Thanks for the info....I couldnt find anything on RAVE nor the internet....this will allow me to repair my morning "surprise" when my cable broke.
Broken hood release cable (wire broken at handle how-to)
I wanted to make a thread detailing the repair, it isn't a difficult repair at all but I'm sure this walk through well help those with this problem as any do-it-yourself person can pull this off but it isn't exactly straight forward.
If your hood release cable has broken at the interior release handle this is the repair! I could not find this in the rave manual.
REMOVAL
1.) remove floor trim (panel removal tool or flathead under the edge to pop the floor trim up)
2.) remove the foot rest platform to expose the hex nut, remove nut under foot rest.
3.) remove hood release interior surround (comes out with the foot rest)
4.) unbolted the interior hood release bracket (3 allen wench screws)
5.) cut hood release sheath to expose hood release wire
6.) pulled broken wire to pop the hood
7.) popped open the interior to middle hood release cable coupler (located just before the strut tower running at the outside edge of the engine bay)
8.) removed the damaged cable from coupler (used a tiny flat head to pry the anchor from the coupler)
9.) from interior pulled the old cable/sheath/level/everything out
Refit
1.) from the interior run the new cable through the fire wall hole into the engine bay (the wire will be visible from under the hood at this point)
2.) Push the fire wall plug until it seats in the firewall hole.
3.) from under the hood run the cable down under the brake res and wiring up between the outside of the engine bay and strut tower)
4.) refit the anchor to the coupler (close coupler up and refit to body)
5.) from the inside re-fit the hood release bracket and level (3 screws)
6.) put all the trim back together and you're done
Here is the part
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/FPF000010G.cfm
![]()
I just hope mine doesn't fail from somewhere under the hood next.
If your hood release cable has broken at the interior release handle this is the repair! I could not find this in the rave manual.
REMOVAL
1.) remove floor trim (panel removal tool or flathead under the edge to pop the floor trim up)
2.) remove the foot rest platform to expose the hex nut, remove nut under foot rest.
3.) remove hood release interior surround (comes out with the foot rest)
4.) unbolted the interior hood release bracket (3 allen wench screws)
5.) cut hood release sheath to expose hood release wire
6.) pulled broken wire to pop the hood
7.) popped open the interior to middle hood release cable coupler (located just before the strut tower running at the outside edge of the engine bay)
8.) removed the damaged cable from coupler (used a tiny flat head to pry the anchor from the coupler)
9.) from interior pulled the old cable/sheath/level/everything out
Refit
1.) from the interior run the new cable through the fire wall hole into the engine bay (the wire will be visible from under the hood at this point)
2.) Push the fire wall plug until it seats in the firewall hole.
3.) from under the hood run the cable down under the brake res and wiring up between the outside of the engine bay and strut tower)
4.) refit the anchor to the coupler (close coupler up and refit to body)
5.) from the inside re-fit the hood release bracket and level (3 screws)
6.) put all the trim back together and you're done
Here is the part
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/FPF000010G.cfm
I just hope mine doesn't fail from somewhere under the hood next.
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I added some pics for this process and followed all the instructions here http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-...ood-release-cable-wire-broken-handle-how.html , thanks to Brad s1. I did this on my 2004 L322 TD6 Vogue which has 130,000 km on the clock. This was easier than expected and took about 1.5 hours.
Some additional tips, from me.
I did not have to cut into the hood release sheath, as I could pull on the 1cm exposed part of the cable that was visible (see section 4).
The part number for the cable was FPF500050 (see pics 7 and 8) and costs £15 from www.britishparts.co.uk (I emailed them to get the part number as it does not show up in the standard parts list).
1) This is the first thing that you need to take off, the floor trim. Underside is shown here with the white poppers exposed. I used the orange flathead screwdriver to pop it up by inserting the screw driver from the inside (carpet side) of the car. I forgot to take a picture of the hood release interior surround, which is already removed and was on the left of this picture.
![Bumper Automotive exterior Vehicle Trunk Car]()
2) This is the foot rest platform that just pops off, on the left you can see the metal connector and screw thread where the internal hood release surround screws into (bottom left).
