Range Rovers Forum banner
1 - 1 of 1 Posts

· Registered
2016-2018 Range Rover MkIV / L405
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am posting some of my experiences with doing a body lift of 2" then 4" on my P38 2001 Range Rover. Now there are some kits available for this and some instructions but those I have found just leave too much out. You WILL RUIN something if you just think what the kit build says needs to be done. So that is why I am starting this.

My purpose was not to "lift my body" for tire clearance, or some other modification, but simply to allow clearance to work on a body on under carriage restoration. This clearance is needed to properly prepare for painting the frame, and underbody. Removing the body from the frame might be easier if you have a post auto lift. But it is very easy to tweak the body or not be able to realign the chassis and frame. I will when I am done return the body to its stock height. I might consider a 1/2" / 13mm lift simply to allow more access for service clearance, particularly, for the double cardan joint drive shafts I am installing. Without the extra clearance tightening the nuts on the transfer case end of the drive shafts. I installed the front which I procured from Tom Wood / Lucky 8 and found essentially no clearance to install the nuts on the transfer case end of the drive shaft, even with the "special drive shaft socket tool".

But for those contemplating a functional "body lift" I would not recommend it without some re-engineering the body mounting on the frame. Simply putting spacers between rubber mounts and the body locating cups will allow shifting of the body to the frame. It is noted the inside of of the cups on the body are a radii, except for the front mounting next to the batter or air filter box, so any spacer would need similar radius. Also the top of all four mounts, behind the front one, are shaped to fit with the radius cup body mounting It is impossible no matter how much you tighten bolts, as the bolts are put in bending stress... something not present in the original design. If you look at the mounts you will find the body has stamped cup like retainers surrounding the mounting bolt hole to physically locate and capture the rubber mounting... in other words the bolts do not locate the body the rubber mounts and mounting seats do. The proper way to do a permanent lift would be to weld brackets onto the frame to make the stock body rubber mounts to be spaced up. A properly engineered extension would not allow any flex or deflection of the mounts for the rubber mount donuts.

Also while we are at it the front mount up by the air filter box on the left side or the battery on the right stamped shape where the bolt head is in the engine compartment is a water / rust trap. This should have at lease one drain hole drilled with the bare metal of the drain holes painted to protect from rust. All older P38s have rust in this critical area.

I will endeavor to learn to post some photos...
1 - 1 of 1 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.