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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I this is my first post, thanks for reading!


I am about to join RRC family but I am having hard time finding a usable RRC, of any year. I live in Dominican and just 3~4 RRC on sale every year, must of them are worn and no working t-case, but, they are cheap, can be have for USD 1k, some needs to tow, some not, I have storage place, my idea is to combine two or three of them to one usable truck and have plenty of spare parts.


I can do most of repair myself, just like almost everybody else here..


currently my find are:


vehicle #1, $1300 USD. OCT/1994 plate green RRC LWB.
Strong 4.2 LPG'd engine, but bad tcase, transmission shift harsh and badly converted from EAS to coil, interior 5/10, multiple errors lights but strangely no leak inside, and just PS fluid leak. drives horroble as springs are borrowed from other vehicle, and rear spring are different. no front propshaft as indication of worn viscous unit on t-case, other than that looks accident free and no sign of offroad use and light rust, when I made test drive it couldn't move out of low range, and all 4 wheels has diferent size of tyres ranging from 235/16, 245/16, 255/16 and last 265/16. the odometer is working and says 77k miles...


vehicle #2, $1300 USD. (possible donor) is a green 1996 disco 1.
I believe it has good LT230 t-case, but owner told me that he tood off the front propshaft, and didn't tell me why, and owner wants 1.3k usd, it runs, but I haven't see it in person, photos attached. I could borrow from this donor LT230, front propshaft, spare engine, axle, some regulator?


vehicle #3, $1600 USD. (possible donor, or use this one?) white 1986 RRC stock MANUAL 5 speed.
Good 4x4, with replaced engine at 2011, owner showed me a extensive list of replacement parts on last 4 years including PS pump, radiator, clutch, but no engine problem, it come with one set of 2" lift spring and the stock spring, but bad interior, no carpet, hard dashboard, other than that looks usable. Currently doing head gasket and other seals at shop.


vehicle #4, $1100 USD, black 1990 RRC runing only on LPG, worn t-case and missing front propshaft, currently on paint shop, owner is tired of it and parting it.


In this small tropical island rust isn't much a problem, we have +30C all year around, but most of RRC are improperly maintained, killing most of their souls...


My need is some light offroad, and for 4 adult, 2 small kids, I was looking into RRC and discovery, preferably RRC LWB, but a disco 1 might work for me..


Thank you very much for reading, any, any comments are welcome, please help me to enter RRC world!


as cars are moving on sales, I will update this post and photos time by time, until I find my truck!


photo album: https://goo.gl/photos/7JxkSCXb47Ew9hL66
 

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Vehicle #1 is a "1995" Model year, Long Wheel Base (10/94 build date). I prefer the utility of the LWB's 8-inch-longer wheel base. This one also looks the most complete, however, many interior parts are unique to 1995's and may be very difficult to find/replace. Sort the springs and tires, swap the t-case and you may have a decent truck.

Vehicle #3 white RRC also looks decent if you are comfortable re-doing the interior. A manual trans, carb-V8 is a very simple truck.

Whatever you do, go grab that front bumper off #4 black RRC - looks like it may be heavy duty if you drive off-road.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Vehicle #1 is a "1995" Model year, Long Wheel Base (10/94 build date). I prefer the utility of the LWB's 8-inch-longer wheel base. This one also looks the most complete, however, many interior parts are unique to 1995's and may be very difficult to find/replace. Sort the springs and tires, swap the t-case and you may have a decent truck...
Definitely 1995 MY, the confusing thing as that many of the '95s were manufactured and delivered in 1994. ISTR these were all LWBs, and SWBs, were made and delivered starting in January of 1995.

As Tom mentioned, the 1995s, aka, softdash, have many parts that are unique to 1995 and are much more difficult to find, if not impossible. For example, the HK speaker grilles are more or less impossible to find, though 3d printing may be an option.

At any rate, it doesn't sound like you're interested in doing a Concours level restoration, so I wouldn't sweat those Unicorn issues. For 4 adults and 2 small children, you definitely want a LWB. It's amazing what a difference another 10 inches does for the rear passengers.

I second Tom's assessment as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, It is possible to retrofit the EAS on vehicle #1? using p38's EAS components? how different are the air spring of RRC and P38? I think using EAS as an advantage of RRC LWB, because if, maintained correctly, it is the best feature of RRC,

When I test drive the vehicle #1, I feel the brake is so weak, later examining the photos, I see the master brake cylinder is kind of weird, I guess it's a adaptation from other vehicle? is all 1995 LWB come with TC and ABS?
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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1,485 Posts
Thanks, It is possible to retrofit the EAS on vehicle #1? using p38's EAS components? how different are the air spring of RRC and P38? I think using EAS as an advantage of RRC LWB, because if, maintained correctly, it is the best feature of RRC,

When I test drive the vehicle #1, I feel the brake is so weak, later examining the photos, I see the master brake cylinder is kind of weird, I guess it's a adaptation from other vehicle? is all 1995 LWB come with TC and ABS?
Anything's possible, but you may also want to consider a third party option, like Accuair.

The '95 LWB is missing the ABS pump, so of course the brakes will feel weird. If all the parts are there and working, the brakes will be firm. Once you get used to it, you won't be able to handle anything else, at least, that's what happened to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok, car pool update:

Vehicle #1 1995 LWB one has registration problem and needs US 1k extra to re-registry the car.
Vehic;e #3 white manual one the shop messed up on the head job re-assembly and virtually destroyed the engine. now the owner is waiting for my offer (with the engine dead), how much can I offer to him? If I am going to replace the engine, I could want to go for a smaller, cheaper one, or buy the vehicle #2 black 1990 one and take the engine off... or

buy the #2, and #1, use #2's registration plate and t-case, spring, here we don't have annual MOT (just when the car is going to transfer to new owner)so as long as I don't sell the truck, I can use the white one registration plate...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update, added vehicle #5 $800 USD, 1991 vogue SE 129k miles, owner passed away in 2009 and his truck has been sitting on the garage ever since, owner family is selling as-is, it looks pretty clean engine bay, virtually no rust. Interior are also acceptable, the one takes risks of all or nothing, the vehicle needs to be towed away...
 
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