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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So! One more time my engine is disabled and I’m stuck with the Alarm off every time I try and I can only sync the key fob when the engine is not Disabled…one more time.

well, reading and seeing videos for new ideas of how to fix this I found a website with something called BeCM sync Mate that you connect in the computer port of the truck and unlocked. My question is, have anybody try this stuff? Will this take me out of the disabled engine?

the think is, I love my Rover And i use it for off road like a lot of us amd I’m tired of this happening from time to time and I don’t wanna be next time in the middle of nowhere stuck…I’m close to surrender and let go my truck.

so, anybody?

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As far as I understand, this will only help sync the keyfob/BeCM/ECU, which means if your keyfob fails or your microswitches in the door latch do not received the right single when you input the EKA, the car will remain immobilized.

If you want to be completely safe, you need to send your BeCM or ECU where the the immobilizer is completely bypassed OR you can get the Mobi-Lize 4 and install it yourself.



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Did you have the engine disabled before and then manage to get it going? Follow the same procedure to get it going and then fix whatever is causing the problem, for example a bad driver's side door latch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
As far as I understand, this will only help sync the keyfob/BeCM/ECU, which means if your keyfob fails or your microswitches in the door latch do not received the right single when you input the EKA, the car will remain immobilized.

If you want to be completely safe, you need to send your BeCM or ECU where the the immobilizer is completely bypassed OR you can get the Mobi-Lize 4 and install it yourself.



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That Is the problem with this, you’re never 100% sure I’ll work. If it put me in the point where I can resync my key fob is a victory.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Did you have the engine disabled before and then manage to get it going? Follow the same procedure to get it going and then fix whatever is causing the problem, for example a bad driver's side door latch.
I have, around 5 times, but every time is just luck… I mean, one time connecting and disconnecting the battery. Other time going 2 times lock and 2 times unlock with the key. one time connecting a battery charger works, is just random things, and this time nothing have work for 1 week, so that is why when I saw this tool I got exited, if it works my problems are gone.
But I don’t know if it will make my engine disabled go away
 

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No, I am pretty sure that will not cancel the immobilizer. Also I do not believe you can re-sync the fob while the engine is immobilized. You need a diagnostic tool like a NanoCom or the EKA to get it going. There is a procedure where you connect up some of the door latch wires but I never got that to work when my 98 was immobilized by a bad door latch.

Does the instrument display say "engine immobilized" ? You are sure that is why it will not start?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No, I am pretty sure that will not cancel the immobilizer. Also I do not believe you can re-sync the fob while the engine is immobilized. You need a diagnostic tool like a NanoCom or the EKA to get it going. There is a procedure where you connect up some of the door latch wires but I never got that to work when my 98 was immobilized by a bad door latch.

Does the instrument display say "engine immobilized" ? You are sure that is why it will not start?
I send them a question to the website explaining to see what they answer.

The instrument display: "Engine Disabled" like i told you, everytime i use the key to open the truck instead of the remote the truck go to "engine disabled" and normally stay there till i do literally magic to "confuse" the system and let me turn it on. i know the door latch un the drivers is ok because i can sync the key without problem every time this happen.

Im sure that is why it doesnt start. my alarm go on everytime i try to turn it on and the engine disabled appears.
 

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I just went outside and unlocked my 99 4.6 Bosch engined car with the key. I got the "engine disabled" message. Had to lock and unlock with the fob to start the car. I don't recall this happening with my 98 though. I used the key all the time (until the engine became disabled by faulty door latch).
 

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They are both working as they should. If you lock with the fob, and unlock with the key, the engine is immobilised so will need the EKA entering. If you lock with the key you can unlock with the key and it won't be, same if you lock with the key and unlock with the fob. The system was designed for the fob to always be used, the key in the lock is the same as the spare wheel, for use in emergencies only.
 
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They are both working as they should. If you lock with the fob, and unlock with the key, the engine is immobilised so will need the EKA entering. If you lock with the key you can unlock with the key and it won't be, same if you lock with the key and unlock with the fob. The system was designed for the fob to always be used, the key in the lock is the same as the spare wheel, for use in emergencies only.
Thanks for the clarification. I couldn't remember what " normal" was.
 

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Hello,

you write "Hold down Unlock, turn clockwise, WAIT.x"

Do you mean insert the key into the driver side door key lock and turn the key and wait?

"Hold down" = hold on the clockwise position?

A video showing how to do this would be extremely helpful.



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It looks to me like an unsynced key won't be recognised as valid for EKA entry via the lock or for pressing the Unlock button while it's in the steering wheel keyway. That makes sense, because it prevents entry of the EKA using a lock pick.
Unsynced key can still enter the EKA as it is purely a mechanical thing (so can be done with just a key blade rather than a fob). That's the whole reason for it. Car battery goes flat, or you change the battery in the fob, it loses sync. Enter the EKA and then you can start the car and sync the fob.

To sync a key, turn the key to Lock, hold it turned, press and hold the Lock button on the fob (I've only ever needed to do it until the LED flashes quickly), release the button on the fob, return the key to centre. Then repeat only turning the key to Unlock and pressing the unlock button on the fob.
 

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I've made some edits in a way I understand. Confirm if correct.

To sync a key(FOB):

1. Turn the key to Lock, hold it turned, (WHILE AT THE SAME TIME) maintain the lock button on the fob pressed.

2. ( THEN) release the button on the fob.

3. Return the key to centre.

4. Repeat only turning the key to Unlock and pressing the unlock button on the fob.

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Point 1, only on a LHD car, Lock is anti-clockwise on a RHD car and it's press and keep pressed for the button on the fob, "continually pressing" could make someone think you mean press, release, press, release, etc. You need to keep it pressed until the LED starts to flash faster than normal.
 

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Point 1, only on a LHD car, Lock is anti-clockwise on a RHD car and it's press and keep pressed for the button on the fob, "continually pressing" could make someone think you mean press, release, press, release, etc. You need to keep it pressed until the LED starts to flash faster than normal.
I have edited it.

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Just fit an ECU with immobilizer function disabled and call it a day. You will never have to deal with this problem again. "Immobilizer off" ECUs are now available for both GEMS and Bosch trucks, albeit from different vendors.
 

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Replacing worn out door latches and getting a remote refurbished is cheaper than a disabled ECU, then you'll never have to deal with the problem again......
 
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As Marty's service for door latch refurbishment seems to be paused for now, where do you recommend to send the door latch to get repaired?

New seems to cost 258£ (with VAT) and more...

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Replacing worn out door latches and getting a remote refurbished is cheaper than a disabled ECU, then you'll never have to deal with the problem again......
Until either the remote or the door latch or both of them fail again. Which they eventually will.
 
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