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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

My driver side blend motor gave up this winter - blowing only cold air on the driver side (LHD).

So when I now got the car back from my welder with new floor and canals, it was time to pick this task up again while all the dash trim and more already was out.

So, got all three out this night (**** what a job:p).
But when I took away trim pieces I saw that hands have been in here before. Not quite sure, but I suspect that the blend motors have been replaced earlier. Or maybe heater core have been replaced. Heater core looked tight and good.

Took a picture of my blend motors, is this a later or earlier model you think? I opened up the faulty one, but couldnt see any obvious defects.

And - how long do these tend to last? General speaking. 3, 5, 10 years?
Anyway - I will buy a set of three new ones and replace all.

While I am in there - any other operations I should prioritize? Any lubrication on the flaps controlledby the blend motors?

Any blend motors I should choose over the other?

Many thanks!

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they look standard motors, get a 9v battery and test them to see if they work . the motors are 7.2v so don't over drive them or they will brake, also cheak that the potentometer is also working. look at the heater box itself and see if it's tight. try moving the big white wheel on the side of the heater box, it should move easy if its tight you have to remove the box and modify it from the inside by sanding the areas for clearance, the white wheel can also be tight . check the other flaps the same . if done properly the flaps will move with the flick of a finger, also the shaft that drives the flaps can also fall out so look for that to
PS the motors are very expensive, if they work they are fine and if they don't, bye a second hand one and fix them if you can. that's my 2 cents worth, hope it helps.
 

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The one with the label has been replaced at some time in the past, the P on the end of the part number shows that. I know some owners in the US have had problems with gear teeth breaking but I suspect that is due to the higher temperatures some of them get. Usual fault is the feedback pot gets dirty so the HEVAC doesn't know what position it is in so stops trying to move it. I have replaced the feedback pots in the past and could give you the part number (there is another thread that gives a part number but it is incorrect, the hole for the spindle is 90 degrees out) but as I'm about 1,100 miles away form home at the moment, can't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi guys and thanks for the reply.

I tested all motors with 9V battery. 2 dead and 1 moving slightly, but very sketchy too. So guess I will put 3 new ones in.

The levers they operate moved easy enough except the white one you mentioned here. Marked with red circle in picture below. I must use some force to move it back and forth. Guess thats what kills the motor aswell. The lever marked with yellow circle moves easy. On the driver side aswell (LHD).

So - dash out to clean and modify the heater box then:ROFLMAO:?

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So - dash out to clean and modify the heater box then:ROFLMAO:?
Yes !! and do the matrix o-rings or replace with Audi core while you have dash apart.

Hot tip: If you remove both the SRS fuses & relay, then you can re-connect HEVAC & Instruments & safely switch on to test the motors with dash removed. Instrument cluster is required to light up the HEVAC screen !! Also you can watch it calibrate. This way you cannot get SRS faults while airbag, etc. are disconnected..
 

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The white one is driven by the distribution motor and is always stiff, if you look at the picture it is actually moving 3 flaps. See if your 9V battery can move it from one end of the travel from the other, you'll be surprised how much torque those motors can produce with the gearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all good tips and replies (y) !

I have now removed the dash completely and reviewed the heaterbox. See photos below. The white wheel is movable indeed, but I feel it is a certain resistant here, must use some force. Is this normal or should I open up the box and try to make som adjustment to make it go lighter?

As for the heater matrix, I took some photos here aswell. It looks solid, might have been replaced earlier also. Could seem that way, but I dont know. Anyway, when inspecting further, it looked like there have been a leak here once - see picture.

But as you mentioned, best to replace it to be on the safe side with a Audi matrix? Not looking forward to have to do this job again in the near future:ROFLMAO:.
Pipes fits on those matrix without modifications?
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Any special Audi Heater matrix I should buy?

