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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After numerous searches I have decided to post my problem. I own a 95 4.6HSE, it appears to have had a rough life before me (only noticed this whilst checking things).
My problem is that I have no brakes at all. They were working fine then just stopped. Brake peddle when pressed goes to the floor, brake lights come on but nothing else. Based on searches I have done I have checked the wheel speed sensors. They all give the same resistance. I bought a new accumulator and fitted that yesterday. There was no pressure when I unscrewed it and no gushing of brake fluid as some posts warned about.
I ran the engine for a while and could hear the pump running constantly. When I switched the engine off the pump stopped but was too hot to touch.

So I am now wondering if the pump is u/s. Did a quick search on the internet and a new one is about AU$3000 which is about half of what I paid for the car. So my question is have i missed something or does it sound like a new pump is needed in which case I will have to consider scrapping it as much as the thought depresses me as even though it is rough as guts I love the feel of driving it. Bloody things get under your skin and pull at your heart strings...........
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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1,428 Posts
Well, a couple of obvious questions arise here.
The brake fluid is topped up, and Clean and DRY?
The filter screen at the bottom of the reservoir is not clogged?
You have tried loosening a fitting on the output side of the pump to see if fluid comes out? (Put a rag over it, in case it does!)
You could have an air lock in the pump. Prime it.
The pump ~should~ not just fail flat out. I suspect a blockage on the inlet side.
Cheers!
 

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Banned
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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3,952 Posts
From experience I can tell you that if the pump fails the pedal still doesn't go to the floor. It goes very hard and does very little (a bit like trying to stop a supertanker, you need to start braking a very long time before you want to stop). Pedal to the floor says no fluid, or at the very least, some fluid but and awful lot of air in the system. The pump may not be doing anything, assuming there is fluid getting to it, but even with a non-functioning pump, you should still be able to bleed the brakes.

Postage may be pricey to Oz but I paid £50 on eBay UK for a pump and accumulator unit complete.
 

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Premium Member
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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1,131 Posts
X2 with Bolt. Also perform brake bleed steps. The first couple should give you a better idea of what's going on.
 

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Premium Member
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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1,131 Posts
Use full procedure from Rave. First couple steps bleed brake modulator and that should be enough to determine if your pump is getting prime.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well had the car to the local garage they said they had flushed and bled to procedure they found on the net, but brakes still not working.
Tried bleeding it today as per the CD I got off eBay. All going ok (not much fluid though) until we got to the rear booster bleed screw on the reservoir. When we tried to bleed this no fluid at all came out even after leaving the ignition on with the peddle depressed for a good few minutes.
So decided to drain the reservoir to clean the filter as suggested this may be blocked, but am unable to see it as the reservoir has a "wall" down the center.

So any ideas as to how i can get at the filters, or suggestions how to get the fluid to come out the bleed screw. After an hour of staring at the thing I even considered sucking through the bleed hose, but decided against it......
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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1,428 Posts
Seems a bit backwards, and is not a "Fix" but you could open the bleed screw and try to force a bit of compressed air backwards through it. Since it is not working anyway, a bit of air won't make it any worse, and could at least un block the system.
Assuming there is no check valve in the bleeder......
As I said, this is not a fix as whatever comes out of the filter, including the filter itself will still be there to contaminate the system. If it should happen to work, then a full clean and flush will be warranted.
Having said all that, I would think that if the shop did a full flush and bleed, the fluid would have had to have passed through the filter to be bled out. You may simply need a rebuild / new master cylinder? A duff MC will let the pedal sail straight down with very little resistance.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Might try the compressed air trick as have read the full thread by HSR before now and was not looking forward to stripping down and re building the brakes. But if need to do so then the car will be de-registered and become a project :-(
 

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RIP Our Friend
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27,834 Posts
Rebuilding the modulator is a fairly easy day project inclusive of the PITA bleeding. The directions that come with the kit are very detailed with lots of photos.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,259 Posts
Was going to suggest the modulator rebuild. Worth every single penny, even if you brakes are still good.
Mine were working fine, but still had a broken piece inside that was an accident waiting to happen.
Many years later, and with a 6.0 LSx motor pushing it along, brakes are still perfect.

Martin
 

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Well had the car to the local garage they said they had flushed and bled to procedure they found on the net, but brakes still not working.
Make sure you go and get your money back - they obviously either didn't do it right, or didn't do it at all.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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1,428 Posts
+1 on Danny's comment.....
....Sorry, Posted late at night from Syd Airport...I did mean Modulator......
Had a good read on the HSE post. Very informative, and makes me glad mine are both post 99 :)
Learn something new here every day!
 
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