RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
:crybaby2: After having a fantastic day on saturday with all the other AULRO guys, I decided to investigate the rattling noise at idle on sunday.

Well, here's what I found!








So it's out with the engine again. Does anybody know an easy way? Or how to get to the bell housing bolts without disassembling the motor? and was it determined whether or not there is an uprated flexplate?

But I had a good day on saturday, and can't wait to go fourbeeing again.

Stu
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
442 Posts
G'day Stubee,
Hows the the new engine going?
Did you replace the flex plate when you fitted the new engine?
RPI have and upgraded version for there 5.2 litre ,also there was some talk recently ,if your search flex plate you will find one guy going to fit more than one?
You can fit them without removing engine just slide back the box and transfer refit, check holes,as Bucks had a problem with this and ended up replacing two or three,a mate of mine replaced three in his high comp rangie ,Land rover rejects.before getting a different batch and had no problems since.All senarios in the search ,good luck,sorry a simple crap part has let you down
Regards Graeme
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Yeah I dropped the sump. I would highly reccomend anyone cotemplating this remove the sump as it make access sooooo much easier.

Anyway have got the motor out now. These cars are unbelievably easy to work on.

Heres what I found:




Take a look at the last picture, it appears that the hub aligner has been chewed out? If this is the case where too now??

I can source a flex plate easy enough, just don't want to have to do it again in 2 months time.

Stu
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
442 Posts
p38arover said:
You might as well replace the welch (core) plugs whilst the engine is out.
Ron the motor has only been fully rebuilt 3 months ago,so i think they should be sweet :D or unless Stubee is paranoid about his experiences with the head sarger :pray:

Now Stubee,you didn't replie on the question i asked? Did you replace the flexplate with a new one ,when you refitted to car????????. Was it a genuine Land rover replacement ?

From the photoes from that angle cant see any damage,can you get a straight pic with some pointers to the problem :!:

This is vital information to evaluate your problem on the later posts, and also to warne others not to skimp out on such a well documented part that fails :crybaby2:

How did you go with RPI evaluation on there Flexplate they have developed :?:
Regards Graeme
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
TRS supplied a "new" flexplate from what they tell me, and they fitted it up to the motor. It "may" have been a cheapy but, from what I now know that it isn't the primary cause of the problem. When fitting the torque converter up to the hub aligner, there is close to 1mm of play in the bush :eek:

So I will have to fix these things first. I'm currently thinking about the Gearbox on ebay for $950 as mine has done 265k and will probably need to be rebuilt soon anyway.

Will try and do those photos soon.

Stu
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Yeah I did some ringing around today, and the problem with the flex plate is not so much to do with power unless you double it or anything. Its more to do with the alignment of the torque converter. Looking at it now, I suspect that this was the reason the original one had started to crack. The hub aligner has an enormous amount of play against the spigot.

BTW, How tight do people do up the hub-alinger bolts? RAVE says 90nm, because I couldn't get mine undone, to the point where I stripped out the head, and twisted my allen-key wrench. So I had to drill one bolt out. This seems way to tight.

Stu
 

·
LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
·
5,391 Posts
Not sure about tyhe hub aligner bolts, but the flex plate to TC bolts have to be done toi 60Nm not the 45 specified in the workshop manual. There was a TSB on this. The lower figure allows the plate to fret.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
640 Posts


Spigot/Hub Aligner Bolts 77-90Nm.

Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
If the Hub aligner bolts are only meant to be 90nm then why could I not undo them. I had a 700mm bar on the end of Socket Bar and still would not budge, stripped the allen key head out instead. Grrrrrr!

Stu
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
1,851 Posts
Hi

You could not undo the bolts most proberly because they have used loctite to prevent them from coming loose. Heat the bolts up to over 80 degrees celcius and try to loose them. Heating normally breaks down the loctite and allows unscrewing of the bolt.

Regards

Jos
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
:( It gets worse. I've just been told that the only way to repair the spigot on the torque converter is to rebuild it, as it needs to be separated and re-balanced.

Stu
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top