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Discussion Starter #1
Hi--
I've searched the forum and didn't see what I was looking for so thought I'd post a question:
It's cold up here in Massachusetts and after popping the hood this weekend to change the oil, the hood would not latch on the driver's side which then also created a "bonnet open" fault. The hood release under the steering wheel was slightly extended, due to some slack in the cable. After reading related posts, I suspect that the mechanism in the hood latch did not return to normal, perhaps due to cold, and so receiver can't grasp the post on the hood. Am I on the right track? any suggestions as to how I can spring it back to normal?

cheers and thanks
Jamus
 

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The sensor is built into the passenger latch. It is actually nothing more that a micro switch held in place by plastic tabs. It the tabs have snapped due to being brittle in the cold you'll need to reaplace the latch or bypass the switch.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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I bypassed the switch myself, it was more hassle than it was worth to me...
Cut a wire, tape it up, done.

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #4
interesting. thank you. So no worries about the driver's side latch being loose (meaning I can raise the hood an inch or so by hand)? I would think this is failing of the mechanism more so than a failing of a sensor... something I'm missing?

Thanks and I appreciate the help

Cheers
Jamus
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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I cannot comment on the latch myself, never had an issue with mine.
The bonnet sensor is located on the passenger side though, teh wiring runs in front of the battery tray and goes under the slam panel.

Martin
 

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If you can lift the bonnet,i would fix it soon!
Ihad a similiar problem on my discovery,and the hood flew open while i was driving.
I could not see a thing and ended up in a ditch.its not something i would wish on anyone!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Get a can of "Blaster" products spray lithium grease (Home Depot carries it) and lube up your latch receivers real good. Exercise the latch release and lube actuator cables. Check condition of latch springs with mirror and flashlight. Most likely the winter crud starting to dry out the moving parts in your hood latch mechanisms. The hood switch on my '96 is on the drivers side (NAS).
 

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I had the bonnet open warning but not a loose bonnet, repositioned the left latch ever so slighty backwards and it was gone, I guessing your is just the loose drivers side latch
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks guys. We had a mild warm up last night and after popping the hood and slamming it back again things caught and the fault it gone. I tend to agree that the thing could use a good lubbing and I'm wondering if someone could point me to a diagram where I could see the whole unit. I'm a bit mystified as to where the cable disappears behind the release latch in the car and what bits and pieces require lubrication under the hood. A picture tells a thousand word... I have not downloaded RAVE. Would it be there?

cheers and thanks to all for your help
Jamus
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Simple enough device. It's just hidden under the front engine compartment ledge. Use a mirror and a flashligth to look at the backside of the ledge where the mechanisms (right and left side) hide and spray some lubricant around, also spray the grease into the hood pin receiver from the top. It's all actuated by a pull cable attached to the lever in the saloon. Lube and work the release handle, lube & work release handle, lube & work release handle, till things start working smooth. Wipe up excess grease, and close the hood. Check/lube/grease at every oil change and you shouldn't have the problem again. Low tech fix. :thumb:
 

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Ideal to remove and clean latch, works well and lasts
Micro switch on each latch and they can be replaced...
 

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viperover said:
Micro switch on each latch and they can be replaced...
:think: I have only ever seen them on the passenger (NAS) side.

Although I have found sources for the DC3/U0101 switches it has always had a redicultous minimum order. As it is highly unlikely that anyone is going to be breaking into the engine compartment of our rigs for 20+ year old technology I still vote for just bypassing the switch when it breaks. If you are a die hard and really want a funtioning hood sensor just pick up a used one for $15 at the breakers.
 

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Hi all,

With all the opening of my hood recently, the hood release pull below and to the left of the steering wheel has become loose and now requires a greater amount of pull to engage and release the hood latches.

How do I fix / tighten the release pull / cables so that I do not get to the point where the release pull no longer works and where I will be stuck with a hood that does not open?

Thank you very much!
 

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Hi dbs600,

I have just replaced my bonnet release cables and the bonnet opener flap (as it has snapped in half).

The guy in the shop told me that all cables are the same for pre and after 99 models.

I couldn't see anywhere that it is possible to alter the cable length to take up any slack, so I replaced them. Both cables are replaced at the same time as one unit, actually a very easy job, and think the cables were only about $30. I would just replace yours, because it will be a real pain if you bonnet gets stuck.
 

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Hi Spencer,

Can you please provide a brief set of instructions for replacement of the cables?

And, where did you purchase the parts, from the dealer?

Thank you!
 

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Can someone please assist, as I am currently experiencing the "Bonnet Open" fault and I would like to fix same, but I do not know where to start. I have searched this board, as well as the RAVE manual, but I cannot seem to find instructions. I have also opened the hood to look around, but I don't see a sensor attached to either the two prongs / spring latches attached to the hood itself or within or surrounding the two holes that the two prongs engage to secure the hood. As also mentioned, I believe the hood release pull below and to the left of the steering wheel, by the driver's side foot, well has become more difficult to use to open the hood recently, as it takes a greater amount of pull to do same. Thank you.
 

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dbs600 said:
Can someone please assist, as I am currently experiencing the "Bonnet Open" fault and I would like to fix same, but I do not know where to start. I have searched this board, as well as the RAVE manual, but I cannot seem to find instructions. I have also opened the hood to look around, but I don't see a sensor attached to either the two prongs / spring latches attached to the hood itself or within or surrounding the two holes that the two prongs engage to secure the hood. As also mentioned, I believe the hood release pull below and to the left of the steering wheel, by the driver's side foot, well has become more difficult to use to open the hood recently, as it takes a greater amount of pull to do same. Thank you.
I am not sure what more you need other than this thread to fix the fault. In the second post I described where the sensor is located. Martin described how to bypass it and another member described how he adjusted the latch to clear the issue. RAVE has a detailed pic and adjustment procedure for the latch as well as showing the plug location in the ETM.
 

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Are the 'latches' the spring prongs attached to the hood or are they the two circular openings by the grille? I've tried searching RAVE, but couldn't find anything. This sounds like a really demanding request, but can you please post page numbers I should direct my attention to in RAVE?
 

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hi,my bonnet open message turned on so i open those latches and clean them then put them back.so now my bonnet is perfectly close,but still i hv the bonnet open message.can anybody help me how can i get rid of this plz... :?

96 RR SE...
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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roynantu said:
hi,my bonnet open message turned on so i open those latches and clean them then put them back.so now my bonnet is perfectly close,but still i hv the bonnet open message.can anybody help me how can i get rid of this plz... :?

96 RR SE...
Leaving this one for Carl.....Seeing as I cant find a RTFT GIF on my hard drive..

Martin
 
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