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Discussion Starter #1
99 Bosch HSE . Want to change main crankshaft bearings. Can it be done without pulling the motor by doing under the Rover? She has been needing it, but not sure it can be done.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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In a word, YES! `) Would be fiddly as hell but I can't think of anything that would stop you.
 

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Yes. Howeer changing out the dowty washers and getting a proper torque on the cross bolts will be a HUGE pain. This is where you will definately want to raise by the frame and not the suspension. You will need every inch of space between the block and axle you can get.
 

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Might as well replace timing chain while you're at it as you will need to move timing cover to gain access to the front right cross bolt.

You will be needing a few new gaskets
 

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Well if you are changing the timing chain you may as well do the cam, lifters and top end. :roll:

Everything should be inspected and replaced upon proper measurements. If your budget allows for only bottom end ans you are happy with compression test, then just do bottom end parts. Next do the timing bits and lastly do top end. THe top end and valley can be done with no change in the rest of the engine. However, rings etc can NOT be done without stripping the top end. It is all a balance of check book and time.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Done plenty of bearing jobs and have yet to have to pull a motor.
Fidly at times for sure, but perfectly doable.

Martin
 

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Why do you want to change them? odd noises? Vibrations? - I'm struggeling with vibration in the driveline so I'm very eager to learn...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the responses. Yes, I do have a deep rattle on start up until oil pressure comes up. It was usually only noticeable in cold weather and would only do it after she sat for 3-4 hours. Now its summer and she rattles on start up and if she sits for about an hour, she will rattle some on start up. I changed the big end bearings that rattled on engine run over. Fixed that! The only other thing it could be would be cam bearing, but seems to be too deep of a knock for that.
 

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If you have a deep knock then I would pull motor as by now Im sure the cran has gone oval
If its was a barely audable knock I'd say just change bearings...depends
 

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Turpin said:
Thanks for all the responses. Yes, I do have a deep rattle on start up until oil pressure comes up. It was usually only noticeable in cold weather and would only do it after she sat for 3-4 hours. Now its summer and she rattles on start up and if she sits for about an hour, she will rattle some on start up. I changed the big end bearings that rattled on engine run over. Fixed that! The only other thing it could be would be cam bearing, but seems to be too deep of a knock for that.
How many miles do you have on your rig? What oil viscosity are you using? Have you tried dumping some engine honey in there (you know - the stuff that you buy in parts stores to stop smoke and knocking, thick as molasses, color of honey) - not suggesting it as even a short term fix but it would cushion the blows your bottom end is taking on start-up to prove or disprove that is what is happening.. Anyone care to chime in on what else it could be? Oil pump etc? I just fully rebuilt my motor after 130,000 hard miles plus massive overheat and crank was well within spec, bearings were worn to copper but still no knocking. When I say hard miles, I drive the a$$ out of this shiny black brick on and off road..
Have you considered cam lobes and/or lifters? They can sound truly aweful and echo throughout the block when messed up.
It is my experience of the Bosch motor that if the motor knocks as worn main bearings do under load, not only do you hear it but so do the knock sensors and as you floor it off the line, the power surges and then dies off and then builds back again as the timing retards and slowly advances back to prevent engine damage from what it thinks is top end pre-ignition. Does yours do this?
Dan.
 
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