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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My dad passed away on New Years 19 very quickly from cancer, in fact 6 hours after we were told, he left behind his “beast” Range Rover p38 1996. It had sat in his car park for a year, run out monthly. My brother, sister and I cannot let it go and I’ve been given the car to manage, we are late 30’s, my sister want to use it to be close to dad and my brother for fishing at his spots with dad 😔 Generally the last couple of weeks it has driven like a dream then it started cutting out while driving. I’ve changed the fuel filter taken it out and the same thing happened again, got to local Land Rover garage and diagnosis is camshaft sensor. The garage cannot source this from Land Rover and along with a service believe it’s not worth starting until we get the part. They had also quoted 208 each.
When I go on eBay they are so much cheaper but I want to make sure I can
get hold of the right one. I’m new to this, having only been a woman driver in a Clio!!! Can anyone help? I’m based in West London. Don’t want to let my dad and siblings down, but feel I’m losing the battle with this. Thanks in advance
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Sorry to hear about your late father. Was he a member of this forum or any other forums that you know of? If so what was his moniker?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi Dave, Thanks for your reply. No dad wasn’t a member. Excellent mechanic that just always seemed to know the answers!! Jo
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Sorry to hear of the circumstances in which you've ended up with the RR - but I am sure you will get to love it and all it's quirks!

I agree with Richard_G - the crank position sensor is usually the culprit if the engine is cutting out. A quick test if it is the crankshaft sensor is that when it cuts out, try pouring water on the sensor to cool it down and then start up again. If that works, then it's the crank sensor.

The camshaft sensor very rarely fails, but the sometimes it will get oil or other contamination in the connector, and this can cause it to give a bad reading. However, it shouldn't cause the engine to cut out - you would probably get a fault, but the engine would still run as the crank sensor is the used for the timing of the ignition. So if that drops out, then no timing/ignition, no engine running.

I'd start with the crank sensor and go from there. If they fail completely then the engine won't start at all.
 

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I went round today with my nanocom. Maf and tps readings appear good. Iacv may need some cleaning/ adjusting (8 steps). Ltft was v weird -minus 160 pc. I tried to reset adaptive values several times, but cdnt get the ltft to reset. Idles nicely around 700.
No error recorded in ECM. I didnt test drive, but dads beast had just brought it home and had no issues. Spare cmp and ckp on order to hold as spares in case.

Tayna battery had been recharged, and alternator doing about 13.7v at idle

No discernible coolant level or colour, so may need to be drained and refilled. Running temp was holding steady though
 

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If it didn't do it while you were there, it certainly does sound like the crank sensor failing when it gets hot. You can't reset adaptives if less than 1/4 tank of fuel but sometimes I've seen -160 when it's correct, if it's running OK I'd ignore it. As you say, IACV could probably do with a clean and the cooling system given a back flush and refill. I backflushed the heater matrix on the Ascot when I first got it and what came out looked like oxtail soup!
 

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"You can't reset adaptives if less than 1/4 tank of fuel"

doh!

Nano read 0.84V out of 5, for the fuel tank... so that was it
 
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