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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

I am looking to buy a used RR SC L322 to be used for offroading and other adventures. I am wondering what the best model year would be to get that will have the least issues? Heres where I'm at so far:

2010+ - Prob not a good idea due to timing chain issues.

2006 - No locking rear diff

With this is mind I am looking at a 2008 with 95k miles on it. Would this be a good all around one to get? It has the locker and seems to have a more reliable engine (Jag engine). Is that right or am I missing any show stoppers from this year?

Wish I could go for the 2010, I like the look better, but hey its for off road anyway.
 

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I have an 06 SC that I take in the mud and on trails often, and the only thing I wish I had was the rear locking diff. Although, without it I haven't had any issues. The times I have been stuck, a locked rear diff wouldn't have helped.

So 07-09 would be your best bet I guess.

If you find a really really good deal on an 06, it's still far more capable than most vehicles. But you don't have the terrain response system and the rear diff lock.



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Discussion Starter #3
Ok great, helpful, and stay away from 2010-2012 right? May as well not mess with that engine.

Also, are there any thoughts on using Bridgestone k02s with an 08 SC?
 

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WHole heartedly agree with btm and 07-09. Avoid the 06 model year as it is a hodge podge of BMW and Ford and gets confused in the communications between various systems. There are also some parts that are one year only. ICE is difficult at best to upgrade. 07 was the first full fledged Ford year followed through 3 very reliable years.

However, do not fully dismiss the 10 or 12 models. If you happen to see a stunning example it has three possibilities... did not fall under the service bulletin VIN range, DID fall in the VIN range, but has had the repairs completed OR does fall in the VIN range and has been ignored. Early 10s and later 12's are not an issue. If you find one in the VIN range that has had the upgraded parts installed you are beginning with a clean slate.

Also make sure the SC has been serviced.
 

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My wife and I were in the same boat at you - looking for something that would serve for DD duty and some off road trails. We just picked up a 70K mile MY2011 SC. Regardless of the common timing chain issue, the updates are a nice improvement including the locker. We also purchased a 3yr/36k mile full coverage warranty just in case the engine issue arises.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the advice, very helpful. Is there somewhere I can get the vin range affected? I did find a nice 2010 but it's definitely concerning that it could blow up.
 

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Range Rover (LM)
Model Year: 2010-2012
VIN: AA306630-CA393639

MARKETS:NAS

CONDITION SUMMARY:Situation: A ‘rattle’ / ‘click’ noise may be heard from the front of the engine. The noise may be morepronounced when the engine is at idle speed.

Cause: This may be caused by wear on the timing chain lever, resulting in reduced tension on the timing chain.Action: Should a customer express this concern, follow the Service Instruction outlined below.

PARTS:
LR051008 Timing chain tensioner Quantity: 2
LR051013 Timing chain tensioner lever Quantity: 2

Timing chain tensioners and tensioner levers -Renew - Range Rover (L322) 5.0L V8 NA, 5.0L V8SC12.65.89.34 9.2 7 LR051013
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks so much. Is there any word from Land Rover on a mass recall for this issue? Many of these cars are getting to higher mileage and they could have a pending PR disaster on their hands, especially since they are trying to dispel reliability sentiments. Since the main cost of this is labor, it seems like it'd make sense to just fix everyones engines. Has anyone convinced them to repair it for free? Or are there any lifehacks around this like a guy on the other side of town who will do it for $1500 or something like that?
 

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Absolutely no way there will be a recall on it, the guides were redesigned along with the tensioner and so no more problems for 2013+. New engines have new engine design faults, these are extremely resilient engines otherwise. Think of the 02-05 M62tu, they had the failures and BMW still sold tons, nevermind the other M62 variants. They're great engines once fixed. Though, I believe I saw someone on Jaguar Forums that Jaguar helped him with the repair costs, but not entirely.

My L320's 5.0 was rebuilt by Land Rover under their extended warranty at 120k~ miles. There was barely a tapping sound, but warrantied for $7700 or somewhere along those figures. My close friend who bought it still owns it and it has likely 140k on it this point and no other issues.

