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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
I've lashed out and bought a group of three blend motors to replace the two duds in my car. From reading the sticky etc. I am working on the understanding that I need to remove the centre console piece of plastic and the piece of plastic under the steering wheel and then get into the duct feeding the rear with a hacksaw blade to get access to the blend motor. Once I have access, cut the wires and fit the new motor.

I'm assuming a two-three hour job. Is that right or am I being hopelessly optimistic?

cheers

PS 1998 4.6

someone has removed the ability for me to update my tagline, any hints on this?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #2
Looks like I sorted the tagline thing...
 

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Premium Member
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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455 Posts
If you have to do them on both sides, do the heater orings as well.
Not being too optimistic I would guess you might need 4 hours if you have never done it before. The biggest fun is getting to the little screws holding the motors.
I use a tiny ratchet with a Phillips bit, that is a real time saver



Enviado desde mi SM-A720F mediante Tapatalk
 

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As your car will be RHD, taking the instrument cluster out should allow you to get to them through the hole left by that. I've not had to cut the rear duct to get to blend motors, although getting to the O rings is a different matter. As Annette says, small ratchet screwdriver with a No 2 Pozidrive bit (Philips is something completely different).
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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107 Posts
Don’t you think it might be worth the effort to remove the dash and then remove the whole heater box and service it? The flaps might be hard to move for the servo motors maybe.


I don’t regret doing that in February. It took a weekend including some optional modifications. Also I had lots of things sorted out underneath the dash at the same time.

The guide at PaulP38A.com is spot on.
http://paulp38a.com/range-rover-p38/dash-removal/
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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496 Posts
I have done this job . if I was to do it again I would remove instrument panel (speedo) to get access to the distribution and temp motors use small screw driver to remove distribution motor (top one) and try and move the flaps in the heater box , if you can not move these easily (very easily flick of the finger you have to remove the heater box to fix it . their is only one way that's going to happen. if you remove heater box you have to do o rings(Viton o rings ) on heater box also check fans (brushes bearings etc) as you may not want to go there again.use paulp38a method , I removed the outer switches on steering column easier than removing the bottom of the dash
 

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2000 P38
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I’m with kretslop on pulling the entire dash out and doing the blend motors that way. You will probably find that the guide vanes for air flow direction are cracked from age allowing air to leak out when.
Its obviously a lengthier process but having done the blend motors using the hack sawing method and the dash removal one, I would do the dash out. It’s not that difficult.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #8
I made a start at accessing the recirc servo using a method I found on aulro but I reckoned it was going to end in tears so I went the dash removal approach. Relatively straight forward following paulP38A instructions above.

Unfortunately, both servos worked fine when removed and tested, so I hot wired the recirc motor so I can cycle it using a 6V battery, and took a punt on replacing the blend servo as there are relays etc inside which I thought might be a problem.

I managed to break the wiper stalk while putting the dash back in, just to round out my day, and then when I got it all back together the drivers side cycled from full cold to full hot, which is only fair as it blew cold air all winter and summer is on the way. I fiddled with the nanocom and got it back to cold and then fiddled some more and now it is back to hot. Does anyone know if the prince of darkness owns shares in valeo?

Next step is to buy a second hand ECU and see if that makes a difference. Otherwise I am going to have to pull the dash apart again and hotwire the servo.

PS: When I put it back together the radio wasn't working, so I pulled it out and disconnected the couplers and then all the door handles went clunk, uh oh, must have triggered the immobiliser as no starter motor. False alarm coupled with paranoia from reading too many horror stories about cars locking down, someone had put the transmission in first to make room to get the radio out and when I find that bloke I am going to punch him in the nose.
 
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