![Bumper Automotive exterior Auto part]()
3) Here is a picture of what the handle looks like when the hood release surround is removed. Again you can see where the surround was screwed into. Then I pulled back the carpet in the foot well
![]()
4) I folded the carpet back, you can see the white backing and then put it underneath the brake pedal. The carpet kept on springing back so I used the wrench with extender (top right in the pic) to hold it into place while I worked on and pulled out the old and broken hood release cable. This is the long black cable going into the rubber grommet/seal in the bulkhead. If you look under the release puller, where my thumb is pointing you can see the broken wire. As explained in the previous post you just pull the sheath plus cable out once you have removed the other end of the cable from the coupler in the engine bay (see pic 4). You can see the two bottom screws which need to be removed underneath the puller plus there is one above but behind the puller on this picture.
![Auto part Wire Tire Automotive tire Automotive exterior]()
4) Below is a picture of the coupler in the engine bay. This housing pops open by pushing down on the latches that you see on the top of the plastic coupler housing. The cable couplings are inside the plastic housing (where my fingers are pointing). The coupler you remove is the one on the left (stating the obvious) . This wire/coupling was not the easiest to remove. My technique was to insert a small nail in the right hand side of the coupler and lever/push this outwards and upwards and then to pull up the wire side. Otherwise if you do not do this from both sides it gets wedged in if you only pull up the cable side.
![Auto part Bumper Automotive exterior]()
5) This is a picture of the route of the old black hood cable underneath the brake fluid tank (top left) and the cable is from bottom right (underneath the pink looking electrical cable) going down towards the middle of the picture.
![Auto part Engine Headlamp Automotive lighting Fuel line]()
6) Once you have undone the coupling in the engine bay (you can see the location of the top screw in this picture and the two bottom ones for the cable holder) and pulled the old cable out via the drivers foot well, here is a picture of the hood opener puller and the screw that needs to be undone to take away the puller and attach it to the new cable and cable holder.
![Auto part Brake Wire Cable]()
7) This is a picture of the new replacement part. The end which goes inside the car
![]()
8 ) Picture of new replacement part which goes inside the engine bay (taken on a piece of wood for better resolution as my garage floor is not that good.
![Wood]()
Other things, try to do it in a warm garage. I had knee protectors but still needed to sit on the cold ground. You can see the ice on the ground in some of the background pictures as this cable broke before Christmas and I replaced it just after. Temperature was a reasonable 4deg C. I needed to replace it as I live in Sweden and need to fill the windscreen fluid up every 2-3 weeks and keep the battery charged up, so access to engine bay is quite important for me, I cannot wait a couple of months until the spring comes. I really try not to do any maintenance until the spring.
Some additional tips, from me.
I did not have to cut into the hood release sheath, as I could pull on the 1cm exposed part of the cable that was visible (see section 4).
The part number for the cable was FPF500050 (see pics 7 and 8) and costs £15 from www.britishparts.co.uk (I emailed them to get the part number as it does not show up in the standard parts list).
1) This is the first thing that you need to take off, the floor trim. Underside is shown here with the white poppers exposed. I used the orange flathead screwdriver to pop it up by inserting the screw driver from the inside (carpet side) of the car. I forgot to take a picture of the hood release interior surround, which is already removed and was on the left of this picture.
2) This is the foot rest platform that just pops off, on the left you can see the metal connector and screw thread where the internal hood release surround screws into (bottom left).
3) Here is a picture of what the handle looks like when the hood release surround is removed. Again you can see where the surround was screwed into. Then I pulled back the carpet in the foot well
4) I folded the carpet back, you can see the white backing and then put it underneath the brake pedal. The carpet kept on springing back so I used the wrench with extender (top right in the pic) to hold it into place while I worked on and pulled out the old and broken hood release cable. This is the long black cable going into the rubber grommet/seal in the bulkhead. If you look under the release puller, where my thumb is pointing you can see the broken wire. As explained in the previous post you just pull the sheath plus cable out once you have removed the other end of the cable from the coupler in the engine bay (see pic 4). You can see the two bottom screws which need to be removed underneath the puller plus there is one above but behind the puller on this picture.