There was this, but I laughed it off for my own reasons..plus it suonds like the guy is just biased against the 5.0 http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/13-general-chatter/255697-suit-against-jlr-na-regarding-5-0l-engine-failure.html
 

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I have a 2010 S/C, and overall it has been fairly reliable for what it is. I did bite the bullet and do the timing chain guides, and litterally everything else that had to come off (all seals, gaskets, pumps, all injectors, rebuild S/C, etc etc) so it would be reliable for another 100k+ It does so well off-road.

The only real problems I have had: wiper motor park sensor bad - replace wiper motor/trans (cheap and easy), weak A/C compressor, Front bags leaked - expensive due to magnetic ride (1100 each..). The rest has more or less been maintenance. For a do-everything vehicle, and the facelifted design of the 2010+, you can't beat it for the price. Frankly, the bags and A/C compressor are maintenance issues, as they are wearables.

Just budget the cost to fix it in your purchase, unless you have proof otherwise. With S/C, no real mileage penalty from N/A, and you get locking rear diff standard. Does wonders off-road, and I can pull my Airstream with power to spare.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have a 2010 S/C, and overall it has been fairly reliable for what it is. I did bite the bullet and do the timing chain guides, and litterally everything else that had to come off (all seals, gaskets, pumps, all injectors, rebuild S/C, etc etc) so it would be reliable for another 100k+ It does so well off-road.

The only real problems I have had: wiper motor park sensor bad - replace wiper motor/trans (cheap and easy), weak A/C compressor, Front bags leaked - expensive due to magnetic ride (1100 each..). The rest has more or less been maintenance. For a do-everything vehicle, and the facelifted design of the 2010+, you can't beat it for the price. Frankly, the bags and A/C compressor are maintenance issues, as they are wearables.

Just budget the cost to fix it in your purchase, unless you have proof otherwise. With S/C, no real mileage penalty from N/A, and you get locking rear diff standard. Does wonders off-road, and I can pull my Airstream with power to spare.

Thanks for these thoughts. On the magnetic ride - would that interfere with a coilover conversion at all? Is the SC version a bad idea for an off road rig that I want to throw ATs on? I like the extra power, but seems like they are set up more for sporty driving..which is fine as long as it doesnt interfere too much with other things I want to do.

Theres a cherry 2010 SC I'm looking at for 25k....so tempted on that but scared of timing issues. Another 08 is priced around 16k....makes so much more sense to go with that one but I really like that 10....**** tough deision
 

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Thanks for these thoughts. On the magnetic ride - would that interfere with a coilover conversion at all? Is the SC version a bad idea for an off road rig that I want to throw ATs on? I like the extra power, but seems like they are set up more for sporty driving..which is fine as long as it doesnt interfere too much with other things I want to do.

Theres a cherry 2010 SC I'm looking at for 25k....so tempted on that but scared of timing issues. Another 08 is priced around 16k....makes so much more sense to go with that one but I really like that 10....**** tough deision
I am in a LR off-roading club.. I have 33" BFGs on mine. It's very capable off road.

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-range-rover-mark-iii-l322/217674-2010-rrsc-33-bfg-k02.html#post2131297
 

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2010-2012 would be just as good for offroading. maybe better if they changed the terrain response / traction control.

As far as reliability, the 06-09 is better. But hey, I have an 06, and want to get a 10-12 SC, or maybe an L405 2013-14. Depending on price.

And yeah, SC has no downsides vs non-sc for offroading.

Apparently there's a cm or mm's less front suspension travel on the SC, but I'm not even 100% sure on that.

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Discussion Starter #14
I am in a LR off-roading club.. I have 33" BFGs on mine. It's very capable off road.

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-range-rover-mark-iii-l322/217674-2010-rrsc-33-bfg-k02.html#post2131297

Oh cool, I am in San Diego and the truck I am looking at is in LA. It'd be great to check out your rig sometime. How tough are the trails you've been on? Any worries about the airbags blowing eventually? Thought about doing coilovers? Also...lots of questions..but the programmer you linked to in the other thread - does that allow you to essentially "lift" the vehicle by changing the ride height of the airbags?

Thanks for all the info!
 

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Interesting - I had an LR3 with the same screen, and even though I didn't have a locking rear diff, the 2 locks were displayed on the screen, the lower just never went to locked.
 
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