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Int it bloody typical! hottest part of the year so far and the aircon compressor has packed up!

When my aircon guy was looking over it we noticed the compressor has virtually no resistance in it when spinning it over by hand!

And with this weather as well!
 

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:?: Unless he has manually powered the clutch it would spin freely.
 

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No we didnt but the bit that spins freely is the pulley, we was turning the actually drive plate on the front!! this was doing virtually nothing, it could be spun over easily with one finger! apparently the pressure readings we was getting fit with a weak compressor.

Managed to locate and purchase a replacement compressor for £40.....regas is free for me so not to bad overhaul..
 

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Have you checked to see if the power supply is making it past the compressor plug because I found that when mine was'nt working I had the same symptoms but the plug had corrosion in it and I just cut the plug out and soldered the joint and now it's fixed. You say it was the first hot day of the year so maybe the plug got fouled over the winter. worth a try for a cheap and easy fix. :think: Good luck.
 

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Its definately the compressor not compressing! i have the required voltage at the coil, i had a problem with lack of voltage to the coil behind the pulley, there is a Land Rover service bulitin concerning this and an additional loom to the compressor and relay for the fuse box to rectify the problem which i did some time back, also i removed a shim from behind the compressor drive plate to take up some space caused when it was slipping!
Its been working fine ever since, the plate is spinning well BUT the compressor isnt pumping! hence the high pressures in the system!

I managed to get me a replacement compressor for £40....and the regas is free (for me) so it could be a lot worse!
 

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Well I've had the "works from cold but not from hot" problem. Thanks to this forum I've found the cabin temp themistor covered in 15 yrs worth of dust and fluff. Cleaned that off and it worked a bit better.

Then discovered the clutch spacing issue, removed the clutch plate, took out the shim and it now seems to work better and for longer.

When I removed the shim I noticed the back face, the face that engages the pulley on the compressor, is deeply rutted.

Question; is this normal or a sign of excessive wear. Should it be a uniform thickness and a flat surface?

then at the same time I too noticed that I could spin the compressor easily in either direction, no resistance at all. Also noticed a light metalic tinkling sound when I did so.

Question; Is that normal? Should there be resistance? Should you hear a tinkling metal sound?

When running with clutch engaged the flow compressor flow pipe is very cold and the return pipe almost too hot to touch.
Question; Is it correct that the return pipe shoul dbe so hot?

As ever many thanks to those experienced enough to answer the questions above.
Paul Cundy
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Mine is now fixed, it was vacced out and regassed last night and i have today moddified the way the cooling fan comes on, as i have removed my viscous fan the evaprorator strugles when engine isnt hot and the two additional front mounted fans kick in but a little late! the engine cooling fan now comes on when temp sensor in bottom hose notices the rad performance isnt up to scratch, OR the air con clutch is engaged! its works a treat!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
cunpr said:
Well I've had the "works from cold but not from hot" problem. Thanks to this forum I've found the cabin temp themistor covered in 15 yrs worth of dust and fluff. Cleaned that off and it worked a bit better.

Then discovered the clutch spacing issue, removed the clutch plate, took out the shim and it now seems to work better and for longer.

When I removed the shim I noticed the back face, the face that engages the pulley on the compressor, is deeply rutted.

Question; is this normal or a sign of excessive wear. Should it be a uniform thickness and a flat surface?

then at the same time I too noticed that I could spin the compressor easily in either direction, no resistance at all. Also noticed a light metalic tinkling sound when I did so.

Question; Is that normal? Should there be resistance? Should you hear a tinkling metal sound?

When running with clutch engaged the flow compressor flow pipe is very cold and the return pipe almost too hot to touch.
Question; Is it correct that the return pipe shoul dbe so hot?

As ever many thanks to those experienced enough to answer the questions above.
Paul Cundy
If the contact faces of the clutch are scored its where ite been slipping, maybe due to lack of voltage at the clutch coil, check voltage and hope for more than 11 (iirc) also i think the gap should be between 0.3 to 0.8 mm

If youer compressor is rattling when turned i think theres a good chance its damaged!

One pipe very hot and one cold, dropping with condensation is how its meant to be, if its working ok i wouldnt worry about the rattling, sort the clutch issue and relax
 

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redrange said:
cunpr said:
Well I've had the "works from cold but not from hot" problem. Thanks to this forum I've found the cabin temp themistor covered in 15 yrs worth of dust and fluff. Cleaned that off and it worked a bit better.

Then discovered the clutch spacing issue, removed the clutch plate, took out the shim and it now seems to work better and for longer.

When I removed the shim I noticed the back face, the face that engages the pulley on the compressor, is deeply rutted.

Question; is this normal or a sign of excessive wear. Should it be a uniform thickness and a flat surface?

then at the same time I too noticed that I could spin the compressor easily in either direction, no resistance at all. Also noticed a light metalic tinkling sound when I did so.

Question; Is that normal? Should there be resistance? Should you hear a tinkling metal sound?

When running with clutch engaged the flow compressor flow pipe is very cold and the return pipe almost too hot to touch.
Question; Is it correct that the return pipe shoul dbe so hot?

As ever many thanks to those experienced enough to answer the questions above.
Paul Cundy
If the contact faces of the clutch are scored its where ite been slipping, maybe due to lack of voltage at the clutch coil, check voltage and hope for more than 11 (iirc) also i think the gap should be between 0.3 to 0.8 mm

If youer compressor is rattling when turned i think theres a good chance its damaged!

One pipe very hot and one cold, dropping with condensation is how its meant to be, if its working ok i wouldnt worry about the rattling, sort the clutch issue and relax
Thanks, yes it is now working so I'm going to leave alone. I'll try to track down the compressor manufacturer and see if I can get a new clutch plate.
Regards
Paul C
 
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