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Discussion Starter #1
Yesterday I was putting on new brake pads and caliper guide pins. Everything was going like a dream until the last one (Figures!) The top guide pin on the RH side front brake was frozen solid. Tried twisting it with a wrench, hitting it with a hammer, and trying to get it to budge with a C-clamp with no luck.

My question is: any other recommendations? I was thinking about heating the metal of the caliper carrier to try to get it to move or drilling it to try and weaken it enough to pull out. I guess the last ditch effort would be to buy that part and replace it.

My worry is that only the inner pad, controlled by the pistons, is doing all the work and I'm not getting the full benefit of that front brake.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 

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you dont want to know how much that caliper mounting bracket is . . . :shock: . . . well, i nearly fell of my seat when i went looking and found it on an online place.


i'd try and buy a new set of guide pins and bolts and replace them all . . . its worth it. As you say, what happens is that one side does all the work.

As for getting the old ones out . . . i think i used a set of mole grips and whilst standing on the mounting backet tried to twist off the pin to loosen it . . . mine dont seem as 'seized' as yours do. I do remember using tons of penertraing fluid etc to try and in at it.


I wouldn't recommend drilling it . . . cause if it goes wrong, see the first line of my reply. :)


The heat method is a good idea. Pump some serious heat onto the bracket ( i expect it'll take a good bit of heat ) and then blast the pin with something really cold to thermally shock the join. You can get aerosols which are meant to rapidly cool things when they are sprayed on.


But as I already said, new guide pins and bolts all round is a really good idea to do if you can ( esp in the UK ). Makes the whole caliper setup much better ... esp if your come to removing them at a later date.
 

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I think in this case, PB blaster and heat are your best options.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'll have to give it a try this weekend. Thanks for the advice so far.

I have replaced all of the other guide pins so far. It's just that I got stuck trying to finish this one. The rest of them were a piece of cake.

I'll keep you upadated on progress.
 

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footdoc. I recently had a similar problem on our trooper calipers. If you have turned the bolt and it broke, even if it did not, you can drill a hole from the back side of the carrier which would be large enough to use a punch and pound it out from the back side. It also means that you could apply release fluid from the back side as well. And I think a combination of heat, penetrating oil and the punch will do the trick. Use a grease nipple as a guage for the maximum size of hole you can drill and tap to accept the nipple or 1/8 National pipe thread and a 1/8th pipe plug....available at Home Depot in the Plumbing section, brasscraft makes one. I actually broke 3 of 4 on the trooper rears and got each one out this way. I would suggest that you turn the bolt until it breaks so you can remove the carrier from the caliper without disconnecting the brake line and work on the carrier on the bench. I don't know if beating on it in place would be a good thing. Let us know the result because I'm sure that I will meet the same fate. TIA
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That's a pretty good idea. I actually got the caliper guide pin bolt out, it's the pin that is stuck. The caliper can be freed, so taking the carrier off shouldn't be a problem.....as long as I can plug the hole again.

Fisha - I saw the price of the carrier at AB - typical genuine parts price for a seemingly simple part. Especially when the rear is way less than half the price. All that money and no moving parts!

To be continued...................
 

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My previous post left a little to be desired. If I read your post correctly the guide bolt broke so the pin part of the bolt is still in the carrier. Drill a hole in the back side of the carrier. You do not have to be perfectly aligned but be as close as you can so the punch will touch most of the end of the pin. Use a 1/8 national pipe thread plug as a guide to determining the max size of the drill you should use. then once the pin is out you can tap the drilled hole with a 1/8 pipe tap, clean your work and screw in the plug to seal the hole you made. I suppose a bit of loctite on the thread would ensure that no moisture could get in and cause fresh rusting.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just an update....heated the carrier with a torch, got it to twist, and convinced it the rest of the way with a hammer, and out she came.

Cleaned out the hole with emery paper and put it all back together. Everything works as it should.

Thanks, as always, for your help
 
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