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The originals lasted over 20 years so what makes you think they will fail in less time than that?
 

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If your car is pre-99, it will have the 6+1 connectors on the door latches. In which case you can buy brand new at very reasonable cost. The door latches are the same as used on the MG TF and have the same connectors (the only difference being the 1 wire connector has 2 wires in it, you just ignore the grey wire and only connect the black). As there are very few LHD MGs in the UK and Rimmer Brothers seem to have bought up the entire stock, they have them on discount, LH Front Door Latch Assembly - LH - LHD - Remote and Key Operation - FQJ102292PMA - Genuine MG Rover | Rimmer Bros, RH Front Door Latch Assembly - RH - LHD - Remote and Key Operation - FQJ102281PMA - Genuine MG Rover | Rimmer Bros. Even if your car is later and has a different connector, you can chop the connectors of your old one and the new one and solder your old connector onto the new latch, even the wire colours are the same. Rimmers have been supplying parts to EU for years so are well aware of the rules so you shouldn't be stung by too much, if any, tax.

They come with a cable to connect to the interior door handle but it is longer than the P38 one so you just use your original.
 
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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Just fit an ECU with immobilizer function disabled and call it a day. You will never have to deal with this problem again. "Immobilizer off" ECUs are now available for both GEMS and Bosch trucks, albeit from different vendors.
Who sells them for Bosch engined cars?
 

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Who sells them for Bosch engined cars?
Simon Doherty (he is Simon G. J. Doherty on facebook). I think I found him in one of the Land Rover engine swap groups on facebook. If you have trouble finding him PM me and I will connect you. I won't post his contact info on a public forum, I think it's bad practice.
 

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The originals lasted over 20 years so what makes you think they will fail in less time than that?
I don't know how long the originals lasted, nor do I know how many times they were replaced before me. Someone has been inside the driver's door before me and destroyed a bunch of things I had to repair.

I didn't buy a brand new Range Rover, I got mine in exchange for a box of motorcycle parts I didn't need, worth about US $350 on a good day. An ECU + BeCM + instrument cluster from eBay, a new driver's door latch and under hood fuse box was all that it needed to run. It also needed one caliper, all rotors and pads and a bunch of brake lines to stop. I threw in braided brake hoses and fabricated replacements for most of the brake lines using nickel copper line. I don't like fixes that are not permanent in nature and I don't cut corners when it comes to safety (brakes, steering, tires, etc.) Additionally I replaced the radiator, thermostat and all coolant hoses. I replaced ignition coils, but the truck probably didn't need them. The idiot previous owner connected the plug wires incorrectly. The P38 is my exclusive daily driver in winter and I often drive it in summer when I need the space. My supercharged rear wheel drive Jaguar is not a great winter car.

They don't make them like they used to. My 1962 Series IIa will outlast every Land Rover that rolled off the assembly line today.
 

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Simon Doherty (he is Simon G. J. Doherty on facebook). I think I found him in one of the Land Rover engine swap groups on facebook. If you have trouble finding him PM me and I will connect you. I won't post his contact info on a public forum, I think it's bad practice.
I understand the ECU can have this function removed, where it no longer requires the code from the BeCM.

But since the BeCM also controls the starter relay, how will you start the car of the BeCM does not send the signal?

Sent from my MAR-LX1M using Tapatalk
 

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I understand the ECU can have this function removed, where it no longer requires the code from the BeCM.

But since the BeCM also controls the starter relay, how will you start the car of the BeCM does not send the signal?

Sent from my MAR-LX1M using Tapatalk
It's a trivial wiring modification. Same as on any car with a carburator. Run a wire from the appropriate terminal of the ignition lock to the starter solenoid. Not unlike hotwiring a car.
 
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