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Discussion Starter #1
Hi

My 1998 P38 HSE has blown a head gasket, got no idea why
I have a chance to buy a low mileage (100k miles) 2000 P38 HSE at a good price
It has been standing in a garage for 8 years, not been started once
Will change engine oil and filter before trying to start it
Probably gearbox and diff oils as well

What other pitfalls are there?
Besides making sure all or most electrics work
It is down on bump stops, to be expected, I can use compressor, valve block, airbags etc from my 1998 one, if need be

William
 

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Probably everything made of rubber will need to be changed, air springs and tyres being the most important.
 

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I would also refresh all the seals in the valve block, take a hard look at the tires, new battery, change brake fluid, change coolant, check hoses for air/fluid leaks, grease axels, drain old gas, check for leaks at water pump. Those are just a few I can think of but I’m sure the more learned P38 intelligencia will chime in.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks
I have a spare valve block, compressor, shocks and air bags, also 5 almost new A/T tyres
All fluids will be changed BEFORE I try to start it, it is at a dealer at the moment
I want to do the least before I drive it 100km home, then I can work on it
Water pump might leak, I know how to replace one
As mentioned, I have a PERFECT P38 at home with a blown head gasket - for spares
Main thing is getting her going and driving her to her new home, SLOWLY, with frequent stops
 

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Depending upon the quality of the petrol that was left in it, moisture in the tank, etc.
You may find it will need a new fuel pump. They do not like to stand for that long without turning.
Not a tough repair, and if it needs changing, you will also be sure the tank is clean.
 

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Hi

My 1998 P38 HSE has blown a head gasket, got no idea why
I have a chance to buy a low mileage (100k miles) 2000 P38 HSE at a good price
It has been standing in a garage for 8 years, not been started once
Will change engine oil and filter before trying to start it
Probably gearbox and diff oils as well

What other pitfalls are there?
Besides making sure all or most electrics work
It is down on bump stops, to be expected, I can use compressor, valve block, airbags etc from my 1998 one, if need be

William
Mine had been standing still for almost 8 years, I was in doubt regarding the gearbox and transfer case, but everything worked absolutely perfect!! Even the tyres didn't had flat spots on them.

I bought mine for $400, but the heads and radiator were missing and it had a slipped liner.

I took on a sunday afternoon the brake calipers apart to make them fresh again, but this wasn't really neccesary, all was surprisingly in good shape...

It even ran on the 8 year old petrol..
 

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My P38 had one big issue, it was big challenge to get the wheels off!!!

The alloy rims corroded stuck around the hubs, took me about 30 minutes to get one wheel off.

Best way to go is to put a hydraulic trolley jack flat, jack the wheel of the ground you want to take off, put trolley jack between wheels, with pieces of wood, and slowly push the wheel off, so jacking off, but not in a fun way. ;) (sorry, had to do it)
 

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Oh yeah, check the exhaust, mine was completley rusted away, but the car had been standing close to a salt water river / sea.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all the advice, I have a 2001 P38 as well that I use to tow the boat
The fuel pump just clicks and won't pump
Will have to get it home and cut a trap door, can't use fuel pump from donor car as Bosch and Lucas are different
 

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Thought it could be......
Before you attack with a grinder, I would seriously consider the VERY easy job of just dropping the tank out the bottom?
I have done this on 3 RRs and it is not difficult. I use a trolley jack with a small square of plywood to lower and raise the tank.When you are done, you will not then have a hole for dust and muck to enter from the bottom. As a bonus, you can inspect and clean the area normally covered by the tank.
 
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