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Discussion Starter #1
First, I want to say thanks to everyone who posts here, I have been able to find the answers to all of my questions the past 5 years without having to register or post - so thank you

The car, 2000 P-38 4.0

Now, for the problem: The air conditioning system is not working anywhere near as good as it should! I have a left hand blower motor that is not running and my wife is complaining as we live in the Mojave desert
- Pollen filters are on order - I cleaned the ones in there until they arrive - they were filthy
-Relay 7 has been replaced after looking through the relay bin at Autozone (duralast 19899 fit perfectly)
--There appears to be only minor damage to the fuse box even though the relay was burned out.
-I checked with a test light, and there is voltage to the red wire that goes into the blower motor

Is it possible that I am not getting enough amps to run the blower through the line even though the test light goes on? it was an LED test light
Is there a way to tell if the blower motor is burnt out or if it is just a bad fuse box?

Any help on narrowing down the problem and fixing this would be appreciated. My wife loves the car and I just installed headrest monitors for the kids, so I would really like to get this fixed ASAP


Thanks
 

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I just replaced the LH blower motor in mine about 3 months ago. It started working intermittently, and making a growling like sound. I guessed the bearings were starting to go. The replacement motors are kinda pricey too. I lucked up and passed a scrap yard, when they were unloading a P38 with a wrecked front end, and you know I jumped on it. After handing over $75 the motor was mine. I will go ahead and warn you,...IT IS A PAIN IN THE @SS to replace it. You might be able to trouble shoot the wiring from under the dash at the motor, but if you're that far into it, just go a lil further and replace the blower.

I can give ya tips on how to do it if need be.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hi

There are speed control electronics built in the blower and these might be faulty. The red wire should always have 12 V DC on. The speed control system completes the path to earth with a supply voltage lower then the 12 V. If you remove all connectors, and connect spade connectors to the top connectors direct to the carbon brushes, the fan should run at full speed.

See the picture below from a fan with the plastic cover removed.



Regards

Jos
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I have the blower for sale on my web site and there on sale this month..

Scotty
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Yeah but you have them! I have so many parts I want to replace on my Rangi, just need the time.
Today I'm switching the wheels from the 18" Hurricanes back to the 16" wheels I have.
 

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Scotty said:
Today I'm switching the wheels from the 18" Hurricanes back to the 16" wheels I have.
Best move you could ever make, such a difference....

My RR is titanium silver so sprayed the rims a satin black and it looks good, just a thought
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Jos Geuze said:
Hi

There are speed control electronics built in the blower and these might be faulty. The red wire should always have 12 V DC on. The speed control system completes the path to earth with a supply voltage lower then the 12 V. If you remove all connectors, and connect spade connectors to the top connectors direct to the carbon brushes, the fan should run at full speed.

Regards

Jos

I will try and get the motor to run using this method to see if I need a new one or a fuse box...... I already have some parts from Scotty for other "problems". I would rather not replace the motor if it is just the fuse box, and the motor showed no signs of failing before it quit (other than quitting.......)

Jos,

Can you post a picture that shows what pins need to be either connected to power or ground? I don't want to fry any sensitive electronics in the speed control mechanism, but I want to narrow down my fault, so any diagnosis I can do with the motor still on the car will be helpful. I am not sure where the voltage from RL-7 goes into the motor to see if this is the fault....

Jeff
 

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I had the same issue a while ago, new blower and still wouldn't run, new relay didn't do it. the connector in the fuse-box wasn't clamping the relay pin hard enough to make a connection, I put a Z bend in the tabs on the relay- voila! blower runs....

Just put in a new fuse-box to cure the issue correctly... now on to the next problem...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK,

I checked the ground connector in the little plastic connector that was mentioned in some earlier posts (TSB Bulletin No : 0008), tightened down the spades, still nothing.

I tried bypassing the controls and getting it to run off of 12 volts, but I must be doing something wrong (or dead motor...). There is a 4 pin connector with a red power connector just above it. I assume that 4 pin connector has to do with the variable speed circuitry. When I pull this 4 pin connector, there is no power to the red connector (and I am assuming to the motor).
How do I power the motor and bypass the variable speed part with the motor still connected?
There is a black (ground ?) plug on the other side of the motor, but this does not appear to be getting any voltage through it.
I appreciate the help, but it appears that electronics are my downfall!

Where does the relay and the variable speed all come into play?

Just tried one more thing......Relay in, I get good 12V to the red connector above the 4 pin connector, relay out I get tesbook symbol and 12V to that connector....Am I right to assume that the fuse box is working and that it is time for a blower motor?

Jeff
 

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Your best bet for clarity will be to hit up Google and download RAVE. The electrical manual section has full schematics and full pin outs for each connector. It will make working on your own rig much easier.
 

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rrtoadhall said:
Your best bet for clarity will be to hit up Google and download RAVE. The electrical manual section has full schematics and full pin outs for each connector. It will make working on your own rig much easier.
I fully agree. I've discovered that to own a Rangie you need to have tools, patience, access to this forum, band-aids,...and most importantly a RAVE cd. Am I forgetting anything?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Bean Bean,

I have Rave, and have used it ALOT! This one is just killing me! I am pretty sure the motor is dead, so I left Scotty a message about seeing what he has.... I can use some help in pulling the darn thing out though! I can not figure out how to get the left hand blower out through the harness that is running in front of it! Any advice? I can not seem to make sense of Rave for the left hand side...

Jeff
 

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pyro said:
Bean Bean,

I have Rave, and have used it ALOT! This one is just killing me! I am pretty sure the motor is dead, so I left Scotty a message about seeing what he has.... I can use some help in pulling the darn thing out though! I can not figure out how to get the left hand blower out through the harness that is running in front of it! Any advice? I can not seem to make sense of Rave for the left hand side...

Jeff
Check your PM's Jeff.

Will
 

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Beanbean, you forgot about "the fermentation of fruit or grain"

To get mine out I ended up breaking the shaped plastic conduit for the wiring loom that blocked the exit by 1/4"... I think with more patience I could've got it out but didn't happen...
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hi

In the previous photo I posted a photo from the blower with the plastic cover removed. At the center of the photo at the top of the electro motor you see the conection of the power to the motor. This connection consist out of two connector tabs.



In the photo above the plate turned upside down with the connector tabs vissible. Connecting this two tabs to 12 VDC power source and the fan should turn on at full speed. If it doesn't the motor is burned or the carbon brushes do not make contact.

My suggestion is to get 12 VDC from the cigarette lighter socket and connect it up to the fan connection tabs. If the fan motor is ok then it will run. Next step is to check the electronics.

Regards

Jos
 

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Hi

One photo I took today. The red and black wire going in at the connector are the connections where you need to apply the 12 VDC as mentioned in my other post.



Regards

Jos
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I'm in the process of t shooting one of my blower motors. The passenger blower runs at high speed continuously. The drivers side works A-OK. I was checking the RAVE schematics and found there's a "High Speed Relay" that appears to be part of the blower motor assembly? Have you guys run across this device in your tear down of these blowers?
 

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Hi

Inside the blower casing are the speed electronics. According to the drawings from rave this electronics do have a relay incorporated. These components are inside the plastic casing. To get to them take out the fan motor and remove the plastic cover.

The cover has holes at the sides if I remember correctly 3 holes. Stick a screw driver in the hole and push on the rubber while pulling on the plastic housing. Hold it firmly and push the next rubber block and after a few attempts the plastic will come off.
After the plastic is removed you can clean the fan motor and inspect the carbon brushes.

If the blower is running at full speed it indicates a short to earth that bypasses the speed regulation electronics.

Good luck

Jos
 
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