[Rovah]

The LR3 (2005-2009) 18x8 OEM wheels fits the L322 (2002-2005). It is possible that fitting the TF152 18x8 to those years model will be a close call and contact of the brake calipers. That or they will not fit at all so they don't want to make any suggestions. For me the choice was easy, I put the LR3 wheels on my L322 and boy do they look sexy lol I never thought I would say that about OEM parts.

 

[Jack19063]

Fix the big issues and many of the fault codes will sort them selves out along the way.

 

[harvyh]

For 19 inch OEM rims I run Pirelli Scorpion ATR Plus 255/55x19. The Plus version is slightly more aggressive than the the standard ATR.

 

[noquarter1]

For 19 inch OEM rims I run Pirelli Scorpion ATR Plus 255/55x19. The Plus version is slightly more aggressive than the the standard ATR.

I'll check those out, I was looking at the Toyo Open Country A/T III, but I'm open to suggestions.

What I'm struggling with internally right now is how much money to put into this rig. I bought it for $800 and KBB says it's worth ~$4k-$4.5k private party. What I don't want to do is pour much more than that into this thing trying to make it into something it never will be. So, I've begun to divide the list into wants and needs. Air suspension? Needs, so $700 for two new Arnott struts. New wheels so I can put bigger tires on it? Realistically for the off-roading I do (more overlanding), it's probably a want. So I think I'll stick with the 19" wheels for now, despite my previous ask looking into the 18" or 20" wheels.

 

[phoenix37]

Check Car-Part.com I found a set of 20"s on there for $250 and it so happened they came off a vehicle that was wrecked so the tires were in very good shape.

 

[MARK_C]

Facebook marketplace, craigslist, etc. I got a set of 20" 2020 range rover take off rims with 0 miles on them two years ago for 350 for the whole set. LR list for each wheel is over 1K.

 

[RABB]

While taking a look under the hood, I discovered oil filter (I believe that's what the metal canister with the black top is) is just flopping around inside the bay, it's not bolted to anything. I assume it's supposed to be mounted somewhere, potentially the bracket in the middle lower portion of the pic below. Can anyone post of a pic of how it's supposed to be mounted? Thanks in advance.

View attachment 292139

 

[RABB]

I bought a 2004 L322 last summer with 113K miles and a blown air pump. I did the coil conversion and am very happy with it. It is one major headache with these things eliminated. It rides and drives well as far as I am concerned. I changed valve cover gaskets and still have minor oil leaks (better than my MGB!) I also changed the neutral safety switch to eliminate a no start / start up in trans limp home mode situation, it is 95% better. It is predictable if not dependable. It is a really cool old 4x4 and since someone else took the depreciation hit, fairly cheap. A little thirsty, but better than my Suburban. Warm heat, cold A/C. A worthy project the way I see it. Good Luck!

 

[noquarter1]

I'm getting the new front struts tomorrow, so I decided to remove the current front struts tonight in order to make it faster tomorrow.

I wonder why this wasn't holding air?

I guess the worrying part is that these are Arnott struts...meaning these have been replaced before and have failed. I've never heard of Arnott failing and I'm putting Arnott's on tomorrow. I hope I have better luck with this new pair than this one. Worst case scenario, they've got a warranty. Unfortunately, it's not transferrable, so I can't redeem the warranty for these leaking ones.

Got the front driver strut off and ready, went to work on the passenger and had a tool casualty. This is an Icon from Harbor Freight, which is supposedly their premium brand comparable to Snap-On. So much for that...but I should be able to just go swap it out tomorrow.

As for the wheels, I've searched all Craigslist within a couple hundred miles as well as eBay. Haven't seen a set below $600, so unless a set comes up before next week when I get tires, I think I'll just stick with my 19's.

 

[noquarter1]

Also, does anyone have thoughts on the air bag exploding in the first place?

I'm concerned because the pump kept continuously running until the bag popped. Is there a pressure relief valve that could be bad or something? I'd hate to put a brand new bag on just to have the pump keep filling until the new bags pop. Any reason why the pump kept running?

Thoughts?

 

[noquarter1]

Got the new struts installed. The new Arnott struts look like they've been redesigned compared to the old ones, so I'm crossing my fingers that these last a good while.

I went to start it up and...it works! The suspension raised right up and held. I don't know what I was expecting, but everytime I do work on a car, I always hold my breath because I'm half convinced I screwed it up somehow.

But, it's looking good now.

So question: the suspension seems to be functioning fine, and using my diagnostic tool, I looked and there's no error codes related to the air suspension. However, there's still the message "air suspension inactive" on the dash. Any thoughts as to why that would still be there? Like I said, there's no error messages for the air suspension right now.

Thanks.

