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Discussion Starter #21
ABS pump coming back on after the number of presses you mention is indeed normal. However, the brake light coming on is not normal.

ABS fault light is one of the few error codes with P38s that self resets once the fault goes away-unlike Service Engine Soon light, for example.

I think there is something in the system that is causing a delay as to when the ABS pump is engaged. The cause could be as simple as sticking ABS relay. Or, the problem may be an issue with the ABS pump motor itself.

For starters, make sure that the relay in the fuse box slot for the ABS pump is the correct heavy duty type.
Ugh— I was worried that this was still not fixed. Thank you for these thoughts. I did get an OEM relay and fitted it into the R17 slot mentioned earlier in this thread. It has definitely made a change, though I don’t know how that fits. As I wasn’t sure the relay would fix it, and since the ABS light was also on, I purchased a used ABS pump on eBay from a rover with no lights (ABS/brake/TC) with the idea that, if I installed and found it solved the problem, I could invest in a rebuilt one. Is that my next step, or is there another first?

Thanks for your help— I’m driving as-is around town but can’t risk carrying my family, and definitely don’t want to risk trailering though the WV mountains until I know it’s safe. I appreciate anything you could suggest!
 

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I also want to tackle the ‘ABS’ light and the ‘TC’ light. The fellow I purchased the Rover from said that I needed a ‘transfer case switch motor,’ which I have ordered. He said the ‘ABS’ was disconnected/off/bypassed (I can’t recall the exact phrase he used). Would you know what I needed to get either working properly?
So although the red brake warning light is working as it should, are you saying you still have ABS and TC lights on? Transfer case switch motor has absolutely nothing to do with the ABS or TC systems so that isn't the fault, all the TC motor does is change it from high to low ratio. I suspect he was thinking TC stands for Transfer Case when it actually stands for Traction Control, at least as far as the warning light is concerned. The Traction Control is part of the ABS system. The ABS will release the brake on any wheel that is turning slower than the others so you can't lock up a wheel, while the Traction Control applies the brake to any wheel that is turning faster than the others. So the two systems are all controlled by the same unit. Of the three lights, the red brake light will come on if there is no pressure in the system, if the handbrake is on or if you are low on brake fluid. ABS light will come on with the ignition and stay on until you have pressure in the system but will stay on until you reach 5 mph. TC light will come on with the ignition and go out once system is up to pressure but will stay on if there is a fault with the ABS or Traction Control systems, it also lights when the Traction Control is in operation. If either the ABS or TC lights stay on you should also get a warning on the dash saying ABS Fault or Traction Failure. If everything is working as it should, all three lights come on when you start the car, the pump runs to build pressure, once up to pressure (after up to 30 seconds when the pump cuts out) the TC light goes out, when you release the handbrake the red brake warning light goes out and then the ABS light goes out when you reach 5mph. If ABS and/or TC are staying on, then you have a fault. Usual cause is one of the wheel speed sensors but you will need diagnostics to tell you what the fault is. Something simple that you can do is go round each hub and tap the sensor further in. They need to be set at the correct height so you push them fully home and the rotation pushes them out to the correct spacing, so a tap with a mallet to push them in further is often all that is needed to clear an ABS fault.
 

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I would be hesitant to go the route of buying a used ABS pump unit on ebay.

The lowest cost option and also the surest way, which I've done myself years ago, is to get the existing ABS pump motor rebuilt by a reputable electric motor rebuilder. I've found one near me and had the ABS pump motor rebuilt for either $75 or $175. It's been a while, so my memory is a bit fuzzy, sorry.

Another option, although I have not had the opportunity to test it out, is to buy on ebay a brand new ABS pump motor (Just the electric motor) being sold for around $230. I don't know how good these motors are, but looking at the listing pictures on ebay, the motor looks pretty good. The brand new motor sold is designed specifically for the P38 ABS unit, so the installation should be straightforward.

Also, hate to be redundant, but the relay you purchased is the right kind for the ABS system? The right relay costs in the range of around $50, instead of around $10-15.
 
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