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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
I have recently purchased a 1996 4.6HSE (UK) car, which has spent the last 3 years sat in a field. It’s a CVC car (Land Rover owned) so is worth trying to rescue

On arrival, the delivery driver connected the battery, turned the key to release the steering lock and shut the door – not surprisingly, it promptly locked itself, with the (only) key in the ignition.

I have managed to get into the car without breaking anything and as it wasn’t superlocked, the doors are now open.

So now we’re onto EKA issues – the documentation that came with the car is very confusing and she clearly has history - I have...


  • The V5 (UK government registration document), with a VIN that matches the car. A check at the DVLA has come back positive – she’s not registered as stolen or scrapped.
  • A green handbook complete with the credit card with an EKA, but referencing a different VIN (also a 1996 car)
  • A Land Rover 1996 European warranty booklet, signed and completed by the dealer with the right VIN, but referencing a different licence plate
  • Two scrappy bits of paper with the right VIN handwritten on, and a different EKA code

Here’s where I’m at:

  • I now have a battery at around 12.5 volts – not great, but good enough for now
  • At key in PosII, we have lights, horn, HEVAC etc., The ABS pump runs ok, and the EAS is ticking when the door is closed, so I can only assume the functional part of the BeCM is working more or less as it should be.
  • The normal “Engine disabled - Press remote or enter key code” message pops up on the message centre if I attempt to start it.
  • There is no central locking functioning at present – the key only locks/un-locks the drivers’ door
  • The remote flashes when the buttons are pressed, but as you’d expect, there is no response from the car.
  • When I lock it on the key, I get a single flash from the indicators, and the LED on the dashes flashes quickly for a few seconds, and then settles to a slower rhythm. When I unlock, there is no flash from the indicators.
So, some questions…

  • Is there any way of ascertaining if the BeCM has been swopped during its life? – the key fits the ignition, door lock and glove box, and I cannot tell if the locks have been swopped or not (no obvious marks/scratches etc.) the binnacle mileage ties up with the MOT history, so that’s less likely to have been changed.
  • As I have multiple EKA codes in the paperwork, is there any way of ascertaining which is the correct one?
I have a good drivers’ door lock in the spares bin (as you do) so if I know the code, I can begin the process of bringing her back to life…
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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24 Posts
It is possible to open the BeCM, and check stored codes like eka and others, you just need to find somebody in your area capable. In the worst case also possible to get a spare BeCM and set up for your car. The only thing you will miss, is the key fob code, so remote will not work.
But if hou have some EKAs, let try to unlock the vehicle first, ghis is the easyest way. Just be aware, that you do need fully working door locks. In case of any doubt replace it and you will save lot of time. You eill also need it later - door lock malfunction creates 90% of troubles with door locking and engine starting ( many times not recognized! ). Dont forget, even if you switch off alarm in BeCM, if door lock is faulty, the BeCM is thinking the car is locked and will prevent from start.
So first check and repair locks, try the EKAs, if not working, try to find somebody with diagnostic equipment, check if immo code is correct.
First you need to ensure BeCM is ok, but for that you need fully working locks as well.

If you totally lost, you can send me the BeCM to unlock, but I am almost sure you have triuble due your faulty door lock

Sent from my Lenovo A5000 using Tapatalk
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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41 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for that

In the UK, to purchase a second key from Land Rover you have to prove ownership of the vehicle - when you buy a different BeCM, it's very unlikely you'll also receive the cars original registration documents, so it's impossible to "own" the VIN of the donor vehicle - this means when a key is lost or goes faulty, buying a new one that works is next to impossible.

My aim is to find out what I've got, then go from there - maybe re-writing the current BeCM to the current vehicle VIN (if its not matching) assuming it can be done?
Unfortunately my Faultmate MSV II is VIN locked, so will only communicate with my other '38 :-(

I will try the door lock fix 1st (I bought new genuine ones for my off roader '38 two years ago and ALL my problems immediately disappeared)

Cheers
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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24 Posts
With the second BeCM I mentioned to set up incl. your original VIN, so I didn't mentioned to "own" the VIN of the donor. Basically it is a part swap, so there is no security or legal issue.
This kind of setup is possible even "off shore", based on few basic information like vin, engine type, transmission, mileage, etc. Then you can choose a new EKA. The only thing you would miss are fob code and immo code. Immo would be necessary to sync after the swap in car with diag, Fob code should be readed from old unit. So basically if your old unit is an unusable scrap, you can get exchange unit for cheap (only remote would not work).
But your unit is working, so still possible to read out your EKA as well, but let check the locks and possibly one of EKAs will work.

