[allsixesandsevens]

Just tackled the front brake pads for the first time on a Rover. Things were going well, until I could not get one of the calipers around two new pads (drivers side). One of the caliper bolts was frozen and stripped, and I did not have the courage to take drastic measures to remove it. So, I opted to put one new brake pad in, and leave one old pad (about 50% wear left) until I figured out how to remove the caliper bolts entirely. My question: will this mismatched pair of pads destroy my rotors? I do plan on fixing it, just not for a couple of weeks. Thanks for your thoughts on this one....

 

[leftlanetruckin]

So long as you have plenty of meat left on the pads, it will not harm the rotor.
Think I would have left the old pads in though, then have a completely new set after the fix.

Martin

 

[TheoR]

I don't understand why a frozen caliper bolt would prevent you from inserting 2 new pads in there. Perhaps the issue is that you did not compress the brake pistons into the caliper housing enough.

Also, if one of your caliper bolt is indeed stuck, I would look into it first as frozen caliper guide pin (if this is the case) can cause significant brake issues.

Regards,

 

[allsixesandsevens]

Perhaps I did not compress the caliper pistons enough. I used an old pad a c-clamp to compress. Are there more effective ways to compress?

On the side that went ok, I had both caliper bolts unloosened, which just seemed to make things easier. I don't think the guide pins are stuck, although I'll check it when I fix the troubled bolt (rounded head).

 

[keithdixon]

C clamp is fine, you could try with a tube, on your bleed nipple into a pot of brake fluid, and open the bleed nipple whilst you compress the brake.
This way you should have little resistance.
remember to top up fluid afterwards.

I haven't done this on the p38 but need to do this on the Jag to make things easier.

 

[Chris X]

I agree with leftlane - if you were not going to put in two I don't know the benefit of putting in just 1 new one. If you don't fix it soon you will have to buy another set.

Order yourself a couple of new caliper bolts to have on hand. Then get out the vice grips and a BFH and go to town on that thing.

When I did my pads a few weeks ago I had a total of 3 of the slider bolt sleeves completely stuck and immobile. Make sure you yank them all out and clean them and polish them smooth if you don't replace them, then grease and reinsert.

Your c-clamp and old pad method is quite acceptable. I crack open the bleeder and then push, rather than pushing the old fluid back through the system.

 

[TheoR]

From my experience I don't like to use c-clamps because they slip around. Better to just go buy a budget piston compressor from places like Pepboys or Autozone for like $8.

If you happen to have more change in your pocket, you can always go all out and buy stuff like the Giro disc brake pad spreader. Now, these tools are used in racing, and kinda is a big time overkill.

As others mentioned earlier in other posts, always a good idea to have the bleed hole open when compressing the piston in there.

 

[Jim-00-4.6]

i just loosen the fluid reservoir cap, and press the piston in with my fingers.

 

[Cornishman]

This is what I use: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWNX:IT
Great quality, I'm sure you can get them in the US :thumb:

 

[Rat_RR02]

Hi allsixesandsevens,

well, I agree with the other guys about using just one pad instead of replacing both, I would have just left it until I had the tools I needed. I also agree that using just one new pad it will not damage anything, so no harm done. If you are not skimming your disks, or replacing them, then it wont make any difference either.

I must say though, I think you should have done a full overhaul on the brakes. Change the replaceable bits, the guide pin etc. I do this on brakes as I think its cheap insurance. Brakes are your friend, and failed brakes are not your friend. If any bits stick or are not totally aligned correctly then you will get premature wear, less stopping power and you'll be wasting your time and money. All I am saying is when it comes to brakes, dont skimp!

Cheers n beers
Mick

 

[sillyboy]

Hi to all,
Re-rounder over bolt heads have you tried “IRWIN” convoluted socket sets these sockets are convoluted and tapered so the more pressure you put on them the harder they bite the sockets are 3/8” drive and also have a hexagon heads enabling the use of a ring spanner the kit contains the following sizes 10mm 11mm 13mm 14mm & 16mm larger sizes are available, even if the bolt head is completely round they still work brilliantly,
I had the self same problem when doing a complete brake change, disc, pads, pins, also took off the dust shields and re-sprayed they tend to rust up, I wish you all the luck but don’t leave it to long. Best regards silly boy.