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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

First post here... picking up my 2005 Tonga Green RR tomorrow. I was supposed to get a Maya Gold, but apparently they sold it too quickly, like the Green so no worries...Let me also say that this is a great site and I am very happy to have found it and very appreciative :mrgreen:

My RR came with an OEM RR roof-rack pre-installed on the roof. Since I have no need for it (yet at least and any time soon), I wanted my dealership to have it removed. I asked my salesman if they could remove the rack upon delivery of my car. The salesman responded that he could not remove the rack, because it is bolted down for good. He claims removing the rack will expose 8 huge (he pointed and claimed the holes were the size of about 3 or 4 inches in length/diameter? or the size of a donut hole) which would then lead to water damage into the roof and could not remove it. He said that he would drill the cross bars off though, if I wanted... call me insane, but is that a proper answer? Firstly, just because I do not want the rack installed on the roof, doesn't mean I want it destroyed with a drill. I asked him where the key was, he claimed the previous owner did not have the key for the cross bar and that was the only way to remove the cross bars. So there aren't replacement keys for the cross bars that could be ordered? And there is no way to remove the rack all together... I was under the impression that these racks where installed into some sort of factory holes (covered by rubber grommets perhaps above the roof lining?) and not drilled into the vehicle itself... in any case, if it is drilled to the roof (which I am sort of worried about) is there a way to fill these holes so "water doesn't leak into them" or am I screwed and the rack must stay on forever? Are the holes really that big that it would make a difference in terms of water leaking into them or aesthetics or is he exaggerating? I mean they ARE on thee roof, so nobody or myself included wouldn't even notice...I just find it strange that once a rack is installed it is not removable...

In any case, I did a search on the board and could not find any info on removal of a pre-installed OEM roof rack.. I hope somebody can chime in... I also apologize if my English is not up to par, it is not my first language.

Thanks in advance guys!
 
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I can't help you with how the rack is attached to the RR roof, as i haven't researched it enough. I can tell you though that your dealer wasn't lieing to you when he said drilling the crossbars was the only way to remove them.
I have contacted LRNA and LRUK with no luck. Identifying who made the rack and getting replacement keys seems impossible and the dealer is NO help. When removed, standard Thule lock cores will go back in, but you still have to drill the originals out.
There was a user on here who was very helpful in getting my a replacement key, but it's a long story why that didn't work out. Finding a key blank to get one cut is proving futile as well.
If I were you, drill out the crossbars and ;eave the rails on there. They're quite low profile, so it won't affect the aesthetics too much.
 

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2016.5 L405 HSE & 2020.5 L663 P400HSE
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I removed the OEM roof rack from my 2005 with no problem at all...however, there will be six holes left in the roof where the rack was mounted but I just put the existing screws back in until I can get the clips that go into the roof. I haven't had any leaking at all and actually I was told that there is a drain system in the roof the prevents that. The roof rack is mounted into the same track as the weather strips on the roof. I checked with the parts department at my local dealer to see if I could buy just the clips but they said that I would have to buy the weather strips for both sides because they don't have a part number for the clips to be sold seperately. I've uploaded a picture for you to see what the holes will look like once the roof rack has been removed...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Awesome! So it really isn't a big deal then to remove this roof rack eh?

This is the answer i've been looking for, thanks a lot! VERY much appreciated for that picture as well, amazing stuff...

I suppose this is a 5-10 min job? I mean you just unbolt/unscrew that's it?

:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
awesome! thanks.... now the only question remains is if I can sell this roof rack.. and if so how much? I have no idea how much they are worth, but I am assuming quite a bit since it is LR heh.. :?
 

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05RR said:
awesome! thanks.... now the only question remains is if I can sell this roof rack.. and if so how much? I have no idea how much they are worth, but I am assuming quite a bit since it is LR heh.. :?
I'm not sure what it would be worth but I donated mine to a local collision center.
 
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resell the rack for $100 and then go to Land Rover and order two new rain guard rails. Remove your current ones and gently remove the flaps (these cover the holes) from the new ones. Spary paint the to match the color of your Rover and slide them into your orginal rain rails. Bingo sealed units again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks again guys... just couple more questions..

in that pic... is that insulation around the screw? or actual roof or? There is no way for water to get in there? If not, then are the rain/weather guards even necessary to buy?