Found these ones with a couple of dealers in Norway:



Maybe this one from Nissens is better option:

 

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I know a lot of people like to fit the Audi matrix which has stubs that you fit hoses to so you either have to cut down the existing pipes and remove them completely and run hose right through the bulkhead, but I don't think it is worth it. The original O rings probably lasted around 12-15 years, if not more, so there is nothing to say replacements won't last just as long. Buy genuine LR ones (they are cheap enough), do the job and forget about it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I know a lot of people like to fit the Audi matrix which has stubs that you fit hoses to so you either have to cut down the existing pipes and remove them completely and run hose right through the bulkhead, but I don't think it is worth it. The original O rings probably lasted around 12-15 years, if not more, so there is nothing to say replacements won't last just as long. Buy genuine LR ones (they are cheap enough), do the job and forget about it.
I see your point. Question is then, shoud I even bother to change the o-rings when it is tight and no leaks now? When inspecting all looks good. But on the other hand, I have no idea if it has been changed earlier, so could ofcourse start leaking «tomorrow».

Any thoughts on the heater box? Leave it alone? Or lubricate? You can tell that the seal on top have seen better days. Is this available new?
 

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The correct core is a Nissens 90230.
Where can I buy one of these?
I just spent 20 minutes on Google searching using this part number and nothing comes up. This includes going to the Nissen home page in Denmark and searching by 90230 as well as other parts suppliers. Any sources in NA?
 

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I see your point. Question is then, shoud I even bother to change the o-rings when it is tight and no leaks now? When inspecting all looks good. But on the other hand, I have no idea if it has been changed earlier, so could ofcourse start leaking «tomorrow».

Any thoughts on the heater box? Leave it alone? Or lubricate? You can tell that the seal on top have seen better days. Is this available new?
I used Silicone oil on the spindles for the flaps on the distribution system and it moves nice and freely. You should be able to get it from a plumbing supplies company as it is used in plumbing to lubricate push fit pipe connections. While in there, it would be pointless to not change the O rings. The old ones will have started to harden so even if not leaking now could do soon enough. People heaving on the other end of the pipes under the bonnet to get hoses off will almost always cause a leak if the O rings are starting to get hard. Genuine O rings STC3262 - Land Rover O Ring, but it doesn't appear that the top seal is available as a separate part. I use door draught excluder that comes on a roll.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks Richard,

Any needs of splitting the heater box for lubrications? Or just put loob as you mention on open places to make it move more freely? Good tip with the door draught excluder - that will work(y).
 

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Shouldn't be, just put lube on the places where you can see the spindle (don't forget the other end as they go right through the box).
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Sorry, I got more questions on my plate..

When I will order new blend motors I am also going to need a new thermostat (any recommendations?) and as I now have gotten new canals welded in, I need new clips for the sill finnisher.
The ones I need is the ones attached to the finnisher and that are going to match the ones marked with yellow circle below. But I cant find these anywhere in the LRCAT. Or when searching the websites?
Maybe the picture is misleading and that there are 2 clips as 1? Im not quite sure here.

Any thoughts?

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Okay, so I cleaned the top of the heater box (also the underside of the dash) and lubricated the movable parts. Looks clean now and ready for new top seal when putting it back together.

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And back to the blend motors and the flaps in the heater box. All flaps moves very easily, except from one. Marked with a yellow circle on picture below. This is very hard to move back and forth with the plastic wheel. I can get some fingers down to the flap and help move them, but they are hard to move.

On the picture below you can see the left hand side and the right hand side. One thing I noticed on the inspection was that the plastic wheel did not seem to come out like the other ones. Maybe just stuck?
Any ideas how to make this move more freely? Or is it normal?

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And the last thing. On inspection I noticed that the upper flaps marked with blue arrows on picture below was not moving when manual moving the black plastic wheel on right hand side, marked with blue circle on picture below.
On the left hand side I have marked the oposite side of the «axlepin» with a blue circle. This was not pushed far enough in. When I did that the flaps where moving when I then turned the black plastic wheel again. Is this side missing something to push on the pin? Like a plastic cap like on the one below?
Any thoughts?

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Yes, a plastic cap to stop it working its way to the side and becoming disconnected is missing. It doesn't matter what you use, just something to keep it in place.
 
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