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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

Last week I received the "brake fluid low" message. It didn't appear everytime I pressed on the brakes, just when pressing hard, and not all the time. Later on I checked the reservoir level and it was a little below MIN level, so I filled to MAX. Before you ask, yes, I activated the ABS pump before checking level and topping.

A couple of days ago I was messing around in the engine bay and I noticed the reservoir had fluid streaks all around. I first thought I didn't close the cap hard enough, so I cleaned the area and closed the cap with full force.

Yesterday I received the "brake fluid low" warning again. Brakes didn't seem as responsive as usual. When I checked the level was a little below MIN, and there was a leak at the reservoir cap. I had a hard time to open the cap (remember I shut it very tight) and the inner rubber seal looked fine to me. I cleaned the reservoir and cap, thoroughly, and then filled to MAX.

I couldn't take the car for a spin as there's a storm outside, but I suspect the leak will appear again.

Also, I suspect the brake fluid is past due it's renewal date.

So my questions are:

1) has anybody else had a cap leak ? Is this just a matter of replacing the cap ?
2) do you think the old brake fluid has something to do with it ? Somehow raising the pressure in the reservoir, and making the cap fail ?

I'm planning on replacing the brake fluid, but not before I fix this issue.

I searched this and other LR forums, and I haven't seen a single case of brake reservoir cap failure.

Thanks in advance,

N.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Just buy a new cap, see if the leak goes away..By over tightening the cap you will ruin the seal every time... 8~
 

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Hi,

Try to only tighten a bit the cap not full, another trick is to make a very small hole in the cap, the problem is that the accumulated pressure inside the reservoir make the oil leak, if you let the pressure leave you have your problem solved :)

Regards,
Sérgio
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the responses.

I went to the car, which wasn't driven since I topped the brake fluid, and I had to use quite a bit of strenght to open the reservoir cap even though I didn't tighten it up as hard as I did the last time. I think your theory is right on. Tightening just a bit is good enough since then the accumulator pressurises the system and the cap forms a seal which can deal with excess pressure. I noticed there's a channel in the cap rim. Is that used to let the excess pressure out ?

I hand tightened the cap, just barely tight. I'll report if that solves it or if my rubber cap seal needs replacing.

N.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Put a rag under it too. Brake fluid + paint = pissed off owner!!!
 

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Hi,

My does exactly the same that yours does, and I manage to solve this with that trick (just barely tight the cap), the pressure get out and the oil stays there ;)

Don´t be afraid about the paint `) , in mine worked very well and never leaked again.

Regards.
Sérgio
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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SERSAN said:
Don´t be afraid about the paint `) , in mine worked very well and never leaked again.

Regards.
Sérgio
Sorry, but on all my junk, I get a little partial to paint peeling off. Which brake fluid does quite nicely...
As I said, put a rag under it, or make sure to use brake cleaner to get rid of ALL brake fluid before it peels the paint off.
 

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Hi,

Yes, you right its a nice advice, the brake fluid is very corrosive, don´t leave oil in the paint or you will regret it :)

Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok guys, I went down to make some tests.

I set the key in 2nd position of the ignition, and the brake pump started charging for aprox. 10 seconds. Checked the reservoir and no leakage.

Then I started braking, with the car stopped, no cranked engine. About 12 or so brakings. After about 3 or 4 brakings, the pump started charging again (I guess this is normal, right?). Some of these brakings where hard (I slammed the pedal all the way) and other normal. Then I checked the reservoir and there was bubling coming from the cap.

The plan right now is to buy a new cap and see if that fixes the problem.

Would love to hear any recomendations.

BTW, I don't get the corrosion bit. I mean, sure, brake fluid can ruin paint, but in my case it's slowly pouring from the end cap down to the reservoir walls. I guess it never comes in contact with the outside paint. Then it leaks down over a couple of hoses. Should I worry ?

N.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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I thought the inner fenders were painted too?? 8-0=
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Bumper get there ok?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Not yet, freight forwarder got delayed. Will call today.

BTW, in an incredible turn of events, today I bought a new cap from the (only) local LR stealer and guess what ? I paid 18.75 dollars for a genuine LR part, where the price in UK for the same part is aprox. 20 pounds sterling. This is the first time I've ever found a cheaper part locally than in the US, and even the UK. When the guy told me the price, I rushed to the buy it before they changed their mind, or discovered there was a computer glitch, or something... Usually the dealer charges between 2 to 3 times the US price (i.e.: AB, roversnorth, etc...)

I'll try my cap this afternoon and let you know if this fixed it.

Also, I've been thinking about the bubbling at the cap. Could it be there's air in the system ? If so, what's the standard procedure ?

N.
 

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I was wondering about the air but you said your pump runs after 3 pumps which is similar to ours with a new [and I hope-nonleaking] accumulator. So it should not be nitrogen leaking from the accumulator ball. The other consideration could be moisture in the fluid that turns to steam with heavy braking but hard to see that would back feed to the resevoir. Do you have the LMA castrol brake fluid in your system. I bought some and am slowly getting around to a full flush with it-along way overdue right now. Without a full bleed I have had periodic bouts of air at the booster bleeder. Seems like air/nitrogen gas can hang around for a while if not fully bled out of the system. What level is the fluid after rangie has sat overnite?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi diff,

level is the same after being stationary all night. I'm using brazilian made Bosch DOT4, which is also past it's due date. On my next oil change I'll have my brakes bled. I followed the advise on not overtightening the cap and so far it seems to work. Just finger tight. Probably this isn't conclusive as the driving conditions weren't the same (just mild city driving). I've just replaced the cap with a new one, and did the same test as before... no bubbling at the cap ! :) I'm about to clean the previous cap, and see if I can find any damage, hopefuly in the rubber.

Thanks for the ideas.

N.
 

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I believe that the brake fluid is supposed to be flushed with new, every 40,000KM/25,000miles - I think that is what they call a 'Catergory C service'.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Paul, according to the 02MY NAS owner manual, brake fluid should be renewed at 45K mile intervals or 36 months.

On my LR official maintenance check sheet (for 99MY onwards) it states it should be done every 60K km.

N.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Final update:

It appears a new hand tighted cap fixed this issue for me. I couldn't find out anything wrong with the old cap.

N.
 

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Hi,

I told you so... :lol:

Regards,
Sérgio
 
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