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Discussion Starter #1
alright fella's me again with my problem stricken rr, on driving it home the temp guage would go from half to full but never hitting the red (all this time the heaters and blowers were on max) and when i took it to a mates garage i took the expansion tank cap off, it did release a bit water and pressure but not rediculous amounts, and ever since it goes into the red once warmed up and doesnt like to cool down so i have to switch it off, there is no obvious signs of headgasket failure, i did notice that one side of the rad was cold and one side was hot but that was not always the case, sometimes it was all hot, when i removed the rad it was covered in the previous owners last 4x4 trip :twisted: so rad was taken out and flushed through but yet to refit as i snapped the little return pipe on the top and i have found a replacement and that will be fitted today, but when i refit it whats the best way to burp the system?
thanks in advance ppl
 

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I take no credit for this (other than finding the post)... just so happens that a clever fellow named Hoges over at aulro.com recently gave advice on this matter... Link http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/90386-replacing-tappets-cam-rockers-6.html#post1109829

[Start Hoges Advice]
When refilling radiator, "a" trick is to use your EAS bypass system as follows: pump front susp to max height, set rears at "access".
( This ensures all air is expelled to "highest point" and reduces airpockets deep in engine)

Make sure cap is removed from expansion tank.
Remove top hose from radiator then decant () the proper red stuff (coolant, that is!) into the hose until you see the level begin to rise in the expansion tank.
Refit top hose to radiator outlet and start the engine, letting it warm up at a fast idle.
Watch for the bypass hose from top of radiator to expansion tank begin to dribble freely into exp. tank.
Wait for bubbling to subside.
Top up expansion tank only to COLD level, replace cap and switch off engine.
Let engine cool...it will then draw required amount of coolant into system from exp. tank. Level drops.
Deflate front susp to "access" so that RR is level.
Check coolant level in exp tank, top up to COLD ...DON'T overfill.

The next time the engine reaches operating temp, any excess air will be expelled through overflow with minimal loss (hopefully) of coolant. check when cool again and top us if necessary. Job done.
[End Hoges Advice]
 

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Another cool use of the EAS. Love that :clap:
 

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In day's gone by several European Truck Manufactures used to fit Radiators which had a one way valve fitted into the base of the radiator to allow the cooling system to be filled from the bottom thus pushing any air out through the top as the system filled.
Wether it would be possible to say modify a rad drain plug or similar to be able to fill the P38 system in a similar way I don't know.

Might not even work or be worth the effort as I guess you would have to have some form of pump to force the water/antifreeze in under pressure as gravity alone may not be sufficient.

Not suggesting anybody does this or that it practical to do taking into account how often you actualy refill the cooling system. Just thinking out loud of way's it may be possible to fill the system to avoid potential air locks.

Cheers
 

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Col said:
In day's gone by several European Truck Manufactures used to fit Radiators which had a one way valve fitted into the base of the radiator to allow the cooling system to be filled from the bottom thus pushing any air out through the top as the system filled.
Wether it would be possible to say modify a rad drain plug or similar to be able to fill the P38 system in a similar way I don't know.

Might not even work or be worth the effort as I guess you would have to have some form of pump to force the water/antifreeze in under pressure as gravity alone may not be sufficient.

Not suggesting anybody does this or that it practical to do taking into account how often you actualy refill the cooling system. Just thinking out loud of way's it may be possible to fill the system to avoid potential air locks.

Cheers
That sounds like a good idea. If an on/off valve was fitted where the drain plug goes and a container of water/antifreeze was placed above the top of the radiator would that not fill the system by gravity?
 

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