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Blower Motor

9931 Views 22 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  rtkraken
First, I want to say thanks to everyone who posts here, I have been able to find the answers to all of my questions the past 5 years without having to register or post - so thank you

The car, 2000 P-38 4.0

Now, for the problem: The air conditioning system is not working anywhere near as good as it should! I have a left hand blower motor that is not running and my wife is complaining as we live in the Mojave desert
- Pollen filters are on order - I cleaned the ones in there until they arrive - they were filthy
-Relay 7 has been replaced after looking through the relay bin at Autozone (duralast 19899 fit perfectly)
--There appears to be only minor damage to the fuse box even though the relay was burned out.
-I checked with a test light, and there is voltage to the red wire that goes into the blower motor

Is it possible that I am not getting enough amps to run the blower through the line even though the test light goes on? it was an LED test light
Is there a way to tell if the blower motor is burnt out or if it is just a bad fuse box?

Any help on narrowing down the problem and fixing this would be appreciated. My wife loves the car and I just installed headrest monitors for the kids, so I would really like to get this fixed ASAP

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Jos Geuze said:

There are speed control electronics built in the blower and these might be faulty. The red wire should always have 12 V DC on. The speed control system completes the path to earth with a supply voltage lower then the 12 V. If you remove all connectors, and connect spade connectors to the top connectors direct to the carbon brushes, the fan should run at full speed.



I will try and get the motor to run using this method to see if I need a new one or a fuse box...... I already have some parts from Scotty for other "problems". I would rather not replace the motor if it is just the fuse box, and the motor showed no signs of failing before it quit (other than quitting.......)


Can you post a picture that shows what pins need to be either connected to power or ground? I don't want to fry any sensitive electronics in the speed control mechanism, but I want to narrow down my fault, so any diagnosis I can do with the motor still on the car will be helpful. I am not sure where the voltage from RL-7 goes into the motor to see if this is the fault....


I checked the ground connector in the little plastic connector that was mentioned in some earlier posts (TSB Bulletin No : 0008), tightened down the spades, still nothing.

I tried bypassing the controls and getting it to run off of 12 volts, but I must be doing something wrong (or dead motor...). There is a 4 pin connector with a red power connector just above it. I assume that 4 pin connector has to do with the variable speed circuitry. When I pull this 4 pin connector, there is no power to the red connector (and I am assuming to the motor).
How do I power the motor and bypass the variable speed part with the motor still connected?
There is a black (ground ?) plug on the other side of the motor, but this does not appear to be getting any voltage through it.
I appreciate the help, but it appears that electronics are my downfall!

Where does the relay and the variable speed all come into play?

Just tried one more thing......Relay in, I get good 12V to the red connector above the 4 pin connector, relay out I get tesbook symbol and 12V to that connector....Am I right to assume that the fuse box is working and that it is time for a blower motor?

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Bean Bean,

I have Rave, and have used it ALOT! This one is just killing me! I am pretty sure the motor is dead, so I left Scotty a message about seeing what he has.... I can use some help in pulling the darn thing out though! I can not figure out how to get the left hand blower out through the harness that is running in front of it! Any advice? I can not seem to make sense of Rave for the left hand side...

That is where I applied 12VDC, and NOTHING. I ordered the blower from Scotty
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