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Discussion Starter #1
1998 4.6 hse new to me. Bought rr and trying to fix ac. Blower motors not working-
Replaced. Relays burned- Replaced. Still no air blowing. Fuse box a little cracked but not burnt. Am I missing a fuse or something? Any help trouble shooting would be great. What am I missing? Replacement blower motors bench tested fine.
 

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Check that you have power on the single thick wire going to one or other blower. If not, you fusebox is toasted internally and needs replacement. One thing to remember is that the HEVAC does a self test when you turn the ignition on. If you have a relay out, or anything else disconnected, the blowers will not start when you plug the relay in. You have to switch off and back on again.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Finally got on rr again. Both blower motors were suppose to be bench tested but I can’t seem to get them to spin with 12v power? Should vains spin freely or just spin about one rotation by hand? Also not getting power to large red wire. Maybe everything needs replacing? Fuse box is Burnt but doesn’t appear that bad ? Possible fried internally? Just hate to replace everything if not needed.
 

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Fuse box is Burnt but doesn’t appear that bad ? Possible fried internally?
If you can see it is burnt, it most definitely is internally fried. That's why the normal test is to sniff them, they can look fine on the outside but still be burnt internally.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Now I’m pulling my hair out. I went ahead and got a new RR fuse box and new RR relays. Installed. Book gone but still no air. Is there some kind of sequence to reboot HVAC?
1. Battery is weak jump started would this cause issue
2. Replacement Blower motors are used and was told bench tested (could both motors be bad) ( best way to test)
3. Am I missing something?
4. Would bad blend motor cause issue?
5. Head unit goes to auto but when I go to manual fan knob only gives me one bar?
What am I missing?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Also I just read where system has to do a 90 sec system check before blowers
Will come on ? If so I’m not sure if I ran truck that long?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Good job replacing the relays and the circuit board. It's not money wasted.

If there's power to the fans they'll come on once the keys to the 2nd position, maybe even the first... Turn the fan dial clockwise several turns perhaps. There's a fan speed progression bar on the display that should move.

The easiest blower motor to check for current on a LH drive P38 is the passenger side. I seem to remember there being a red and a black? wire of decent gauge. Stick your head waaaayyy down in the footwell of the passenger side and looking up towards where the overflow tank would be you should see it. I don't think you need to remove anything. If you want I can provide pictures but it will have to wait until tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok I started all over again. After testing everything- the blower motors I received are bad. I’m getting power to them but they don’t cut on. I bench tested and nothing. FYI bench test motors before you put them in if they are used. Just because someone says they were tested ..well...lesson learned.
 

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2008 Range Rover L322 HSE
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I have had relays go bad in the past. I have motors go bad and fuse boxes. I no longer have my p38’s. Now driving a L322.
motors should spin with 12v applied to them out of the car
 
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