RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
293 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Wow, I just started to think how a great vehicle is my P38 and noticed I am losing oil. Since the engine has been rebuilt last year, and no visible signs of burning, I left the car on the same place for 6 days and saw this: 20131121_181307.jpg It is coming from the back of the engine, and my friend (an experienced LR Indy) told me that it is the back crankcase seal, cheap parts & expensive labor. He also advised me not to worry about it, because even if they stop the leak, it will began in a year. I think that he does not want to deal with it since it is a dirty job and the leak seems serious to me.. What to do you suggest, is there an easy way to change the main seal, or the engine has to come out?
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
1,851 Posts
Hi

For the rear seal normally they remove the gearbox to get to it and leave the engine inside the car.

If fitted properly the seal should last much longer then one year. I own my P38 since 2002 and the seal was changed just before I took delivery of the car. It lasted until I changed the engine in 2011.

Regards

Jos
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
I have the same leak in the rear seal which I don't have time to fix till next year. In the meantime I added a product called Blue Devil Rear Main Sealer. I expected it to be quite thick and viscous but it was quite the opposite. Clear and water like. It worked. It claims permanent fix which I'm not betting on. Just wanted to stop the leak until I can repair it. I believe the product swells the dried gaskets is how it works.
 

·
Registered
2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
·
883 Posts
I have the same leak in the rear seal which I don't have time to fix till next year. In the meantime I added a product called Blue Devil Rear Main Sealer. I expected it to be quite thick and viscous but it was quite the opposite. Clear and water like. It worked. It claims permanent fix which I'm not betting on. Just wanted to stop the leak until I can repair it. I believe the product swells the dried gaskets is how it works.
I used the same stuff after my engine swap, the RMS was dried out and pouring out oil like a sieve. So I tried it, since I can't afford the $900 cost of replacement. It worked, and I haven't had an issue since.
 

·
JACK'S GRANDAD
Joined
·
9,242 Posts
I have yet to have a RMS leak on a motor I rebuilt.

Martin
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
165 Posts
when you pull the gearbox verify that the camshaft plug is not the source of your leak. This is a very common location for leaks. If you have to replace the cam plug reinstall it using loctite sleeve retaining compound
 

·
Registered
2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
·
883 Posts

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
1,851 Posts
Hi

I used original seal bought from the Dealer and changed it on my replacement engine 2 and half years ago.

Regards

Jos
 

·
JACK'S GRANDAD
Joined
·
9,242 Posts

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
293 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Turned out to be the oil pan seal, changed it, leak-free again :)
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top