Got those last two converter bolts out without removing the motor mounts. Just a fine tooth snap-on ratchet and deep well socket, along with a quarter inch drive ratchet.
Anyway, just the two oil cooler lines and the oil pressure switch remain and the engine can come out. I took the inspection cover off the bell housing and I imagine I just need to shove some wood up there to prevent the converter from coming with the engine?
Guys, I'm removing the sump from the new engine to change the gasket as a preventative measure. The manual says apply sealant STC-50550 "across the cylinder block to front cover joint" and "cylinder block to rear main bearing cap joints." Also, apply a globule of sealant to the ends of the cruciform seals."
First off, what sealant should I use since I don't have STC-50550 available? And can someone explain in simpler form where exactly the sealant goes?
Richard, how many bell housing bolts are actually used for the auto box? I count 14 “holes” on the new engine, but I can only find 13 bolts. I cannot get the engine and bell housing to separate, even by shaking the engine pretty violently. Is this normal? Aluminum locating dowels corroded?
Does the starter need to be physically removed to separate the engine and bell housing? I’ve got the motor mounts out and can raise or lower the engine, but no luck.
One on the LH side (opposite side to the starter) always hides and catches people out. Run your hand around and you'll feel it but you won't be able to see it. I've always taken the starter off too, not sure if the bolts go through into the bellhousing or not though so can't say if it is necessary. As said, it should separate easily with all bolts out.
I'm such a bonehead - with the motor mounts out and the engine lowered, there is indeed another bolt on the starter side, right near the top. I thought I got the two top tricky bolts out when in fact I got the one on the left side out but not the one on the right side. Instead, I got the next one down on the right side, and with the motor sitting in its mounts, that one was concealed.
Again, a question regarding where to apply the sealant on the oil sump...just the corners? Anywhere the gasket touches?
Looking at the instructions in RAVE it says to put it where the block joins the front cover and where the rear main bearing cap and seal are. Leave the rest of it up to the gasket doing it's job. Earlier GEMS motors have a pressed steel sump rather than the alloy one and they don't have a gasket, just sealant all around but more of it where they say to put it on the Thor.
Glad you found the hidden bolt, there's always one......
Also picked up a brand new battery, 925 cold cranking amps Napa AGM commercial battery, to replace the undersized 700CCA Exide. I believe the owner's manual calls for a minimum of 900CCA. This battery, along with the 150A alternator the Bosch engines have, should make for a robust electrical system although I never had a problem with my 1997 GEMS 4.0SE.
Well, I pulled the sump from the new engine and it doesn’t look wonderful. Quite a bunch of sludge in the bottom. Still most of the cross hatch in the liners. From the bottom, the cam looks OK. A small amount of slop in the timing chain, seems ok to me. Oil pickup screen seemed fine. Pulled it out for thorough cleaning, along with windage tray at the bottom. The area where the pickup tube goes into the timing cover is sludgy
The "new" replacement engine is ready to be reinstalled. Thoroughly cleaned everything I could without removing cylinder heads: valve covers and baffles, top of cylinder heads, removed rockers and pushrods for cleaning, oil sump, pickup tube, etc. New gaskets for everything. Fresh Bosch double platinum plugs, new wires, coils, fresh oil and filter, etc. The Range Rover should be back on the road by the end of this week, but it's mighty cold in my unheated shop! This morning was 11F (about -12C); I have a fuel burning salamander heater which helps a little.