Also, you said to unbolt them, do I need a special tool or just an allen key or ratchett set (sp).. ?
 

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Yes, you will need a special tool (T40)...i'm not sure what it's called but I think it's used for security reasons...just look at the head of the screw and you will see that it's not a regular allen head. There's no insullation there, just be sure to put the existing screws back in after you take the rack off so that water can't enter the holes. I haven't had any leaking problems with mine but I'm looking for the plugs so I don't have to buy that entire weather strip for both sides. If you could sale the rack after you take it off then I guess you could use that money to buy new weather strips for the rails.
 
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FFRR05DUKE said:
Yes, you will need a special tool (T40)...i'm not sure what it's called but I think it's used for security reasons...just look at the head of the screw and you will see that it's not a regular allen head. There's no insullation there, just be sure to put the existing screws back in after you take the rack off so that water can't enter the holes. I haven't had any leaking problems with mine but I'm looking for the plugs so I don't have to buy that entire weather strip for both sides. If you could sale the rack after you take it off then I guess you could use that money to buy new weather strips for the rails.
It's called a security torx.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torx
 
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05RR said:
okay thanks.... the security torx can be bought at say home depot I suppose?
Not sure about that. You can pick up regular torx at any place that sells auto parts. The security torx are hollow as the security bolt has a "pin" in the middle. They are available, but they're harder to get hold of. That's why they're security I guess. You can find them if you look hard enough.
 

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Mr. Range Rover said:
05RR said:
okay thanks.... the security torx can be bought at say home depot I suppose?
Not sure about that. You can pick up regular torx at any place that sells auto parts. The security torx are hollow as the security bolt has a "pin" in the middle. They are available, but they're harder to get hold of. That's why they're security I guess. You can find them if you look hard enough.
Yeah, most places that sell auto parts will have them but you my have to check a few places to find the security torx...I actually got a set from PepBoys but you could check with Home Depot as well.
 

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Mr. Range Rovers post above is more than correct. I recently removed my entire rack system for powder coating. The dealer was not helpful at all in ordering replecement keys and my email reply from THULE said that they did not make that rack. Anyhow. I used a key from another set of THULE racks i have and while the key did not fit perfectly, it did turn all the cylinders. One problem i had with removing the crossbars was the allen screws on the top edge of each side of the crossbar were rusted in place so i had to drill them out and monkey around with fabricating replacement parts for that. In addition the cylinders needed much lubrication before removaltoo. Overall a real pain, however the finished result was worth it.

As for the security torx, when i looked, home depot did not carry them, ended up purchasing a set from NAPA.

As for water leaking, i drove for a couple of months during the winter with the roof rack removed and the holes exposed and had not had any leakage at all.
 
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mswacha said:
Mr. Range Rovers post above is more than correct. I recently removed my entire rack system for powder coating. The dealer was not helpful at all in ordering replecement keys and my email reply from THULE said that they did not make that rack. Anyhow. I used a key from another set of THULE racks i have and while the key did not fit perfectly, it did turn all the cylinders. One problem i had with removing the crossbars was the allen screws on the top edge of each side of the crossbar were rusted in place so i had to drill them out and monkey around with fabricating replacement parts for that. In addition the cylinders needed much lubrication before removaltoo. Overall a real pain, however the finished result was worth it.

As for the security torx, when i looked, home depot did not carry them, ended up purchasing a set from NAPA.

As for water leaking, i drove for a couple of months during the winter with the roof rack removed and the holes exposed and had not had any leakage at all.
Wow, that's a surprise. Most people who quote me and mention my name are just trying to tell me and the rest of the forum how much of an moron i'm being.

It's interesting what you said about another set of THULE keys fitting and working (to a degree). I contacted them and gave them the LR001 number from the key barrels. They were helpful and said that they could try a set of N001 keys (all thule systems use N designated locks) for $5. i figuresd it was worth a shot. When I got them they were kind enough to have put in a few others too for me to try. Anyway, long story longer, none of them would even fit in the barrels, let alone turn them.
Maybe I need to try again with a BFG.
Thanks.
 

