the fuel pump making noise but it a weird "clunk" sound, metal to metal sound. like hitting a metal pipe with a wrench (lasts less than 1 sec)

thanks in advance
 

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Super Moderator
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2,310 Posts
Most likely the crank position sensor, when dying they stop working when they get hot. Try waiting until it dies then spray cold water on the CPS. If it starts right up again that is your fault.
 

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Premium Member
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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455 Posts
THe CKP is the very probable culprit
only a few more observations

Hello, Wondering if you can shed some light on my problem.

Day 2:
BAttery was fine and car started right up. I let it idle and after 24 minutes it shut down by it self, battery shows 12.2 and turns engine over.
I also jumped the battery in case and it was showing 13.9 while being jumped, still only turns the engine but will not start. It's like there is no fuel getting to it. Once it cools in an hour I think it will start again.

coils getting too hot can also do that
that is not very much..you should check that battery.


Also when i turn the ignition key in on position i can hear the fuel pump making noise but it a weird "clunk" sound, metal to metal sound. like hitting a metal pipe with a wrench (lasts less than 1 sec)

thanks in advance
Where do you here the clunk? Starter motor or in the back? Or the drive plate?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Most likely the crank position sensor, when dying they stop working when they get hot. Try waiting until it dies then spray cold water on the CPS. If it starts right up again that is your fault.
I ll try that

THe CKP is the very probable culprit
only a few more observations

I also jumped the battery in case and it was showing 13.9 while being jumped, still only turns the engine but will not start. It's like there is no fuel getting to it. Once it cools in an hour I think it will start again.

coils getting too hot can also do that
that is not very much..you should check that battery.




Where do you here the clunk? Starter motor or in the back? Or the drive plate?
coils inside the battery? i did feel the battery and it was cold to touch

Even if you're not showing a MIL lamp, do you have any set or pending codes?
Engine code showed Error "System Voltage High" p0563, i did delete yesterday and it hasnt comeback yet
 

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Discussion Starter #6
THe CKP is the very probable culprit
only a few more observations

I also jumped the battery in case and it was showing 13.9 while being jumped, still only turns the engine but will not start. It's like there is no fuel getting to it. Once it cools in an hour I think it will start again.

coils getting too hot can also do that
that is not very much..you should check that battery.




Where do you hear the clunk? Starter motor or in the back? Or the drive plate?
clunk was coming from the back of the car, i never noticed the fuel pump sound so for all i know it might be normal. its like someone hitting a long metal beam with a hammer very far away. i am used to the buzzing sound on my other cars.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Crank sensor as others have said - there is no 'fallback' scenario if it fails as the engine has no idea of the position of the crank and thus no idea when to fire fuel or spark.

I don't *believe* it can raise a fault code either, but I might be wrong on that.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Most likely the crank position sensor, when dying they stop working when they get hot. Try waiting until it dies then spray cold water on the CPS. If it starts right up again that is your fault.
Richard, to spray the sensor do i have to get to it from the bottom of the car? thanks
 

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Premium Member
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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250 Posts
Definitely try the suggestion for the crank sensor that others have mentioned.

The reason why I asked about any codes is that I had symptoms VERY similar to yours. My code was P0562 (voltage low fault). Ended up being a connection going bad inside my fusebox that was the switched power feed to the fuel pump. Do you have a nanocom or faultmate? When it does happen, I would say to look at the battery voltage reported on the nanocom if you can.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It seems like it was the crank sensor, after scraping my right hand into a bloody mess in a 2 hour torture test i managed to replace it.

it ran fine for about 45 minutes until I shut it down. So hopefully that was it. thanks for the help!
 
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