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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

It's about a 1999 - 4.0 V8. Car has been sitting still for 5 years and now I'm getting her ready to go on the road again. First test drive month ago, the brake pedal was making 'grinding' noises so I replaced all disc brakes and disc pads but 'problem' is still there.

The car brakes superb and when driving >35kph the brake pedal does not make the noise, only when driving and braking under 35kph.. I've made a video of the noise, don't mind the lack of shoes, it's hot in here :razz:

Video: https://youtu.be/dVqTihaArLg

Anyone any ideas? I removed the 'dash' under the steering wheel and lubricated the spring on the brake pedal but no difference. Drive or reverse, same noise when braking low speed. Brake fluid never went under max level.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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771 Posts
The brakes need bleeding, when you brake do you get any of the lights flash up ?
i had the same noise when I changed my brake pump, until I bled them.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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455 Posts
Chris is right.
The bleeding procedure is a bit protracted, you do need another person to do it.
Please download the workshop manual it is under bleeding in the ABS section.
Follow the procedure as close as possible and it will work 1st time

Enviado desde mi SM-A720F mediante Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok a bit later but I bled the brakes today following this guide to the letter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AHDU5DPjV4o&t=108s

unfortunately, the noise is still there :(

The brake fluid that came out during bleeding, is dark brown almost black.. Could this be the issue? Or..?

EDIT:

I also changed the disk brakes and pads last month, but looking at the wear on the discs, I'm not sure of there's another problem.

Front discs wear: http://oi68.tinypic.com/10e10d0.jpg

I think that's OK since the pad cannot cover the whole disc, right?

Back discs wear: http://oi63.tinypic.com/zofcd1.jpg

I'm not sure but it looks like the pads only cover a small portion of the disc..
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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There’s definitely something not right on the rear, the fluid should be clear, it can take 5 litres to give it a good bleed through.
You need to cure rear problem first, there’s something very wrong there
i just watched that video, go to rave and download the bleed process, you don’t move from the first bleed nipple till you have clear fluid, if your master cylinder is full of dark fluid, drain it, I use a turkey blaster to suck out what I can,
then fill with clean fluid
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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From the 2 pictures, I would say you have a SERIOUS- as in DO NOT drive it till it is fixed-problem
The pads normally will contact virtually the whole surface of the disk. The second photo in particular looks scary.
Are the calipers both in their slots with the pins in place and both bolts tight?
They would have to be way out of alignment to make contact like that.
What do the back sides of the rotors look like?
I find it hard to imagine what is going on back there but you are right to be concerned.

As for black brake fluid? Yea, that is also really wrong, and I would do a full fluid flush of the system till it is clean and clear again.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey guy's, don't worry, I don't drive the P38, it's still a project so the only time I drive it is a few metres just to test adjustments etc..

But thanks for the confirmation that something is definitely wrong. I will check the back side of the disc to check if the same pattern can be found there. Afterwards I will recheck the pads and brake caliper. Both rear sides have the same pattern.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Allright back to the brakes.. I've checked the rear brakes, the inside of the rotor looks perfect! The whole surface gets scraped by the pad and the pad is worn evenly. But the outside of the rotor is like in the picture.. the pad only touches a small part of the surface.

I've checked the piston, it does NOT sit in an angle and comes out smooth, no leaks. The guiding pins move freely, nicely greased. What's the next thing to check?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Just on the off chance that you have faulty pads, can you swap them over and test
And, if that doesn't work, I'd say your caliper is somehow deformed. Look at the guide pins and the holes they slide in for wear, also look at the face of the pad seating area for build-up of crud or alternatively something worn down, although I can't think how that face would become worn away.
 
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