 

[ROVERRM]

While taking a look under the hood, I discovered oil filter (I believe that's what the metal canister with the black top is) is just flopping around inside the bay, it's not bolted to anything. I assume it's supposed to be mounted somewhere, potentially the bracket in the middle lower portion of the pic below. Can anyone post of a pic of how it's supposed to be mounted? Thanks in advance.

View attachment 292139

it mounts to the bracket in the picture with the two rubber pieces on it, those are supposed to be mounting bracket bushings, you can find the set on ebay for around 10 bucks

 

[Rovah]

I spied on your bmw in that pic. It seems that many RR owners have a bmw in their stable. I am one of them too. Have you tried clearing all codes even though none are present? What is the outside temp? Freezing?

 

[MARK_C]

Got the new struts installed. The new Arnott struts look like they've been redesigned compared to the old ones, so I'm crossing my fingers that these last a good while.

I went to start it up and...it works! The suspension raised right up and held. I don't know what I was expecting, but everytime I do work on a car, I always hold my breath because I'm half convinced I screwed it up somehow.

But, it's looking good now.

So question: the suspension seems to be functioning fine, and using my diagnostic tool, I looked and there's no error codes related to the air suspension. However, there's still the message "air suspension inactive" on the dash. Any thoughts as to why that would still be there? Like I said, there's no error messages for the air suspension right now.

Thanks.

Do you have any ABS, HDC codes? Those will keep the suspension locked out at normal ride height. Also it may just be a hard set code, and needs to be reset with a code reader. Forget if that type of code will reset with a battery disconnect or not.

 

[noquarter1]

The HDC is inactive as per a message on the dash. The DSC light is also on. I assume these are connected to the Inactive Air Suspension, but I'm not sure how.

There's two areas in the diagnostic tool where the air suspension is mentioned. In the Air Suspension area, there are no trouble codes. In the Instrumentation Lights area, it has the trouble code for the above three issues. Whenever I clear them they come right back.

So, the vehicle is riding level, all the height sensors have voltage, and I can manually raise and lower the car using the diagnostic tool, just not the controls in the car itself.

The only thing that I can think is that all the height sensors are displaying crazy different heights in mm. Perhaps that's why the error message is displaying? I'm going to try manually recalibrating the heights tonight and see if that works.

I'll report back.

 

[Rovah]

Start the truck. Turn your steering wheel in full lock to the right and then to the left. See if that solves the issue.

 

[noquarter1]

Start the truck. Turn your steering wheel in full lock to the right and then to the left. See if that solves the issue.

Yeah, I tried this a few times. No dice, unfortunately.

 

[noquarter1]

Okay...I may be about to wave the white flag. I manually recalibrated the height sensors, proactively changed out all fuses that are remotely connected to the DSC, HDC, or air suspension, and cleared all codes in the car, regardless of what the code was. Unfortunately, nothing is working. Those three warnings (HDC, DSC, Air Susp) still are there, and I still can't control the height using the vehicle's controls.

If this were just a daily driver, I'd probably just live with those faults, as the vehicle drives at a comfortable height. But, I bought this to be an off road rig, and so I need the extra height afforded by the air suspension.

Any last thoughts? I'm going to concede defeat and take it in to a shop on Monday, so if you've got any ideas, no matter how farfetched, I'm open to trying before then.

edit: after doing additional searches, it seems like it could be one of a few things:

1. abs module
2. brake light switch (doubtful, brake lights are fine)
3. steering angle sensor
4. bad alignment (the steering wheel is off center, so maybe? need to get an alignment anyway)
5. bad battery (doubtful, it's showing 12v off and 14v on)

 

[noquarter1]

On a different note, when I first bought the car it had the infamous 'key not turning in lock' problem, with the classic 'three click' symptom. In all my research, it seems the only guaranteed fix is to replace the steering column. Some people had good luck spraying WD-40, others not so much.

While browsing Youtube for a solution, I came across the below from Goldcar:

For $50, I figured I could take a chance. I received it today, popped it in, and am very to happy to report that the problem is gone! My key turns on the first try, 100% of the time! I'll update again once I've had it more than 30 minutes, but so far, I'm beyond pleased that such a simple tool fixed arguably one of the most annoying and prevelant issues of this vehicle.

 

[noquarter1]

On a different note, when I first bought the car it had the infamous 'key not turning in lock' problem, with the classic 'three click' symptom. In all my research, it seems the only guaranteed fix is to replace the steering column. Some people had good luck spraying WD-40, others not so much.

While browsing Youtube for a solution, I came across the below from Goldcar:

For $50, I figured I could take a chance. I received it today, popped it in, and am very to happy to report that the problem is gone! My key turns on the first try, 100% of the time! I'll update again once I've had it more than 30 minutes, but so far, I'm beyond pleased that such a simple tool fixed arguably one of the most annoying and prevelant issues of this vehicle.

Well...it allows me to turn the key but the steering wheel remains locked, so it's not drivable. Gotta investigate more, as right now it's not the silver bullet I hoped it was.