[bresam]

Hi All,

I replaced the LHS rotor so easily, I was amazed ( and glad I started with this one ).
The RHS has decided it is quite happy to stay where it is. Fine. I sprayed with WD40 and did the other job I thought would be hard and replaced the RHS airbag. Easy, soo happy. Inflated nicely, no leaks ( what did I do wrong, lol )
Anyway back to the rotor. I have tapped around the flange, banged the back of the rotor ( as it is going to be replaced ), but it appearts stuck fast. I am thinking of grinding out a section so I can slip a screwdriver blade between the mating faces so try and separate them.
Anyone else experienced this problem and have an idea. All info I have seen just shows you hit it with a hammer.
I have left it soak overnight, so maybe it will be okay. Will let you know if it is, but any suggestions more than welcome please.
Cheers
Brett

 

[shupack]

Bigger hammer....

A large 3 jaw puller will get it.

 

[AMcK]

Yes both my discs were well stuck - tried big hammer -stayed put

so tried bigger club hammer - still not moving

Finally used b****y big sledge hammer rotating disc as I hit it - it gave up the fight and popped off :thumb:

 

[BeanBean]

On another car of mine, I had the same problem once. I was actually able to fit a small scissor jack behind the rotor, and pressed it off that way.

 

[bresam]

Hi All,

Well after a good soak overnight with lubricant, and me growing a bigger set of balls, I did grab a bigger hammer and my safety goggles!
Big hit on back of rotor where caliper removed, then rotated rotor slightly, then another big hit and presto off it came. One happy camper. :thumb:

 

[williams]

I have additional problem to this issue. After banging the old rotor and getting a good bit of movement, the right side of the rotor still not releasing. After some more banging on the rotor, a small spring and some type of bolt came loose and appeared in between the rotor and the shield plate.

What the heck is going on?

 

[Scotty]

Were are you located ?

 

[WashparkS4]

I have additional problem to this issue. After banging the old rotor and getting a good bit of movement, the right side of the rotor still not releasing. After some more banging on the rotor, a small spring and some type of bolt came loose and appeared in between the rotor and the shield plate.

What the heck is going on?

I use a 4-5lb plastic hammer from Harbor Freight. Give the rotor a bunch of whacks from different angles. Don't be afraid to swing. Also, a little PB Blaster doesn't hurt either

 

[LarryS]

had this a few weeks ago, didn't fancy shocking the bearings with a lot of heavy banging which it seamed like it was going to require - 5 mins with a plumbing blowtorch broke its bond and it was fairly easy after that.:thumb:

 

[tleeds]

Just to put the annotation on here, WD-40 is a lousy penetrating lubricant. The stuff works wonders as a parts cleaner though

 

[YooperP38]

tleeds is right on. PB Blaster is the only way to go, the penetrating spray I've used and with the salt on Michigan roads I use it a lot.

On rotors I take a wire brush to the spindle that the rotor sits on and then hose it with Blaster the night before then a BFH (big FARM harmer) in the morning. If that doesnt work then a propane torch and then Oxy acetylene and a new wheel bearing (usually smokes the bearing with the big torch).

 

[oldironbloke]

I can't deny being a 'hammer merchant' , but I did admit defeat with one of my P38 discs(rotors). Thrashing round the disc resulted in the disc coming off, literally JUST the disc, the mounting flange was still stuck firmly on the hub:x. My solution was a drill a series of holes in the disc hub, starting close by the main hub, and working outwards, trying to keep the edges of the holes as close as possible. Technical name is 'chain drilling'. Now a blow with a chisel on the outer edge of the holes, the crack ran right through the disc hub, and off it came. Do be careful how deep you drill though, don't want to spoil the main hub with a load of surplus holes!

 

[YooperP38]

Good idea oldiron. I will have to try that next time considering the $300 wheel bearings on our p38s.