4) Below is a picture of the coupler in the engine bay. This housing pops open by pushing down on the latches that you see on the top of the plastic coupler housing. The cable couplings are inside the plastic housing (where my fingers are pointing). The coupler you remove is the one on the left (stating the obvious) . This wire/coupling was not the easiest to remove. My technique was to insert a small nail in the right hand side of the coupler and lever/push this outwards and upwards and then to pull up the wire side. Otherwise if you do not do this from both sides it gets wedged in if you only pull up the cable side.
5) This is a picture of the route of the old black hood cable underneath the brake fluid tank (top left) and the cable is from bottom right (underneath the pink looking electrical cable) going down towards the middle of the picture.
6) Once you have undone the coupling in the engine bay (you can see the location of the top screw in this picture and the two bottom ones for the cable holder) and pulled the old cable out via the drivers foot well, here is a picture of the hood opener puller and the screw that needs to be undone to take away the puller and attach it to the new cable and cable holder.
7) This is a picture of the new replacement part. The end which goes inside the car
8 ) Picture of new replacement part which goes inside the engine bay (taken on a piece of wood for better resolution as my garage floor is not that good.
Other things, try to do it in a warm garage. I had knee protectors but still needed to sit on the cold ground. You can see the ice on the ground in some of the background pictures as this cable broke before Christmas and I replaced it just after. Temperature was a reasonable 4deg C. I needed to replace it as I live in Sweden and need to fill the windscreen fluid up every 2-3 weeks and keep the battery charged up, so access to engine bay is quite important for me, I cannot wait a couple of months until the spring comes. I really try not to do any maintenance until the spring.
Attachments
I have a wire attached to my hood latch with the end secured in a certain spot and accessible from the outside if you know where to find it. I can use it to open the hood if the normal cable ever fails 
Yeah, I'm paranoid. I've always done this with every vehicle since I had a cable fail and I had to spend over an hour fishing around with a hook to get it open (perhaps a fiber optic camera would make it easier though).
Technically I suppose someone could find it and get my hood open, but if someone wants to open a hood it isn't really that hard anyway.
Yeah, I'm paranoid. I've always done this with every vehicle since I had a cable fail and I had to spend over an hour fishing around with a hook to get it open (perhaps a fiber optic camera would make it easier though).
Technically I suppose someone could find it and get my hood open, but if someone wants to open a hood it isn't really that hard anyway.
Could you snap a pic of your wire? I am also a paranoid individual and would like to do the same thing!I have a wire attached to my hood latch with the end secured in a certain spot and accessible from the outside if you know where to find it. I can use it to open the hood if the normal cable ever fails
Yeah, I'm paranoid. I've always done this with every vehicle since I had a cable fail and I had to spend over an hour fishing around with a hook to get it open (perhaps a fiber optic camera would make it easier though).
Technically I suppose someone could find it and get my hood open, but if someone wants to open a hood it isn't really that hard anyway.
This was super help. I did it exactly as shown and it took me 20 min. The only thing that slowed me down was trying to push the rubber piece into the hole!
![Wire Electrical wiring Auto part Technology Tire]()
I used a $25 new part purchased on eBay USA with $0 shipping. My guess is that the dealer would have charged at least $500. This is a very easy do-it-yourself. PS: My break was inside the vehicle at the pull lever so I was able to grab the loose wire end with pliers and open the hood quickly and easily. Also gave me the opportunity to vacuum the dirt and dust under the foot rest. Thanks so much for this post!
I used a $25 new part purchased on eBay USA with $0 shipping. My guess is that the dealer would have charged at least $500. This is a very easy do-it-yourself. PS: My break was inside the vehicle at the pull lever so I was able to grab the loose wire end with pliers and open the hood quickly and easily. Also gave me the opportunity to vacuum the dirt and dust under the foot rest. Thanks so much for this post!
Ssshhhhh.... no totally forgot, pivots ??? which ones specifically? I just got a new one from BA as a warranty replacement. I was not aware that I had to lube them upon changing it. I will now.
tks buddy.Regards
Lou
It was a great help to use your instruction's. My car is exactly the same (even the same color) so it only took me about an hour to finish the job, which was as good, because the temperature was 9 decrees below zero. Thanks
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