I added some pics for this process and followed all the instructions here http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-...ood-release-cable-wire-broken-handle-how.html
, thanks to Brad s1. I did this on my 2004 L322 TD6 Vogue which has 130,000 km on the clock. This was easier than expected and took about 1.5 hours.
Some additional tips, from me.
I did not have to cut into the hood release sheath, as I could pull on the 1cm exposed part of the cable that was visible (see section 4).
The part number for the cable was FPF500050 (see pics 7 and 8) and costs £15 from www.britishparts.co.uk
(I emailed them to get the part number as it does not show up in the standard parts list).
1) This is the first thing that you need to take off, the floor trim. Underside is shown here with the white poppers exposed. I used the orange flathead screwdriver to pop it up by inserting the screw driver from the inside (carpet side) of the car. I forgot to take a picture of the hood release interior surround, which is already removed and was on the left of this picture.
2) This is the foot rest platform that just pops off, on the left you can see the metal connector and screw thread where the internal hood release surround screws into (bottom left).
3) Here is a picture of what the handle looks like when the hood release surround is removed. Again you can see where the surround was screwed into. Then I pulled back the carpet in the foot well
4) I folded the carpet back, you can see the white backing and then put it underneath the brake pedal. The carpet kept on springing back so I used the wrench with extender (top right in the pic) to hold it into place while I worked on and pulled out the old and broken hood release cable. This is the long black cable going into the rubber grommet/seal in the bulkhead. If you look under the release puller, where my thumb is pointing you can see the broken wire. As explained in the previous post you just pull the sheath plus cable out once you have removed the other end of the cable from the coupler in the engine bay (see pic 4). You can see the two bottom screws which need to be removed underneath the puller plus there is one above but behind the puller on this picture.
4) Below is a picture of the coupler in the engine bay. This housing pops open by pushing down on the latches that you see on the top of the plastic coupler housing. The cable couplings are inside the plastic housing (where my fingers are pointing). The coupler you remove is the one on the left (stating the obvious) . This wire/coupling was not the easiest to remove. My technique was to insert a small nail in the right hand side of the coupler and lever/push this outwards and upwards and then to pull up the wire side. Otherwise if you do not do this from both sides it gets wedged in if you only pull up the cable side.
5) This is a picture of the route of the old black hood cable underneath the brake fluid tank (top left) and the cable is from bottom right (underneath the pink looking electrical cable) going down towards the middle of the picture.
6) Once you have undone the coupling in the engine bay (you can see the location of the top screw in this picture and the two bottom ones for the cable holder) and pulled the old cable out via the drivers foot well, here is a picture of the hood opener puller and the screw that needs to be undone to take away the puller and attach it to the new cable and cable holder.
7) This is a picture of the new replacement part. The end which goes inside the car
8 ) Picture of new replacement part which goes inside the engine bay (taken on a piece of wood for better resolution as my garage floor is not that good.
Other things, try to do it in a warm garage. I had knee protectors but still needed to sit on the cold ground. You can see the ice on the ground in some of the background pictures as this cable broke before Christmas and I replaced it just after. Temperature was a reasonable 4deg C. I needed to replace it as I live in Sweden and need to fill the windscreen fluid up every 2-3 weeks and keep the battery charged up, so access to engine bay is quite important for me, I cannot wait a couple of months until the spring comes. I really try not to do any maintenance until the spring.