[KuduRover]

Hey Guys,

My Range Rover takes FOREVER to stop from 15mph to 0. When I'm slowing down from 60+ or so, the last 10 to 15mph seem to take forever. I often find myself in the middle of an intersection because the last few MPH's take so long to come off.

Would a Brembo upgrade fix this? What would be the best/most economical way to get some more braking power? Do people often upgrade to the Supercharged brake system?


Thanks,

Mike

 

[RattleItHome]

DUDE. If you're seriously ending up in the middle of intersections on a regular basis, please have your vehicle inspected and repaired immediately for your own and the safety of others.

There is a thread somewhere on this forum that describes the upgrade to Brembos in good detail. The guy just had to tweak the brake dust shield for the new bigger calipers to fit as I recall.

Good luck, drive safely.

 

[KuduRover]

I mean it isn't really that bad, you can correct for it by really mashing on the brakes...

It just seems to be really bad brake fade. I'll have the dealer check it out but I think the pads need to be replaced.

If I'm going to spend the money on pads, I'd like to at least get some higher end ones with more bite that are more fade resistant. I think a full Brembo upgrade is out of the budget, is there any sort of other OEM upgrade?


Thanks,

Mike

 

[CombatNinja]

I have the perfect upgrade for you. What you need to do is tighten the loose wing nut behind the wheel :mrgreen: Seriously, the Range is a large truck that can easily exceed 3 tons with passengers aboard. You cannot drive it like a regular sedan or, god forbid, a performance car. I actually significantly change the way I drive when I am in the Rover to accommodate the longer stopping distances.

That said, your truck might be in need of attention so look through the service records to see when the fluid was changed. If your truck doesn't have service records, it needs changed. Depending on mileage the flexible brake lines could now be suspect, expanding under pressure instead of ensuring that the caliper is moved according to the pedal. There really isn't any miracle upgrade out there to fix 3 tons being stopped via 4 relatively narrow contact patches. Get the thing looked at before something very bad happens to you.

 

[GKP]

A Mk111 Range Rover stops quicker than a Lotus Elise, y'know the small track orientated sportscar which weighs under a tonne. Either your car is faulty or, as alluded to above, your driving style is at fault.
Do you wear spectacles for driving?

 

[SGW]

Maybe your servo needs checking.
Stewart.

 

[mattdh]

i thought it was just me- before you even posted this. the other day was driving along 35- 45 mph coming up to a red let and its braking fine and the last 40- 20 feet or so seemed really soft like i should mash down on the brakes harder or something. have not looked into it yet but a least im mot the only one. (this wasnt the first time for me, i thought ive noticed it a few times)

 

[KuduRover]

Yeah that is exactly how it is. The last 50 or so feet seem to take FOREVER and the pedal feel goes to hell. I don't think it is my driving style... I have a sports car that gets my aggression out and I drive on the track two to three times a month so I don't really beat on the Rover much.

I think the brake pads need to be changed and I will get the service records. I was given the car by my buddy's Dad so I will figure out what dealership they used and have the service records faxed over. Would the dealership that most recently worked on the car have all of the records, or do I need to track down the dealerships in FL, MA, and NYC (all the previous homes of the car...)?

What does it cost to upgrade to the Supercharged Brembo's?


Thanks,

Mike

 

[RRDave]

Gents, how old are your Rovers and what color is the brake fluid? Sounds like you have a lot of fade .

 

[KuduRover]

Mine is a 2003 with 52k miles. Will check the color of the brake fluid now. What color should it be?


Thanks,

Mike

 

[KuduRover]

The brake fluid is a tab below the low line...

I will add some more today and then have it bled next week.


Thanks,

Mike

 

[KuduRover]

Also does anyone have a brake pad recommendation? I'm really looking for something that won't fade...

Also, has anyone considered doing some brake ducts to the front rotors to try and keep the heat levels down?


-Mike

 

[RRDave]

If it is any darker than a shade of tan, bleed the fluid out of the system until its new. 2003 is 7 year old fluid, I'd get it out of there, bleed the system, check pads while you are at and see if that helps. I have a 2006 and she stops where I tell her to.

One of the things that the Rover seems to want is when the caliper is compressed during a pad changed to have the fluid taken out of the bleeder screw instead of the reservoir. If the last person to do the pads took the fluid out of the top, you might have a touch of air in the caliper.

 

[KuduRover]

I've never bred brakes myself before... Is it worth having Land Rover or a local shop change the pads and bled the fluid? I could definitely see some air being in the lines, something is definitely not right.

Do you have a Supercharged or Regular Range Rover... Brembo's?

Lastly, is it worth doing slotted rotors and some ceramic pads? I really think it is a heat issue as this has happened in a lot of the track cars I have driven until we tweaked the brake ducts... Which brings me to my last idea, has anyone installed brake ducts in a Range Rover? I plan on building a set and installing them, gathering the air from the area around the front crash bumper or something - I haven't looked thoroughly through the front end enough to scout out the perfect spot. Where should the ducts end? Aiming at the calipers or the rotors or maybe put a Y-Pipe in and hit both?


Thanks,

Mike

 

[q-rover]

Check the procedure for brake bleeding in RAVE first.
It's not as simple as opening the bleed nipple and pumping the brake lever anymore.

 

[KuduRover]

I'm still assuming any shop can do it, right?

The brakes started squealing the other day, seems the pads are toast. Can anyone recommend some good pads? TireRack.com has some Hawk Ceramic pads that have decent reviews, anyone ever tried them? I don't mind spending more money to get a better product, brakes are not the place to skimp!

I need to get the pads ordered tomorrow by Noon, could you guys please provide me some guidance?


Thanks,

Mike

 

[CombatNinja]

Ceramic pads will often tear up steel rotors very rapidly. The lack of dust is not worth the hit in the wallet to me.

 

[RRDave]

I've got a 2006 HSE not s/c with factory rotors and she stops where I want her to.

I used a standard aftermarket pad from the local parts store and all is fine.

Took about 1.5 hours to do 4 wheels with a floor jack, total under $100.

It's really a pretty straight forward job.

 

[KuduRover]

So if I told plan on upgrading the rotors, stick to standard pads (not ceramic)?

I really want to do this project this weekend so if I could get them locally at PepBoy's or NAPA it would be awesome.

Any specific recommendations?


Thanks,

Mike

 

[KuduRover]

I think I'm going to go with the Hawk LTS pads and stick with the OEM rotors now...

Thoughts?


-Mike