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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone else feel like their pedal travel is a little too long until anything happens?

I have new(er) pads and new rotors, they’re OE LR. Approximately 5,000 miles on them.

Has anyone bled the brakes on these beasts? Should I use a vacuum bleeder and will I need to use the IIDTool?

Thanks

14’ RRS Dynamic V8


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2019-2021 Range Rover Sport
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50 Posts
I'm probably not that much help regarding Brembo's on the RRS, but having had them on my 2014 Jeep GC SRT I just came out of, I can tell you that does not sound right... at all. And I would think Brembo's are Brembo's, especially if the various components you speak of are new. Would suggest you get them checked out, yes. They're normally amazing, for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I had them on the RRS I had an accident in, and they definitely felt better though those pads were mostly worn.

Anyway, I can only assume a good bleeding would help the issue.

My workshop manual does not have the bleed procedure, so far I am at a loss besides buying a subscription to TOPiX for a few hours.

Edit.
I would rather do it myself unless it gets to the point where something major must be replaced.


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Discussion Starter #4
Dropped it at my local dealer, $250 they bled the brakes and it feels fine now. I just picked it up going to work and driving it is so much more confidence inspiring, especially in traffic where I sometimes thought I was at the end of the pedal travel and I would have rammed someone trying to pump the brakes.
 

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Anyone else feel like their pedal travel is a little too long until anything happens?

I have new(er) pads and new rotors, they’re OE LR. Approximately 5,000 miles on them.

Has anyone bled the brakes on these beasts? Should I use a vacuum bleeder and will I need to use the IIDTool?

Thanks

14’ RRS Dynamic V8


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
only 5000 miles? sounds like a poor bleed job you need to find the bleed directions for which ever rig you are working on and follow to the T. doing things out of order can really foul things up.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Someone drew up the good point of... How did the air even get there?

Great question, don't know. I had the dealer I picked the truck up from down in Indiana do the brake change, so if I had to spend $250 at the dealer for perfect new feeling brakes, no complaints.

I couldn't find bleed instructions in ShopkeyPro, so I dropped it off at the dealer. My time is more valuable than ****ing with it for a few hours.

I feel like an ass saying that, but I have barely enough time for things including my P38 blowing up again. Oh and my 2004 Disco's brand new engine.
 

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2019-2021 Range Rover Sport
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276 Posts
Someone drew up the good point of... How did the air even get there?

Great question, don't know. I had the dealer I picked the truck up from down in Indiana do the brake change, so if I had to spend $250 at the dealer for perfect new feeling brakes, no complaints.

I couldn't find bleed instructions in ShopkeyPro, so I dropped it off at the dealer. My time is more valuable than ****ing with it for a few hours.

I feel like an ass saying that, but I have barely enough time for things including my P38 blowing up again. Oh and my 2004 Disco's brand new engine.
Im guessing you are a pretty heavy when you brake.. The harder and more often we brake the hotter the fluid gets even tho fluid is meant for high temps it still can get hot enough for the water vapor the has entered the fluid over time to be converted into air. no matter how hard we try air will get in given enough time and can be worse in certain regions, air moisture/atmospheric pressure. remember every time we open the cap to check the fluid we are now letting fresh air in above the fluid that contains moisture and over time the water molecules (being heavier) will settle down into the fluid.

BTW: Yes I agree bleeding the brakes can be a total pain, and some vehicles can be tricky to do especially by yourself without the correct setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Haha yes, this is my "Sports car". The Bentley gets 5 MPG, and the Maserati QP5 rides too rough, so this is my fast daily.

But. I've only owned it for a few months now, from what I can tell the previous owner was a women who didn't use the 5.0 to its potential. This being said, I doubt it has ever seen a brake fluid flush so your theory is plausible.

I couldn't find the procedure online for bleeding, and that's fine because I got to experience a V6 Velar for the first time as a loaner. It's not horrible.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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13 Posts
Bleed them every 12-24mos with fresh, sealed in metal can, fluid of factory spec. Download a procedure for your model, because many systems also bleed the valve body, etc.. if you are picky about brakes then invest in a hydrometer and test the old and new fluid. Sometimes even new fluid is out of spec if sitting around, especially if your climate is damp. These are high maintenance performance vehicles, not economy chevrolets, so get on a schedule. The brake pedal push is usually enough to get the fresh fluid through, but a $30 handheld vacuum pump pulls it through and can even pull bubbles from the res.cap if done right. Makes all the difference, and you do need 2 people to bleed out right. Like my ex-bosch ABS Engineer brother says - ain't nothing as good as the old fashion power flush from the pedal. Car off, obviuosly..
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Your vehicle is not really DIY friendly brake system. This is true of anything LR over last decade. Prior to that, a good pressure or vacuum bleeder tool works great. The newer vehicles, including your L494 requires not just a pressure bleed tool but a factory or 3rd party diagnostic tool capable of communicating with and controlling the ABS modulator ecm.

Make certain to also use proper spec brake fluid. Standard DOT 3 or DOT 4 nor high temp DOT 4 race fluid are suitable on any modern LR vehicle. The ABS modulator is quite sensitive to fluid viscosity thus you MUST use the spec DOT 4LV, aka DOT 4+ as its known in EU. The only 'performance' alternative is DOT 5.1, which is same lower viscosity as DOT 4LV but roughly 10% higher BP, both wet & dry. DOT 5.1 is however more hygroscopic than DOT 4LV thus will require more frequent servicing. I personally use Motul or Ravenol DOT 5.1 because I live in mountains and tow a 24' utility trailer with race bikes, totaling 5500-6k lbs thus improved fade resistance is a priority over servicing frequency. I bleed my brakes annually.
 
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