[Highflyer]

Hi
My p38 diesel has locked me out from starting the engine. I last locked it with the key rather than the fob. I have a code for the EKA which I used 2 days earlier to get it to start. Now it just asks me to press remote to start. The previous time it included the EKA in the dash message. Is it possible to bypass the fuel pump and have it run......I can get the starter motor to run using its relay switch. Or is there some other way to get it sorted. Thanks in advance.
John

 

[Richard_G]

Try the EKA again, if it worked before it should work again. Has anyone been into the BeCM with diagnostics? There is an option to disable EKA, if you do that, simply unlocking it does the same as entering the code. However, not having much experience with the diesel models, I did turn passive immobilisation off on an early diesel and it would no longer start, had to be turned back on again.

 

[Highflyer]

Tried that but it didn't work. The message on the dash doesnt ask for the EKA either. If I could get the fuel pump to turn on I probably can get it started as I've got the starter motor to turn over.
J

 

[annette]

Not a good idea to disable EKA, just unlocking won't work if one of your Other locks is slightly dodgy.
Do the side repeater lights flash when you go through EKA? If not try again in an hour, pressing your lock button down during the first 4 locks.
If you have still no.light, you have a dodgy door lock.
Talk to marty_nz

If you have lights EKA will work.
If it still doesn't start..
There is check procedure for non starters for the diesel in the electrical manual,

Did you try this? Does the pump relay click?

Please go through this.

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[Highflyer]

Side repeaters flash when I open door, with the key, initially and each time I lock the door when I'm inputting the EKA code. They then flash when I unlock the first key turn but not the rest of them. When I put the code in the previous successful time the lights on the dash lit each time but thats not happening now.
Where is the pump relay located. Would it be possible to activate it to get the engine started?
J

 

[kretslopp]

No you won’t get it started by locating the “pump relay”. As if the fuel injection pump is electric like petrol engines.

If the BECM doesn’t want the engine to start you won’t get the engine ECU operating properly.

So even if you activate the starter externally and apply 12V to the stop solenoid on the fuel injection pump and run the lift pump in the fuel tank (there you have a relay you can bypass though it’s not the “relay” you asked for) the car won’t start since the fuel injection pump is electronic and not mechanical and relies on the engine ecu.

 

[Richard_G]

Silly comment and I suspect I know what the answer is going to be but if the dash is telling you to press remote, press the unlock button on the remote (fob). Just because you last locked it with the key, it will still unlock with the fob. This does assume you have a working fob of course. If not, you only have yourself to blame, it was going to happen sooner or later.

 

[Highflyer]

Well I pressed remote fob many times and it's working properly.........red light flashes and when I plug it in and try to start the red light flashes every second or so. Can i ask why I only have myself to blame and why it was going to happen sooner or later.
J

 

[Richard_G]

I did say that you only had yourself to blame if the fob didn't work. So many people have had no working fob and then wonder why the car locks them out when a latch microswitch fails. If yours works, and the fact that the LED flashes when you put it in the ignition, passive immobilisation is on and it is doing everything it should. That only leaves the fob and car having lost sync. Problem now is that in order to sync it the car needs to be unlocked and mobilised. At the moment it may be unlocked but it appears to be immobilised so you won't be able to sync it anyway. Does the central locking still work? Your mention of the lights flashing when you lock but not when you unlock, suggests the CDL switch in the drivers door latch has failed.

 

[Highflyer]

All doors lock and unlock as normal with the key.
J

 

[Highflyer]

The indicator lights work when I unlock and when I lock. But when I try the EKA they flash only when I lock.
J

 

[Richard_G]

You are giving it the 4 turns to lock to put it into EKA accept mode first aren't you? It's 4 turns to lock then enter the first digit of the EKA towards unlock. If you are entering the first digit to lock and the first digit of the EKA is less than 4, it will ignore any turns to unlock as it isn't in EKA accept mode yet.

 

[annette]

The remote may have lost sync. Press the lock button, while keeping the button pressed, lock car , wait 15 secs turn fob to the left, wait another 15 secs and then retrieve key.

Remember to keep the button pressed.

This is something I learned here and it works every time if you still have your original BECM or cloned it correctly.

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[Highflyer]

Neither of those options worked but ill keep at it.
J

 

[annette]

Test your door latch as described in the Marty's sticky.
Please go through every one, the Sherlock can be simply disconnected if you want to play it safe

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[annette]

Sorry I am on my phone and I can't edit my post I wanted to say superlock

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[Highflyer]

Kept at it yesterday and eventually it went into keycode lockout. Put the keycode in after 30 minutes wait and engine made an attempt to start but I had run battery down. Charged it up but then same old story. Got it into keycode lockout again today and am waiting few mins more. Will let ye know if she starts.?
J

 

[Highflyer]

Started after input of the keycode. Drove it 3.5 miles. Key didnt synchronise though. Stopped it and started it again. Going to check if it starts again now after rest for 10 minutes.
J

 

[Highflyer]

I suspected it wouldn't start and it didn't. Managed to get it to ask for keycode again by opening and closing doors and locking it at same time. Many times so not sure what worked. Anyway got it started again but still no fob synchronisation. ?????

 

[Richard_G]

Either CDL or Key switch microswitch in the drivers door latch has died. You need to follow Marty's sticky for testing door latches and then, almost certainly, go to Marty's website for a refurbished door latch.