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Hey Guys,


I bought a P38 recently out of Mississippi and I’m bringing it back to life slowly. Thought I would post a thread and keep it up to date with photos as it comes along. A little info on my new P38:
1998 4.0SE
143k miles
One Family Owned Since New
Clean Carfax and Title

I have a growing list of projects on it but nothing to major! Below is a photo of it from its ride home from deliverance.
 

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First project was removing the brush guard, Harbor Freight off-road lights and removed the broken blinker assembly (new one is on the way). I am on the fence about if I should put the brush guard back on or not, I need to repaint it if I do put it back on. Below are photos of the wiring from the off-road lights, it’s a wonder the truck didn’t burn up.
 

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Spent most of my Labor Day laboring on the interior, still have a lot of cleaning left but below are some before/after photos. The blue ink spot on the back seat isn’t a big issue for me as it will be under my sons car seat. The leather cleaned up well and I’ve got it conditioned up. Found the passenger rear seat fold down button is missing so that’s another project on my list. After photos aren’t great the tropical weather here is putting a damper on things!
 

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Well isn't this a terrific blast from the past?! :thumb:
 

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Found the passenger rear seat fold down button is missing so that’s another project on my list.
It isn't missing, someone has lifted the panel up, possibly to access the keyfob receiver, and not poked it back through the hole when they put it down again. It's there, you just need to put it back in place.
 

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Nice find. I’d put the brush guard back on as I love the way they look. I found Tuff Stuff gets out many many stains and smells on the carpet. New grey leather dye to cover the ink stain. Looks like after some serious cleaning it will make a grand vechile.
 

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Folks, reminder the tech forum is NOT a place to try and purchase items from other members. Good grief, Leo has just returned and this is his first thread in five years. :mrgreen:

He has not said the brush bar is for sale.
 

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Folks, reminder the tech forum is NOT a place to try and purchase items from other members. Good grief, Leo has just returned and this is his first thread in five years. <img src="http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/images/smilies/icon_mrgreen.gif" border="0" alt="" title="" class="inlineimg" />

He has not said the brush bar is for sale.
I can’t believe it’s been so long! Time just flies by, I’ve been meaning to buy another P38 but you know life happens! Haha

Looks like the rest of my week will be a wash for detail work, will try pulling the rear panel and look for my seat release. Also I have a little diagnosis to do on lighting and locking, I have a suspicion my BECM is in need of repair but need to verify that for sure first.

Here is a couple photos from my office today, we’ve secured our inventory boats and the bridge builders are bringing in all of their barges from the open water. Hopefully this storm will move thru fast.
 

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Yea it was a surprise to see ya. You did a stint in Volvos for a bit didn;t you?

Marty did a terrific testing stickie for front door latches. Lighting is pretty simple.
 

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Yea it was a surprise to see ya. You did a stint in Volvos for a bit didn;t you?

Marty did a terrific testing stickie for front door latches. Lighting is pretty simple.
Yes I still have a soft spot for them, probably will buy another one before to long for a daily driver. I currently have a Volkswagen Golf Sportwagen but it’s starting to get close to being out of warranty.

I’ve ready thru his sticky, but with the false fuse warning, rear door locks not working and dome lights sticking on it leads me to believe it’s in the wiring or BECM. I am going to check both the rear latches to be safe of course.
 

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Dome lights will most likely be a chafed ground wire or failing micro switch on one of the latches. Do you get a door open message?

Ugh false fuse warning... Scotty does BeCM diagnostics and repair. He is in California. If after you run through testing you decide to send the BeCM out to someone give Scotty a shout. [email protected] He just moved so he might be a bit burried.
 

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Found the passenger rear seat fold down button is missing so that’s another project on my list.
It isn't missing, someone has lifted the panel up, possibly to access the keyfob receiver, and not poked it back through the hole when they put it down again. It's there, you just need to put it back in place.
Thanks for the tip, that was exactly what my issue was!
 

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Dome lights will most likely be a chafed ground wire or failing micro switch on one of the latches. Do you get a door open message?

Ugh false fuse warning... Scotty does BeCM diagnostics and repair. He is in California. If after you run through testing you decide to send the BeCM out to someone give Scotty a shout. [email protected] He just moved so he might be a bit burried.

I did a little diag tonight since the rain has finally stopped. The done lights are timing out after a while so that’s a none issue. The failed fuse 10 is definitely a false error the fuse in the holder is good (verified with multi-meter) and correct amperage rating. So need to look into this a little more before condemning the BECM.

Did further testing of the door locks. Only the drivers rear door is not responding to the lock and unlock command from the front doors. Is there anyway I can test that the actuator on the rear is receiving a voltage when I cycle the front locks? Is it as simple as testing for a 12v signal voltage? I just want to verify it’s a bad lock actuator before buying a assembly.



Here is a storm damage photo from last night. My drive got wet...
 

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Got the radiator changed out tonight and the cooling system bled. Took it for its first 15mi Drive with me. Drove well! The cheap Rock Auto radiator I Order was a perfect fit. Got the replacement blinker assembly in and all of the burned out light bulbs replaced. Also replaced the key fob button pad, going to have to replace the whole fob I’m afraid this one is just beat. I have a bad cabin water leak I’m starting on diagnosing tomorrow

Doing maintenance items and exterior compounding/buffing next week when my parts orders come in!
 

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Still waiting on my maintenance items order to come in so I can change all filters and fluids.

The vehicle had pulsating lights and as I suspected I had a faulty voltage regulator assembly in the alternator. I replaced the alternator tonight and the battery with a proper Group 31 battery. The battery the previous owner had in the vehicle was about the size of a lawn mower battery! My starter stuck tonight so I’m going to go ahead and replace that now as well.

Now that I’m getting the mechanical items knocked out I will be starting on the cosmetic items like compound/buffing, rear bumper and armrest recover.
 

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New tires going on. Went up to 255/70R16 all terrains. Also replaced a bunch of small stuff including bad support struts on hood and tailgate. Going to finally start the paint restoration here shorty. Still on the fence about the brush guard!
 

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No no..just clean them with a little compressed air! `)





why not have the brush guard sand blasted and powdercoated? they really do look wonderful when "new"!

Nice P38..still miss mine
 

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No no..just clean them with a little compressed air! <img src="http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/images/smilies/icon_e_biggrin.gif" border="0" alt="" title="" class="inlineimg" />





why not have the brush guard sand blasted and powdercoated? they really do look wonderful when "new"!

Nice P38..still miss mine

I work in the yacht industry where powder coating is all the rage and I’ve found it just doesn’t hold up well in the long run. I wonder how it holds up in an automotive application?
 

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Hmmmmm.....I shall avoid Floridian powder coaters then.
I have been having large and small metal parts on various boats polyester powder coated for 40 years, and have to say it will outlast a good 2 part polyurethane by about 3 times.
What has me puzzled however, is the fact that all of the factory brush guards I have ever seen are covered in a semi hard foam material. I know there is a steel frame beneath, but it will look nothing like the moulded covering once sandblasted off. maybe it looks ok "naked"?
I was actually considering having a thin coat of flexible bed liner material sprayed on to one of mine that is looking a bit tired.
I also note that the oldest guard I have which is off a 96 still looks good, while the one on the 02 has degraded significantly. They went with a much cheaper covering material sometime in the production run. Cheapskates!
 
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