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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I’m having A hard time diagnosing the problem with my driver side(LHD) Blower motor, I replaced the relay because it was burned, checked fuses they were good, cleaned out pollen filter’s, and I removed the blower motor and cleaned the brushes And electric panel on the motor, and I also plugged the blower motor in on the passenger side and it is fully operational. After I reinstalled the motor I ran a voltage check and I’m getting 12 V power but I’m not getting signal power, any advice would be much appreciated thanks.
 

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I’m having A hard time diagnosing the problem with my driver side(LHD) Blower motor, I replaced the relay because it was burned, checked fuses they were good, cleaned out pollen filter’s, and I removed the blower motor and cleaned the brushes And electric panel on the motor, and I also plugged the blower motor in on the passenger side and it is fully operational.
On many vehicles, the blower motor resistor, which comes as a module that connects to an electrical wire and is mounted near the blower motor, is accessible by removing the glove box or checking under the dashboard. On others it’s behind the dashboard, and part of the dashboard may have to be disassembled to reach it.
 

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On many lesser vehicles yes, only a P38 doesn't have anything as crude as a blower motor resistor. Power is supplied to the blower via an electronic speed controller mounted on the back of the motor housing. A PWM signal is supplied to the controller from the HEVAC which regulates the blower speed. Check the connections on the HEVAC and give them a squirt of contact cleaner as a starting point.
 

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Fuse Box??
A burnt relay is indicative of more problems. Easy job to replace with new as these things are pron to failure.
 

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If he's got 12V on the main power feed to the blower, then that suggests the fusebox is OK (or OK ish if its had a burnt relay in it), although if it has a high resitance connection it's possible it will read 12V with no load and drop to not a lot once it tries to draw current. Considering the blowers draw the best part of 10A, it won't need much resistance.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for your replies, I ended up disassembling the fuse box and it was severely burned all the way through both green boards, I attempted to solder repair but my efforts were futile. I replaced the fuse box along with a few more questionable relays (for peace of mind) and all is well, every thing is fully operational and I’ve got hurricane force winds coming out of the vents for the first time in 5 years of owning the rover! Next I’m going to repair the digitizer on the HVAC control unit. Thanks again for the replies much appreciated.
 

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If you have a meter, see if your evap motor is grounded. Check ohms, each leg to ground, should read OL, if you are reading ohms it's most likely grounded. If it's not grounded, it could be your tstat, you could switch the normally open/normally closed wire and see if the motor runs. If it runs, it could be a bad relay or a bad tstat. It's kinda hard to troubleshoot over reddit but those are the few things I would do. If you get that far let me know and I'll walk you through it further.
 

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But he got it sorted 6 months ago by replacing a burnt out fusebox? Your suggestions make no sense either.
 
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