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Hello,

So just as the post says I am buying a neglected Rover today with only 75,000 mile. It is a 2004 Range Rover HSE. It Runs and Drive and I am only getting it for $2500. Known issues are ofcourse the EAS has stopped working, which I know is typical around this age and mileage. There is a small leak in the engine bay. Looks like a bit of oil from the back of the block, and just some cosmetic things.

Overall I just need to know what are the first things I should do. I want to of course build this vehicle back up, as it deserves to be loved again, and honestly is still in great shape. My first things are to flush just about everything I can oil, coolant, etc. But what else should I look for or service ASAP before attempting to really get her back on the road.

I appreciate the time of you fellow Rover Lovers!

Thanks
 

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Same as any other other neglected vehicle. Change the fluids, do all standard maintenance, change transmission fluid and filter, inspect everything end to end and assume nothing. You will need diagnostic equipment at least for the EAS and generic engine codes.
 

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That oil may be from the pcv set up at the rear of the engine. I believe they accumulate water (condensation). When the temps get to freezing the water freezes and plugs the line, then the pressure builds and a leak pops. I think I remember it correctly. You'll need to do a search on that one. Bet of luck!
 

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I would also suggest to do an intake refresh,
including the valley pan and the PVC plate and the rear water bridge gaskets and the short cooling hose,
the water pump, and the cooling bottle,
install a lower temp M60 thermostat.
Change the trans fluid and filter,
look for my article on 2005 trans service
 

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Great score at that price! I prefer to buy vehicles like that, knowing the work I do to freshen them up is all done properly.

I am still humming and hawing about diagnostics. Will probably wait for a suitable fault to force my hand.

What clues do you have so far about the EAS?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey everyone! Thank you so much for the responses.

So I went to pick up the rover tonight, and it actually was a lot better than what I thought. It was maintained even while sitting. Ran at least once every week or so. When I got there the EAS was keeping the vehicle up. Of course it had a hard fault and was not allowing any movement, but I was under the impression it was on the bump stops up front. I truly lucked out on this one, but am not taking any chances.

I already bought and received one of the simple diagnostics tools for the EAS (iSaddle BMW Scanner 1.4.0) to use with the PA Soft 1.4, as I did not want to spend money on a regular one without more investigation. I will want to buy a real one that will do everything I want it to do, from EAS calibration to programming just about any function I want. I will investigate this more, and will not insult you all with asking, as I have already seen dozens of posts on it haha.

Again thank you all for the input, I am currently ordering proper fluids and filters for this particular BMW engine, and will hopefully have her purring soon.

Just so you know after I was told the info, I did drive her home, it was only 5 miles, and she honestly rode great. For $2500 to be able to drive home I am a happy man so far, but will not drive again until I change just about everything I can change haha.

Cheers.
 

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+ 1 on the PCV overhaul.

You may want to consider replacing the radiator and the battery. When I bought my 03' a year and a half ago (for $3,500), those were two items I didn't think mattered and I realized how important a new charged battery and unrestricted radiator actually are to the overall health of these vehicles.

I saw on the maintenance records the radiator was only two years old so I figured it was fine. For a while I got a "Torque Converter Lock Up Clutch" code and drove myself crazy replacing solenoids in the transmission and researching end to end online. It wasn't until a year later when I kept getting stuck in 2nd gear that I realized the lower 8 rows of the radiator were completely blocked with sediment and since the transmission cooler line gets its coolant from the bottom of the radiator, my transmission was overheating and causing the computer to not let it shift past 2nd. Long story short, replaced the radiator and transmission no longer gets stuck in 2nd. However, I suspect for a year the transmission was getting hot enough to cause the hard 2 to 1 downshift (Lock up clutch solenoid code) but not hot enough to trigger the 2nd gear overheat mode.

Additionally, I thought the battery was fine and if I let the truck sit for 2-3 days the battery would die. For the longest time I thought there was just a really bad drain, and since I replaced the battery (with the gel/optima kind), I have never had an issue leaving it for a few days. You will also see on this forum that there are a lot of other issues and codes that can be caused by having a low battery.

My recommendation is if you do not know when these items were last replaced and you plan on keeping it for a while, get new ones now and save yourself the aggravation!

Also, pay attention to the fluids. You should have the blue coolant (the regular green can cause issued), and your power steering and transmission fluids are different than most cars so get the right ones before you replace. Also, definitely do a transmission flush & new filter.
 

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The leak is most likely the valve cover gasket. EAS system could be battery related or a leak in the system. It is a M62 engine and they always leak.

The rest of the suggestions are correct - at 75k and 14 years old a complete fluid refresh is warranted. I would also change the PCV system and all related hoses. I would also do the valve cover gaskets (if one side is leaking the other side is not far behind), all the rubber valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, remove the intake and do the valley pan and replace with the URO part (it is the best one). While at it do the intake seals as mentioned.

Backing up - you need a plan and a budget. If you have a $500 budget you should be able to do it right. You want to take everything off once. If you do the valley pan gasket you have to remove the intake - at this point you are at the point where changing out all the items mentioned by others is easy and logical (including the coolant).

The water bridge gaskets are not expensive, but are kinda a pain - still easy enough. Do them as the coolant will be out. If you do the valley pan then use a wet dry vac or turkey baster to suck out all the coolant you can that is pooled up. You can stick the tool you are using way back in the back to get out more fluid.

Now if you don't have the budget to do it all at once you want to stop the leak and check the condition of your hoses then drive it until you are ready to go at it and of course sort out your EAS issue. It is possible you will find items have been changed or just as likely the car has not had anything serviced.
 
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