Sent from my Lenovo A5000 using Tapatalk
 

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Administrator
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27,800 Posts
Huh? Why, when having a BeCM set up as a spare, would you miss out on the key fob codes? A properly cloned Becm is identical in information so it can be swapped with no loss or change in info. In no way do you need to own the donor rig that a spare BeCM comes from.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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you right. I just wanted to say, even if your original BeCM is totally destroyed (burned and so not readable, as example), it is always possible to setup a spare one - so no need for panic at all. It”s only the key fob code you can”t reproduce without bar code.
 

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Administrator
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Well the idea of a clone is to have it done prior to any catastrophe or failure and have the spare on the shelf. Or reading and saving your BeCM settings in file on your computer. That way you can just send the screen shot off to a BeCM specialist to create a clone... you still have your key fob codes in both circumstances. There is no need to reproduce it because you have a record of it.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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41 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Hi

Perhaps I've not been too clear - in the UK, its really common for folk to give up on their BeCM (rather than sort it) and just buy a BeCM, driver door handle and key from a scrap yard (where they are plentiful) - nail it into the car and carry on - generally the old BeCM gets thrown in the bin - you guys in the US have to bear in mind that people who mend a BeCM in the UK are rare and expensive, especially compared to the value of the vehicle - you guys are lucky - I think you have much better knowledge and opportunities to sort them in the US? - in the UK, a second hand unit with key etc. can be had for £150 - it's the easy way to keep the car going...

Must make it clear though, this is not something I have done, or intend to do! :wink:

What I'm trying to determine if this has already happened to mine, and if there is anyway of telling, especially as the paperwork that came with it is so confusing - to add a car to my Faultmate licence, Blackbox have told me they need the VIN - if the BeCM has been changed I will waste a lot of money, as the vehicle VIN wont match the BeCM, and the new Faultmate licence won't read it

cheers
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,198 Posts
Well...

I'm in the UK (Swindon) and have the tools to do BECM unlocking, cloning, whatever to get it working again... SHOULD it be necessary, which there's a fair chance it won't!

First things first... take the door card off and check the microswitches in the door latch, as per my test sheet which is downloadable from the 'Sticky' posts here in the P38 forum.

Second, if the latch tests as faulty, then replace it with the known working one. There's no point messing around with EKA codes or anything else until you know that the latch is working and the EKA can be transmitted to the BECM properly.

If the latch tests as OK, then I'd go about trying the EKA code(s) that you have written down.. I'd firstly go with the one which is for the VIN of the vehicle. If that works, then success!

If that doesn't work, then try any/other EKA codes you may have. Remember that you get 3 tries before KEYCODE LOCKOUT and then the timeout period for this to go away. Do 2 attempts, and then open/close the drivers door. It will reset the lockout counter... then try 2 more attempts and repeat.

If you still get nowhere, then as mentioned, I have the tools to be able to read the BECM CPU and reset any lockouts, retrieve the stored data, including the EKA. But at this point, you don't really have anything to lose by trying the codes that you have (once you know the door latch is good!

In regard to some of your observations - this all sounds normal... Drivers door only will unlock with key in the door if it is expecting EKA. Fobs might flash, but won't do anything until resynced to the vehicle - which won't be possible until the EKA is input and the vehicle is disarmed.
Indicators flashing when locking is normal - it is showing that the alarm is arming. It won't necessarily flash on unlock, as the alarm isn't switching off, as it's expecting the EKA.

Good luck, and feel free to drop me a PM if you do want/need the BECM looking at.

Marty
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #11
Just to close this one off, apparently you cannot tell if a BeCM has been changed without diagnostics – there appears to be no physical indicators.

My issue has been solved courtesy of Marty, who I cannot thank enough – one reconditioned drivers’ door latch later and we have…

  • EKA accepted
  • Central locking working
  • Engine cranking (and trying to fire)
  • Remote synced and working
All electrical systems are working, which considering the car has been sat under a tree in a field for 3 years, is pretty amazing – even the HEVAC has no handbook symbol - who said a ’38 was temperamental?!

Still lots to do, even before I add an extra axle and turn her into a camper, but a pretty good start ;-)

Thanks to all for assistance
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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24 Posts
Great! As I said, it s a worth to check door locks in 90% cases. P38 is the greatest car, I have a L322 Supercharged too, but I am not going to sell my P38 Bosch

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