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2002-2005 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is replacing the front brakes on a 2002 RR a DIY job. Very handy with most jobs just never did brakes. Looks easy just wonder if I may have problems getting rotors or calipers off without specialized tools. Looks like I can save about $200 by DIY so I hope for positive replies. Also any links showing step by step.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hey Martin how ya doing, I was going to change my front break pads last week funny how this just came up. So I understand the pins should be replaced except I have have no pins I have bolts. Best I can tell the brakes were done at the Rover Group in San Diego.
So the question remains do I need to change the bolts what are your thoughts.Also do I need the piston retrack tool or would a flat block and a C clamp work just as well, thats would I would normally use.

Scotty
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Well I confess, I never changed my pins. Just cleaned the old ones up real good and applied anti seize! Never had an issue in the 40k miles since the brake job.
I just used the old way of sliding the pads back, no special tools needed IMHO.
I am at home, managed to make it here Tuesday, Missouri would have shut me down from Wednesday lunch time until Monday sunrise anyway, so I may as well sit at home!
Replaced the battery cables on the RR yesterday seeing as the old ones were looking a little short after the big Optima went in there! So new 2 gauge cables went in there yesterday and all is good in the RR world again!

Martin
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Glad you could be home for the Thanksgiving.I'm thinking of about doing some Rangi work myself today.I'm getting behind I bought a BECM board from Carl which I never installed,( failed Blinker transistor on mine ) couple of air leaks no big deal, I pick up a spare complete EAS valve block and bought an o-ring kit from Dennis and need to rebuild the block, and I need to install the front pads. :roll: :roll:

Scotty
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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3,622 Posts
I didn't change the guide pins on mine either. It's been probably 25k miles since, and all is well.
 

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I have always cleaned and regreased the guide pins on pad renewal but on my rears the the lower pin on the passenger side and the upper pin on the drivers side seized the rubber grommets where in perfect condition .They came away pretty easily but i wasn't happy with the feel of the pin after cleaning them up so i replaced the caliper carrier and fitted new pins along with new discs what a difference it has made to the braking I am going to replace the front carriers and pins when the pads are due.
Scotty, a C clamp and a block will be fine no special tool required unless you want a brake piston spreader for the tool box and the job is a piece of cake.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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thanks Paul..

Scotty
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks and I think I will go with new guide pins for the extra $27. Does anyone know if there is a step by step link with some pictures.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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No doubt there is one in RAVE, but I have a paper shop manual.
It is a very basic job, no different than any other disk brake job.
I never even used a C clamp to slide the pistons back, they just slid in by hand.

Martin
 

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Hi, when pushing the piston back in, did it just literally go in without much resistance? Also, did you have the bleed hole open while doing this?

I have a brake job coming up soon, plan on doing all 4 wheels. I ask the above, as I was planning on buying a little clamp tool that''ll push in the pistons.
 

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Yeh pretty standard job as on any car. The only thing that might get you wondering is the bolts that hold the caliper carrier onto the hub. They don't have the standard eight faces, but look more like a spline. The good news is a standard bihex socket will fit perfectly (just can't recall what size).
The only other pain is the screws that hold the discs onto the hub can get a bit seized (probably something to do with weather and salt on roads over here) - had to drill mine out enough to remove the head then once disc off I could get vice grips on the thread and turn them. The disc also took a little persuasion before they would come off.
 

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TheoR said:
Hi, when pushing the piston back in, did it just literally go in without much resistance? Also, did you have the bleed hole open while doing this?

I have a brake job coming up soon, plan on doing all 4 wheels. I ask the above, as I was planning on buying a little clamp tool that''ll push in the pistons.
I open the bleed hole when pushing mine in. Went in real easy - after removing the pads I put caliper back in position and used a piece of wood between disc and piston to lever it back in.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,248 Posts
I just removed the cap off the brake fluid m/c and pushed them back by hand.
I have never undone a bleed nipple unless I need to bleed, too many break off if they havent been undone in forever. :naughty:
As I said, a piece of cake. The bolts just need a 12 point socket.

Martin
 
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Like Left says, leave the bleed nipple alone, unless you need to bleed the brakes. If you open the nipple, you expose the system [which is no longer a closed system] and allow an entry way for air to get in.
Undo the fluid reservouir cap and keep an eye to prevent overflowing as you push the piston back in.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks All. Ordered front brake pads, rotors, and caliper pins from Atlantic. Rotors came with new screws as did pads as a kit. Used an impact driver (manual that you with with hammer) to get the rotor screw out and a C clamp to push the caliper pistons in with an old pad). Biggest problem was my thinking the calipers would push back if the C clamp was removed so tried to get calipers over rotors with C clamp for 10 minutes. Found they do not push back and finished the other side in no time. No more $500 ($1,000 for both axels) brake jobs for me.
 
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