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2016.5 L405 HSE & 2020.5 L663 P400HSE
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Mr. Range Rover said:
mswacha said:
Mr. Range Rovers post above is more than correct. I recently removed my entire rack system for powder coating. The dealer was not helpful at all in ordering replecement keys and my email reply from THULE said that they did not make that rack. Anyhow. I used a key from another set of THULE racks i have and while the key did not fit perfectly, it did turn all the cylinders. One problem i had with removing the crossbars was the allen screws on the top edge of each side of the crossbar were rusted in place so i had to drill them out and monkey around with fabricating replacement parts for that. In addition the cylinders needed much lubrication before removaltoo. Overall a real pain, however the finished result was worth it.

As for the security torx, when i looked, home depot did not carry them, ended up purchasing a set from NAPA.

As for water leaking, i drove for a couple of months during the winter with the roof rack removed and the holes exposed and had not had any leakage at all.
Wow, that's a surprise. Most people who quote me and mention my name are just trying to tell me and the rest of the forum how much of an moron i'm being.

It's interesting what you said about another set of THULE keys fitting and working (to a degree). I contacted them and gave them the LR001 number from the key barrels. They were helpful and said that they could try a set of N001 keys (all thule systems use N designated locks) for $5. i figuresd it was worth a shot. When I got them they were kind enough to have put in a few others too for me to try. Anyway, long story longer, none of them would even fit in the barrels, let alone turn them.
Maybe I need to try again with a BFG.
Thanks.

:) I guess you're good for something after all, Mr. Range...I'm proud of you...keep up the good work and relax a little man :dance:
 

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Mr. Range Rover said:
mswacha said:
Mr. Range Rovers post above is more than correct. I recently removed my entire rack system for powder coating. The dealer was not helpful at all in ordering replecement keys and my email reply from THULE said that they did not make that rack. Anyhow. I used a key from another set of THULE racks i have and while the key did not fit perfectly, it did turn all the cylinders. One problem i had with removing the crossbars was the allen screws on the top edge of each side of the crossbar were rusted in place so i had to drill them out and monkey around with fabricating replacement parts for that. In addition the cylinders needed much lubrication before removaltoo. Overall a real pain, however the finished result was worth it.

As for the security torx, when i looked, home depot did not carry them, ended up purchasing a set from NAPA.

As for water leaking, i drove for a couple of months during the winter with the roof rack removed and the holes exposed and had not had any leakage at all.
Wow, that's a surprise. Most people who quote me and mention my name are just trying to tell me and the rest of the forum how much of an moron i'm being.

It's interesting what you said about another set of THULE keys fitting and working (to a degree). I contacted them and gave them the LR001 number from the key barrels. They were helpful and said that they could try a set of N001 keys (all thule systems use N designated locks) for $5. i figuresd it was worth a shot. When I got them they were kind enough to have put in a few others too for me to try. Anyway, long story longer, none of them would even fit in the barrels, let alone turn them.
Maybe I need to try again with a BFG.
Thanks.

As for what you said regarding the keys, the one that i found that fit the barrels came from an old THULE (circa late 1980's) rack system i originally bought for a Saab 900T. i lubricated the barrel very well, inserted the key and was able to turn it slowly with a pair of pliers. they were pretty corroded. in addition they all unlocked and relocked using that same method. it astounds me how the dealer did not try to help me to order keys, they told me to go to a locksmith. :shock:
 
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mswacha said:
As for what you said regarding the keys, the one that i found that fit the barrels came from an old THULE (circa late 1980's) rack system i originally bought for a Saab 900T. i lubricated the barrel very well, inserted the key and was able to turn it slowly with a pair of pliers. they were pretty corroded. in addition they all unlocked and relocked using that same method. it astounds me how the dealer did not try to help me to order keys, they told me to go to a locksmith. :shock:
They told me to drill them out.

I explained that wasn't an acceptable response for a $70,000 vehicle in need of a $5 key.

They told me that if I wasn't capable of doing it, I could take it in and they could do it (insert snidey and smug tone here). I expalined as a Mechanical Engineer I could do it, I just don't think I should have to.
 
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